breaking(lapping) in a new engine

[TheToeCutter]

I'm thinking that I would like to do a simmilar break-in with my new '04 RS, (yes believe it or not a new 04 RS!!)

My question is: "Break-in oil" is mentioned a couple of times in these posts, and I'm not sure what break-in oil is exactly. Is this is special type of oil available from a Triumph dealer or somewhere else?? Or is this just an expression coined for a conventional dino oil, as opposed to the synthetics??

I'm thinking of doing the change at 400-500 miles, (filter as well I am assuming).

Thanks in advance!!!

[rodneybrown]

Ask your dealer what they are putting in for break-in oil because that is part of the prep when they take it out of the crate. I'm very sure it isn't pure synthetic but what it is exactly I don't know. I would hope it meets the oil spec as stated in the service manual but who knows. As stated earlier I wouldn't be in a rush to change to synthetic, but that's all I would run once broken in.

[TheToeCutter]

Thanks for the feedback...... unfortunatley I didn't get the answer I was expecting from the dealer.

I called the big Triumph dealer in Toronto, was speaking with the service department, and he claims that the break-in oil that they put in the bikes out of the crate is the full synthetic regular post-break-in oil.

I'm going to call another dealer and see what they say..... the investigation continues..... :???:

*update: Spoke with another service dept., they put Motul 5100 semi-synth 10w40 in their new Triumphs. I'm thinking this is the one I'll use for the early change.

[ This message was edited by: TheToeCutter on 2006-03-31 08:54 ]

[welshrob]

Very good posting, Don. I`ve always run-in new engines exactly as the handbok says, figuring that the manufacturers would know better than I do.

[93-Daytona]

Good move with the Motul 5100 10w/40 ToeCutter.
I ran my 01 RS on this from new. Was the break in oil and the continuing oil. The performance of this particular oil is excellent and its competitively priced. As a semi, it does all its duties very well. Its API ratings are very high. I have oil pressure tested, compression tested and optically scoped the internals of a number of Triumphs that have run on it from new. During valve checks and adjustments I have carefully examined the cams,shims,cam chain etc and found NO marks at all. The cam lobes being highly polished with an almost mirror finish. With the sumps off after 50,000km, the inspection is just as impressive. From the underside of the piston crowns to the gearbox, everything, including the crankcase walls is spotless. And the clutch just loves it. I often wonder why road going motorcyclists spend so much monet on oils developed for racing. I see no advantage, off track, in using fully synthetic. Oil is one of those topics where you find almost everyone has their preference, and can back up the results. Really, all you can do is find a good quality oil and stick to it, they're all pretty good.
And the smell... the French don't just make sweet smelling wine, the oil is almost as fragrant!

[ This message was edited by: 93-Daytona on 2006-04-06 02:41 ]

[JLesismore]

This is great stuff, but the question that I am left with is the best way to do it? Is there are certain RPM range that I should be hitting in every gear withing the first 100 miles? For example, on the FJR forums they have specific ways to break in their bikes. Here is what they have to say:
"VERY IMPORTANT -- Get the bike up to operating temps first.

Using 1/2 throttle, run from 4,000 to 6,000 rpm, then roll the throttle off completely until the rpms drop back to 4,000. Do this in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. Ride normally for a few miles.

Using 3/4 throttle, run from 4,000 to 7,500 rpm, then roll the throttle off completely until the rpms drop back to 4,000. Do this in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. Ride normally for a few miles.

Using full throttle, run from 3,000 to redline, then roll the throttle off completely until the rpms drop back to 3,000. Do this in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. Ride normally for a few miles.

After 20 miles on the odometer, change the oil and oil filter, using "normal" petroleum oil (not synthetic). Let the bike cool down for at least 1/2 hour before riding again.

Ride the bike for another hour, followed by another complete cooldown. "

Is there anything this specific available for the Sprint? Any advise would be much appreciated since I am picking up the new bike tomorrow.

[dolson]

My personal experience is that these are very tight engines with very tight tolerances. The first hundred I didn't baby it but took it a little easy but still hit the upper rpm limit. After that I progressively got more aggressive with her.
So, I didn't limit throttle usage but let my conscience be my guide.

As far as warm up. About as long as it takes to put on my helmet and gloves then I'm gone. Idling a lot to warm it up really doesn't do much good. Every one looks at the temp gage but the oil, which is the important thing is still cold.
I prefer to warm up the bike as a whole. Coolant, oil, tires and brakes and myself at the same time.

Welcome and have a good one.

Don

[JLesismore]

Thanks again Don. BTW, I really like the site :-D

[JLesismore]

Just picked up the new bike on Saturday and followed a combonation of break-in advice. I hope all turns out well. Thanks again.

[DaveM]

Thank you again Don.

My machine was run in when I got it and possibly not done well as it was a demo machine, it was a good deal and a good trade on my GSX R600.

Although it has always been serviced on schedule by experienced Triumph mecahnics that I trust.

I also change my oil and filter between all the services as I have with every bike I have ever owned. Something I can do.

Your technical explanation was very interesting and educational and obviously took a deal of time and thought.

I have now got 22,000kms on the clock and she's just getting better and better every time I take her out.

Thank you Don.

Davem