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11-27-2012, 10:17 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Grand Prix 500 Main Motorcycle: Sprint GT
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 106
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ticking noise on startup...
I've noticed a ticking noise for the first few seconds of startup in the cold (below 40f). It almost sounds like a valve tick, but just a single valve. It's hard to tell since it just did this the last 3 startups, but it sounds like it is in time with the engine. After a few seconds it just goes away completely.
Before I talk to my dealer, has anyone had anything like this?
Could I just be due for a valve service a bit early? all motorcycles I've had get tighter over time tho...
It's a 11 Sprint GT, 4500 miles.
__________________
2011 Sprint GT, 2008 Kawasaki KLR650, 1981 Honda CB750F, 1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C *sold*, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14 *STOLEN!!*, 1980 Yamaha XT500 *sold*, 1998 Honda Shadow Aero VT1100C3 *sold*, 2006 Yamaha FZ6 (sold)
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11-27-2012, 07:48 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Supersport 600 Main Motorcycle: 2003 Sprint ST
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 164 Other Motorcycle: 1985 Yamaha Maxim-X
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Is that a new sound? Was if doing it in the cold before? My first thought is it is that cold, the oil will be thick for a bit after you first start it up. Could be the lifters tapping if oil isn't flowing well.
What weight oil do you have in it?
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11-28-2012, 08:41 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Grand Prix 500 Main Motorcycle: Sprint GT
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 106
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Still has the oil from the dealer. It just started, or I just noticed it. I've don't think it's any colder than I've started it up in before.
__________________
2011 Sprint GT, 2008 Kawasaki KLR650, 1981 Honda CB750F, 1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C *sold*, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14 *STOLEN!!*, 1980 Yamaha XT500 *sold*, 1998 Honda Shadow Aero VT1100C3 *sold*, 2006 Yamaha FZ6 (sold)
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11-28-2012, 09:25 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Supersport 600 Main Motorcycle: 2003 Sprint ST
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 164 Other Motorcycle: 1985 Yamaha Maxim-X
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Well, it could be something to talk to the dealer about. It would be strange if it were a valve issue. I'd be pretty surprised if the valves need adjusting at 4500 miles.
Ticking could be lots of things. My guess is that it's just a cold weather and oil issue. Since you are still on dealer oil, then my first recommendation would be to change the oil and put in a full synthetic like Mobile 1. I think it is 15w-50. You might find a full synthetic with 5w-40 or something, too. Regardless, I suspect that with a brand new engine and who-knows-what oil (could be a partial-synthetic blend) the oil has lost viscosity at 4500 miles and will sound and operate much better with an oil and filter change. The break in period can be hard on any engine oil. So, that should be the first thing to do.
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11-28-2012, 12:10 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Grand Prix 500 Main Motorcycle: Sprint GT
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 106
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I probably should have said that I bought it from the dealer with 4000 miles already on the clock, it was a demo bike that one of the owners used as their personal bike. It was said to have synthetic in it.
I'm gonna listen to it more carefully, if it is an engine noise I'll do an oil change, if it's still there I'll go visit the dealer.
__________________
2011 Sprint GT, 2008 Kawasaki KLR650, 1981 Honda CB750F, 1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C *sold*, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14 *STOLEN!!*, 1980 Yamaha XT500 *sold*, 1998 Honda Shadow Aero VT1100C3 *sold*, 2006 Yamaha FZ6 (sold)
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11-28-2012, 01:26 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Site Supporter Moto Grand Prix Main Motorcycle: 06 Sprint ST ABS red
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northland - New Zealand
Posts: 2,886
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..... possibly an exhaust leak that tightens up as it gets to temp?
A new engine shouldnt have ticking noises due to wear.
Anyhow the dealer is the best one to sort it for you.
Grant
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12-16-2012, 01:35 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Grand Prix 500 Main Motorcycle: 2006 Sprint St abs
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cape Cod MA
Posts: 121
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Be careful with manifold bolts.
In another post, the man thought a tick was a leaky manifold gasket and snapped the stud off in the head. If you have a leak there replace all three gaskets.
Never blindly tighten anything that isn't obviously loose. Always use a torque wrench on everything you can. If you over tighten steel into AL hard blindly, it will either crack the AL, strip it, or snap. Generally, when things get too loose, snugging back to torque may work only if you catch it right away. The gasket is usually ruined and could be how it became loose, not the other way round. Over tightening is never a fix. Trouble is, people don't realize how much mechanical advantage they are applying to things with tools until it is too late.
A manifold leak is easily felt with your hand and may leave carbon tracks any way.
Turned out that bike had an electrical leak at a coil, snapping/ticking as it grounded yet the thing ran fine. Dilectic silicone grease is a handy item in any tool box but won't fix a cracked coil.
I agree, change the oil.
You don't want to leave dirty oil in over the winter anyway.
It may be too thin and draining off the parts when it sits.
My experience with car dealers ? They would turn up the radio. Hope your bike dealer has a smart mechanic. Mention it just in case it seizes in the guide or blows a valve throught the head, then you've mentioned it.
Yes, change the oil and I bet it goes away.
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12-16-2012, 03:12 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Site Supporter Commentator Main Motorcycle: 06 ST, BOTM, 09-10 BOTY
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 9,035 Other Motorcycle: 05SV1K, 2012 Ducati M1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdlark
Be careful with manifold bolts.
In another post, the man thought a tick was a leaky manifold gasket and snapped the stud off in the head. If you have a leak there replace all three gaskets.
Never blindly tighten anything that isn't obviously loose. Always use a torque wrench on everything you can. If you over tighten steel into AL hard blindly, it will either crack the AL, strip it, or snap. Generally, when things get too loose, snugging back to torque may work only if you catch it right away. The gasket is usually ruined and could be how it became loose, not the other way round. Over tightening is never a fix. Trouble is, people don't realize how much mechanical advantage they are applying to things with tools until it is too late.
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 Good post.
I would like to add that snugging back to torque is best done by loosening first, and then re-torquing.
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Oldndumb
Caveat lector
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12-17-2012, 10:27 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Grand Prix 500 Main Motorcycle: Sprint GT
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 106
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It does it kinda random. Temperature doesn't seem consistent. It almost sounds more like a chain rattle, but it's for such a short time it's hard to tell. Still have to change the oil. Will keep updated.
__________________
2011 Sprint GT, 2008 Kawasaki KLR650, 1981 Honda CB750F, 1986 Honda Shadow VT1100C *sold*, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14 *STOLEN!!*, 1980 Yamaha XT500 *sold*, 1998 Honda Shadow Aero VT1100C3 *sold*, 2006 Yamaha FZ6 (sold)
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12-18-2012, 03:50 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Grand Prix 500 Main Motorcycle: 2005 Sprint RS 955i
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wrington, N Somerset, England
Posts: 138 Other Motorcycle: ZRX1100 - 97 Trident 900 Extra Motorcycle: Trophy 1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buicknick72
. . . I bought it from the dealer with 4000 miles already on the clock, it was a demo bike . . .
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For goodness sake, why are you even thinking about messing about with it yourself?
Surely it's still under the manufacturers warranty, so if theres anything amiss, just take it back to the dealer to sort out.
Fair enough if you'd bought it privately with 50000 miles up, but this is a nearly new, very low mileage bike with a warranty.
Take it back & get them to listen. If theres anything wrong, they should fix it - and for free.
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