breaking(lapping) in a new engine - Page 3

zore · #21 (**permalink**) 04-25-2006

That's how I broke in my sprint. I had it for all of 3 days and trailered it down to deals gap. Give the nature of the area, I kept the rpm's down but never stayed at one rpm too long and I didn't baby it. I changed the oil at 800 and put Synthetic in it. 35k later and it still runs as good today as it did 2 years ago. I ride 120 to 140 miles a day and love that bike.

I'm currently breaking in a 82 Yamaha XZ550RK. It has an original 2400 miles on it.

Good thread by the way. :hammer:

Grrnt · #22 (**permalink**) 05-10-2006

I guess the question is as you do what you did if you did it differently how do you know? If your bike runs like clock work after x number of km's is it due to the break in schedule you used or just how well it was built? If you broke it in differently would it run any different? When I picked up my 06 a couple of weeks ago the dealer told me not to worry about the recommended schedule, just keep the revs down for the first couple of rides, letting it cool down completely between, not revving it without load and wait until after the first service to really nail it. So mostly I've been keeping it below 3.5, then 4 and now 5 thousand until the first service, (with one or two excursions higher!). Then again, the rate I change bikes I won't care what it's like at 50,000km because it won't be mine! (is that selfish or irresponsible?)

ruscook · #23 (**permalink**) 05-10-2006

Quote:

On 2006-05-10 04:22, Grrnt wrote:
.....mostly I've been keeping it below 3.5, then 4 and now 5 thousand until the first service, (with one or two excursions higher!). Then again, the rate I change bikes I won't care what it's like at 50,000km because it won't be mine! (is that selfish or irresponsible?)

Dunno I change every 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 years but by that tmie I've got between 65-80,000KM on them :-)

So I run them in and change the oil every 6000K and do the dealer service every 10-12,000K. I don't mind running over the recommended service interval if I've changed the oil early myself.

My Zx9 had a little top end trouble (coked up - I don't know why I did big miles each run) and it had 78000KM on it, but the TDM I traded @ 68000KM was running sweet as - shame the body work wasn't as good :cry: .

Russ

BlackBeauty · #24 (**permalink**) 06-27-2006

So, here's my confusion. I just got my new bike. The tank sticker says 3,500 rpm limit for 300 miles.

The dealer says 1/3 throttle for 100 miles, up to 1/2 throttle thereafter - no redlining but do not worry unduly about the absolure rpm.

The owner's manual says: for the first 500 miles, do NOT operate at full throttle and do NOT go over 3/4 of maximum speed.

The tanksticker and the owner's manual seem to be at odds with each other, if you ask me.

I'm sure that all the options above will lap the engine in acceptably well but I tend to overly worry about these things, wondering what is EXACTLY the BEST option.

Any opinions??

Thanks - BB

PegDragon · #25 (**permalink**) 07-02-2006

Hello all...I'm a new 06 ST owner and member. Been riding for over 20 years and this is the first street bike I've purchased new...hence my concern with break-in. I find several recommendations at odds with each other...

1. Under 3500 rpm's for 100 miles
2. Do not lug the engine
3. Do not maintain a steady rpm

It seems that to not lug the engine in any gear, and to not exceed 3500, I end up right around 3000 in any gear. I think of the three, number one would be the least damaging to not follow, assuming I'm not running it up to redline all the time...

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

dolson · #26 (**permalink**) 07-02-2006

Following the factory recommended RPM schedule on the tank won't be lugging the engine unless you try to start off in 3rd or 4th or something like that. The torque in these fellows come from low down compared to other bikes. Just use your head in your gear selection and you and your new ride will be fine.
Welcome, Don

rodneybrown · #27 (**permalink**) 07-02-2006

Grrnt brings up an excellent point. If you aren't running the bike more than 50K miles (80K+ km), just how do you know what the break in period did???? These engines should run at least 100K miles without being babied. For that matter, where is the body of evidence that clearly shows that a more rapid break in period is detrimental to the bike? Clearly, without that type of information, attributing a low mileage bike's good fortune to the break in period is like the rooster taking credit for the sunrise.

harrya13 · #28 (**permalink**) 07-25-2006

G'day..

Interesting read on a totally different method of breaking in a new motor

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

rodneybrown · #29 (**permalink**) 07-25-2006

harry,
Ya know that method is total blasphemy on this thread :-)
There is a companion to that method dealing with oil changes too. Not sure if it is the same guy. It says to dump the oil and change the filter at something like a 100 miles but don't switch to synthetic till some later time.
IMO this guy(s) are the way to go.
Rod

dolson · #30 (**permalink**) 07-25-2006

Quote:

G'day..

Interesting read on a totally different method of breaking in a new motor

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This has been brought up many times from the distant past and pops up time to time and logical thinking engine builders know that there are two basic ways to break-in a new engine with variations for different applications.

So, pick your own poison. But I would think that Triumph knows a little more about their motors than this goofball does and has a good reason for why they specify how they want their motors broken-in. I wouldn't think that Triumph wants warranty claims on their engines and considering that they know the materials, clearances and pressures involved this is why they have chosen their method of break-in.

But in the end it's your investment.

Don