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Old 11-25-2012, 11:58 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caddydaddy
I checked the voltage coming from the stator and it is 0!
That's virtually impossible, especially on all three phases
Are you checking correctly? Meter set to AC volts?



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Old 11-26-2012, 12:11 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
That's virtually impossible, especially on all three phases
Are you checking correctly? Meter set to AC volts?
You are absolutely right! Even though I know that it should put out AC, I was measuring for DC. I don't know why! I will check it again in the morning.
From my test, the R/R was fine though?
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:22 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caddydaddy View Post
... From my test, the R/R was fine though?
What test did you do to validate that? Always helpful if you can post the actual data, even if you believe it to be good.
Also, please supply info of what the present battery measures with ignition and headlights on, then what it measures once you start and whether it varies at all if you increase the engine rpm (to say 5K rpm)

Quote:
I was reading about how they can look charred when bad, but it (stator) doesn't look too bad.
Can you post a pic?
If it passes the DC isolation test (i.e. you cannot measure short between any of the terminals and the engine case) and does not look visibly burned (dark is OK, just not charred), then stator is probably good
Voltage measurement will confirm - all three phases should be virtually same (again please post numbers for each phase).

If stator is good, and the connectors are not burned, then it almost has to be the R/R
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I had a faulty RR, but caught it before it killed my stator.

You can order a cable from Triumph that allows for a plug and play replacement for the mosfet RR.

Rather than fabricate a new bracket, I unhooked one bolt of the current bracket and 'swung it up' a bit so I could attached the new RR to the same spot as the original without any fabrication necessary.

The factory cable is a bit short, but is JUST long enough to allow for plug and play connection.

Testing the stator is tricky, find DEcosse's thread on that and it's very well explained.

Good luck! I'm dealing with electrical issues on my Tuono...just received a new starter relay in the mail at work...looking forward to installing it this evening! Thank goodness for forums like this one..

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Old 12-07-2012, 11:29 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I installed my new R/R today, but am not quite finished with putting it all back together to start it up. Tomorrow, I'll have testing results!

I decided to go rogue and install the new R/R on the back of the air filter housing using an aluminum sheet bracket I made. It is held onto the air filter housing bracket using the stock screws.
I chose this location because behind the fairing would put it right behind the foam used to block air flow from the radiator, so it wouldn't get much air flow IMHO. Behind the air filter housing is a big open space, so it should stay cool. Plus, it kept all the wires real short and easy to install!



In other good news, Shorai is going to send me a FREE replacement battery! They sent me an RMA ticket and I have sent them the dead battery back.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:45 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Excellent! I thought they might do you right...

Still thinking about a better place to put the R/R on a 955.

Cheers,
-Kit
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:16 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KitNYC View Post
Excellent! I thought they might do you right...

Still thinking about a better place to put the R/R on a 955.

Cheers,
-Kit
Not so sure what's wrong with the stock location, Kit.
The whole right side frame acts like a heatsink.
My frame gets very warm on the right side, therefore, heat is being transferred to it from the R/R.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:56 PM   #28 (permalink)
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OK, an update!

I finally got around to finish my install of the MOSFET R/R and still no charging. One phase of the stator is reading lower than the other two. 2 are reading between 19-60 Volts AC between idle and 5,000 RPM. One phase is reading between 17-48 Volts AC at the same RPM range.
I'm guessing 1 phase of the stator is bad?
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I'm no DEcosse, but that doesn't sound to me like enough difference in readings for a fully cooked phase... What do you see checking continuity to ground from the stator? What kind of shape is the stator connector in?

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Old 12-15-2012, 03:13 PM   #30 (permalink)
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So I checked voltage from the R/R itself and it is putting out 14.8. I am not sure now why it's not getting to the battery though! I'm only reading 12.xx at the battery.
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