Triumphrat

Blissed · 03-22-2006

Please see my post elsewhere.
Thanks!

Stlakid · 03-22-2006

Been there! You don't want Gold Valves as they are for cartridge type forks which the RS does not have. You want a set of 'Emulator Valves' for a 43mm fork.

Showa 43mm Fork parts

unummyu · 03-22-2006

Blissed,
RaceTech also fails to mention that one needs to "modify" the damping rod spacer at the bottom of the inner slider. Take a look at my MODS album on page two there is a picture of before and after I modified the spacer (click below).
Do yourself a favor and replace the seals and crush washers while you have the forks off. Take your time when cutting the spacers and triple check your measurements BEFORE you cut them.
RaceTech's site can guide you to the proper replacement springs just use this link and enter the requested information

Spring Rate Calculator

It isn't that complicated if one has a manual, took me one afternoon. Good luck

DaveM · 03-22-2006

For those of you near Brisbane Ozz.

Talk to Steve Wood ph 3208 0082 of "Suspension Improvement" in Randall street off Moss st. Slacks Creek.

Very cluey man about suspenders.

Davem

Stlakid · 03-22-2006

unummyu

Great tip, most would not have bothered. I would have since I have a milling machine in the garage! :-D

The question I have is since you have done the whole Race Tech mod to your forks; was it worth the trouble. Better question if you bought another Sprint would you do it again?

I've got their springs, which I feel they tend to spring you a bit on the stiff side, but I must admit the ride is not harsh, just doubt I'll ever use the last 2" of travel without crashing!

rodneybrown · 03-22-2006

Hey Kid,
I did the RT mod with a twist, I put in HyperPro springs and rode them for more than a year before doing the RT mod. Knowing what I know now I "probably" would not do the RT, just the HyperPro's because the springs did 95% of the change. The emulators make the difference in a series of multiple ripple bumps. Don't get me wrong, it makes a detectible difference and one that I like now that I have done it BUT not absolutely critical. Also, no matter what the great experts have to say, those continuously progressives DO work. Also, I have talked to John about the spacers, and it depends on how you drill the holes. I drilled my holes higher and did not need to modify the spacers. When I think about it John's method may be a bit more efficient, don't know, the object of the holes is to bypass the damper rod which is why I think John's method "may" do a better job.

rodneybrown · 03-22-2006

Something to think about when using RT straight rate springs, they are much shorter than stock dual rates or HyperPro continuously variable rate springs. That means you have to put in more spacer to take up that space. It also means that the spring compression has less travel before spring bind. There was a couple of threads about a year or so about guys bottoming their forks. I have never had mine bottom and I hit a chuck hole once that launched me airborne. HyperPro flat states you won't ever bottom their springs.

Just more "stuff" to burn up brain cells on

Blissed · 03-23-2006

Great response, thank you all! Such a knowledgable group...

rodneybrown, I am seriously considering doing what you did - replace the factory springs with HyperPro springs first, and give it a try, before I invest in a non-reversible mod with Race Tech emulators.

Anyone objects, or advises against? :???:

So, a few more questions:

1. Which springs do I need? I found the following fork spring kit for 2004 Sprint RS: SP-TR09-SSA012. Is it correct?

2. Where do I order? From http://www.hyperprousa.com/ ?

3. What are the steps for installing the HypePro springs in my bike? I am assuming that I don't have to take the forks off the bike, just slip the springs in from the top. Not sure how to change the oil. Do I need to install some additional spacers etc? Any special tools needed? (I don't the factory manual

)

rodneybrown, can you please elaborate on how you installed yours, and which HyperPro product you used?

Thank you all again in advance!

ST-ern · 03-23-2006

I had a pro do my front end. He installed RT linear rate springs that have something like .9 stamped on the top.

They are a bit shorter than the stock and he added three washers under the spacer.

He does his own valves. Reckons they're better than RT emulators (which btw he also imports). Can be set up to reduce braking dive, and vary high as against low speed damping. Whatever. On rough bends at speed the changes make the bike a helluva lot safer than the stock setup.

unummyu · 03-23-2006

I think there were two advantages to the front end modifications, less front end dive under braking (probably due to stiffer springs and heavier oil) and a little better conformity to rapid succession bumps (due to the emulators). I don't know if I would add the emulators right off again or not. I got them as a birthday present so, for free I can't complain. I would definitely try starting with different oil and stiffer springs before adding the emulators if you find the current set up unacceptable, unless money is not important.

Don't know about HyperPro's instructions but if they are anything like RaceTech's they will tell you everything you need to know. As far as tools you will need a socket or box end (ring spanner) that fits the preload cap I can't remember what size it is off hand, and I think a 6mm hex wrench for the drain plug. Loosen the pinch bolt on the handlebars too to make it easier getting the top cap off. Back off the preload adjusters as far as they can go first. Be careful removing the preload adjuster cap because there is some preload on the springs, not a ton but expect it and you should be OK.
To refill the tubes I got a 60cc syringe from the hospital, put a length of tygon tubing (maybe 8", 20cm) on the syringe. Drilled a hole that was just a little smaller than the tubing in the middle of a thin piece of wood about 4X4 inches (10X10cm). Fed the tubing through the hole. I adjusted the length of tubing protruding through the wood to the level recommended by RaceTech. I overfilled the tubes with oil and set the piece of wood with the tubing sticking out, on top of the tube and withdrew the plunger on the syringe until it wouldn't suck any more oil. Presto the oil level is properly set and both tubes have the exact same amount of oil.

To completely drain the forks one needs to remove the front axle. It COULD be done without completely removing the wheel but would be a PITA trying to support the wheel and remove the drain plugs etc. There is a drain plug in the bottom of each tube, may as well replace the crush washers too since it is a PITA removing and replacing the front wheel if the old one leak after the mod. Be very careful with the speedometer sending unit, it is tricky to get right and it costs a wad of money if you muck it up.

Would I do it to another Sprint? In a heart beat and I'd do the rear straight away too.

[ This message was edited by: unummyu on 2006-03-23 05:52 ]