Hello all. I bought the Stebel Nautilus horn for my Sprint ST. First let me say there were several great posts to help me from this forum. In order to contribute as well I am posting pics and brief instructions. I am a novice at best and the first time I even took off a fairing so that will tell you something (it can be done by anyone). I have pretty good luck in just revving the engine due to some loud underseat mods to my exhaust (PowerMax underseat exhaust but don't bother looking for it because they don't sell them anymore I don't think). Also of note is I only had to take off the right fairing so I avoided the nervous removal and reinstall of the front fairing which I don't think I would get on the same way (I'll let my triumph shop do stuff like that).
Here are the key steps and few notes:
1. Buy a relay (30 amp) and all the posts say don't use the one supplied so I listened and didn't use the included one. Don't bother with the back and forth on whether you need it or not. The horn doesn't need it but the horn switch does based on smarter people than me that argued the point wonderfully. (If you want a kit that has the relay and wires there is one on Twisted Throttle but I didn't use it and I know I spent more than necessary but I have a weird notion that someone should look under there and say "wow that looks like factory" -- at least that is my goal. Twisted also has a great diagram for the relay at:
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/ezima...35-500x600.jpg
I didn't buy the horn or the wiring kit ( I would have save money) from them but I have respect for a company that posts really good info on how to do things so I will put them in my list of companies I respect and will do business with in the future (no I don't work for them and would not accept anything for free for saying these things)
2. Go to home depot or hardware store and get a bracket that is no more than 1 inch wide or it will cause fit problems. You can bend it even if you don't have metal fabrication experience (vise grip works wonders and be prepared to modify it several times for best fit and remember to check to see that your front forks don't hit it). If you want to paint it do it with high temp paint and do it first so it will dry by the time you need it.
3. I copied some aspects of what I found in posts so for those that recognize this technique (thank you!) - copying is truly the best form of flattery.
4. I used insulated female connectors 16-14 gauge but 12 would have worked a little better and make sure you buy some lengths of 12-14 gauge wire if you did it like mine.
5. In line fuse for power from the battery (used a smart fuse holder that actually lights up if it ever goes out so you can see if you have a blown fuse in the dark if your horn all the sudden stops working).
6. Plastic tubing (plastic loom on label although I would never thought to call it that). I used this to run the neg/pos wires from the battery all the way up to the front of the bike which I think protects it and makes it look more like a factory install than that of a novice like me.
7. Wire ties (plastic and use black if you want to make it cleaner looking and match factory ties I found).
8. Optional: When you are in the hardware store you get caught up in what to use so I used a lot of things I think are important but don't get scared off by my "overdoing it". Optional items included:
a. Lock-tight (thread locker fluid) - used red to allow insane levels of vibration and heat protection so I never (hopefully) have a loose fitting and it works very well
b. Antioxidant compound to cover the electrical connections and make sure they don't oxidize (also great for the rear brake electronic connections by the way since those were oxidizing on my bike)
c. Silicone lubricant (spray) so that it waterproofs the electrical connections by putting a small film of silicone over them
d. Heat shrink tubing (various diameters) to clean up the install and protect from moisture getting in the tube (overkill I admit but it looks great I think)
e. web search: pick a bunch of posts and opinions so you are comfortable that there are multiple ways to skin this cat and each are good - all the way from how to wire your relay and mounting techniques.
I had a broken fairing mount so I took this opportunity to get a new mount and I used the right mount bolt it uses to mount it on the bike (very clean in my opinion). I was pleased with this and it was my second attempt since my first used the mounting bolt for the radiator and the result was a bracket that barely touched the fork when the wheel was turned all the way right so I junked it in favor of this approach even though I could have made it work with a thinner metal bracket. BTW several folks have just mounted it in the existing location but having wires and the larger horn move around every time the wheel turns just seemed like more movement than necessary for parts that can work themselves loose, get wet, and dirty.
I ran my positive and negative directly from the battery since I didn't trust an aluminum frame to get a good ground (some have done this by the way with no problem).
I mounted the relay directly to the previous horn wiring per the instructions you will find mentioned in item 1 above and used plastic wire ties (use black if you want to be factory compliant) to secure it under to the frame in the front fairing underneath the headlight assembly.
Hope this helps. This is not the exhaustive step by step but is more of an overall guide to use to help you so search the web, print out several techniques, steps, relay wiring simple instructions, etc., and then go for it. It is really loud and although I don't use it as "THE" deterrent" to cars out to get me it is nice when I am going through a parking lot to hover my thumb on the horn button with confidence.
Here is a link to the pics:
http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/j...int%20st%2003/
Regards,
Mark
Anybody know the difference between the Stebel Nautilus and Magnum Twin series? Any recommendations? Both available from eBay at under $60.
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