Triumphrat

vorpal · 07-18-2006

You all know the story, grab the front brake and pull, pull, pull until the brakes grab or you hit the handlebar. Been that way since I bought the bike. Bled, bled, no joy.

There are many ways to remedy this, from cheap (tie back the handle to the bar overnight) to expensive (new Galfer dual lines and bigger BMC). Before I committed to big bucks, I'd go for cheap.

Reading through old posts on the forums, I tried another trick. Pop off each brake caliper and remove the pads. Remove the brake master cylinder cap (put some shop towels around it) and using a thin, soft piece of wood, gently press the pistons into the caliper. Make sure they all move. Re-install caliper, pads and repeat on the other caliper. Clean up brake master cylinder, replace cap.

In my case, the brake difference was immediate. The handle moves in an inch and stops dead. I did this two days ago and it is still holding fine. I have to watch it, as I'm so used to grabbing a handful of brake that I'm jerking to a stop now!

2 thumbs up for the caliper squeeze method. Best of all, it's cheap and took 15 minutes.

I'll be heading to the Kootenay Rat Raid on Friday, hope to see some of you there!

Regards,

DaveM · 07-19-2006

Vorpal,
I never had the problem, one of the lucky ones.

I have never had my lever come back to the bars. I beleive it is all to do with some calipers not having the correct lube on the pistons or something similar dealt with here as you have found on numerous occasions previously. :razz:

Davem

Stlakid · 07-19-2006

Dave,
I know you're not the mechanical type, but if you did push the calipers back as described on both calipers and put it all back together, you would be amassed at the difference in brake feel. You really should try it at least once. My brakes always work, but right now there is maybe an inch of play before any real braking takes place. If I compress the pistons back into the caliper the play will almost disappear completely!

DaveM · 07-19-2006

Stlakid,
you may be right, but mine have never had a long travel before they start to work. Having said that the shop does what you have suggested every time I change front tyres

which as you know is quite regularly :razz:

I have noticed the difference you speak of every time I change the front donut.

maybe that's partially why I don't have so many problems?

thanks kid. :wink:
Yes I am not a mechanical genius I admit

Davem

Beach · 07-19-2006

Next time you push the pistons back into the calipers, clean them with some brake cleaner first.

The 99-04 series were prone to collecting a lot of gunk in the calipers. Cleaning them was part of my scheduled maintence on my 99 ST. It made all the difference.

Brett.

rodneybrown · 07-19-2006

Davem,
I know you are not having the problem, but
considering you seem to change tires once a week :-D , you should be able to exercise the brake pistons in your sleep.
The following is a real quick and easy method and it lasts a very long time for me, but that depends on a lot of
factors. Get a block of wood or anything solid 3/4 x 1 x 4 inches. Doesn't have to be exact but the 3/4 is a real
good thickness for working with the gap between the pistons. Crack the pad retaining pin but don't take it out yet.
From this point on make sure no one but you can depress the brake lever. Take off one caliper. Remove the retaining
pin and be carefull not to let the pads hit the ground as they drop out. Just set the pads and anti-rattle spring
aside. Put the block between the pistons. Now you can push the piston in and pump them out with the brake lever. You will see some pistons will move easy and others won't. Use a toothbrush and brake cleaner to remove as much gunk
as you can. After a short while all four pistons will move in and out easily and each pair will move together. Now
take a look at the pads and check for service thickness. I don't put much brake cleaner directly on the pad but do
blast off the edges. Check the retainer pin for corrosion. Sometimes I have to buff it off till it is shiney. Put
a little caliper grease on the pin and the areas where the pads slide. No gease on pads please, makes for far too exciting experiences. Put the pads back in the calipers, put the anti-rattle spring in, then press down on the spring while holding the pad and put in the retainer pin. You don't
have to tighten the pin until the caliper is back on. Be carefull and spread the pads so they fit over the rotors
and put the caliper back on. Repeat with the other caliper and then re-torque all bolts and pins. Pump the brakes back up. It takes me longer to type this than to do the job. You probably know all this but it may be useful to someone else.
Rod

[ This message was edited by: rodneybrown on 2006-07-19 06:22 ]

DaveM · 07-19-2006

Thanks Rodney.

Davem

BazzaST · 07-25-2006

Hi, guys last Sunday, I fixed the spongy brake feel - bought a set of six pot calipers, braided brake lines and 5/8" master cylinder. For $250 from 95-98 Kawasaki ZX9R.
Brake feel is hard (like something use to be???). The six pot TOKICO calipers from the early Kawasaki, Suzuki GXR, are from models before radial mounted calipers. Note this mod, is bolt on, only hazzle bleeding the system. The dearest part was buying new pads $100. Once the calpiers are on not many would notice the difference, to the look of the Triumph calipers, except the TOKICO are longer, also the wording on the calipers, as my mate said tell them that TOKICO is Japanese for Triumph. :-D :razz: :hammer:

harrya13 · 07-25-2006

G'day folks..

My 02, bought it in Sept 02, pulled on the front brake lever and it nearly touched the throttle - ohh***** !! don't like this much. Turns out it was set on position 4 - not position 1 on the adjuster.

When I reset it to 1 it was better - but still not what I was used to (BMW K100 RS)

Over the years I have tried a lot of things - in the last 2 years I have the adjuster pin ( that fits in the slots 1 thru 4) sitting in between the slots - makes a big difference - even if it's not 100 % safe (?)

I have not had a problem and inspect the pin regularly - no sign of wear or fatigue.. Hold the lever in for a bit while the bike warms up and its fine for the day.

I believe I'm a light user of the brakes, 1st set of fronts lasted over 30,000 klm and I don't do much city riding. Over the years I have had to do a few emergency stops - no problem..

Any comments ??

ruscook · 07-25-2006

Quote:

On 2006-07-24 23:57, harrya13 wrote:
G'day folks..

My 02, bought it in Sept 02, pulled on the front brake lever and it nearly touched the throttle - ohh***** !! don't like this much. Turns out it was set on position 4 - not position 1 on the adjuster.

Having the lever position adjuster is useless if Triumphs design/implementation doesn't allow us to use it ! I noticed last service the dealer had changed my 4 setting back to 2 or 3 to make the brakes feel harder, but as I have reasonably short fingers 4 suits me better. So I clean the pistons and use the rubber band on the lever o'night trip.

Quote:

When I reset it to 1 it was better - but still not what I was used to (BMW K100 RS)

Over the years I have tried a lot of things - in the last 2 years I have the adjuster pin ( that fits in the slots 1 thru 4) sitting in between the slots - makes a big difference - even if it's not 100 % safe (?)
Any comments ??

Harry this is definitely NOT safe. Imagine: Hard braking for a corner, hit an unseen bump, adjuster slips off of pin to a 2 or 3 setting, you go from brake to no brake to too much brake as it moves and you pull on the lever. It may be a small probability but one that doesn't give a high probability of a good outcome :cry: .

Russ