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Old 11-16-2012, 03:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
Here is good pic of the older TBs



#1 is on the right in this picture
(that view as it is mounted on the bike would be looking towards the rear)

Can you confirm is this one and not the one at TPS end?
Are you saying that 2 & 3 begin to open, but 1 remains closed?
or that 1 sticking is causing all three to remain closed, but 1 is the plate that you feel the issue with?

I would be more inclined to believe something in the linkage rather than the plate itself that is sticking.
Hi Decosse,
All 3 stick.
It seems to be #1 that causes the bind as I can free them up by prodding no 1 butterfly with my finger..but not the other two.
Regards
Mark
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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An update for those interested. Bikie is in intensive care at the moment since impacting the front wheel on a metal road cover. Wheel is away for straightening. So took time to try to solve the sticking LH butterfly problem.
Confirmed that throttle cable and return springs are intact and well and good. Re-adjusted throttle cable in and out to no avail. Found the stop screw/bolt. It is a fixed position threaded stud - bonded/welded on the underside of the bracket that the IAC valve screws into. Seems like when I grab a bunch of throttle and let it slam shut, the stop hammer (for want of a better name) does not strike onto the stop bolt - there is a clearance of about .5mm. If I close that with a piece of cardboard and slam the thottle - all is good. So I pulled off the bracket and noting that the underside seems well gooped and possibly spot welded underneath I decided to spin a nut on top of the stud leaving about .5mm above the original height of the stud and bonded it in place with superglue and bolted it back down to test. It is now good. No sticking and the butterflys look as though they are fully closed. Not sure if this is a sensible fix. Will not be starting it up to test till I put the wheel back on anyway. Any adverse comments?
Regards
Mark
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955 Throttle body butterfly sticks-iacv-bracket.jpg  
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I don't know any reason the nut wouldn't work, and I can't see one from the pics, but someone else might?

I do know that superglue is not appropriate there, and would suggest red thread locker instead. (That is, the red Permatex available in pretty much every auto supply shop in the US. Not sure you get the same stuff in Unn Zud.)

Cheers,
-Kit
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:04 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KitNYC View Post
I don't know any reason the nut wouldn't work, and I can't see one from the pics, but someone else might?

I do know that superglue is not appropriate there, and would suggest red thread locker instead. (That is, the red Permatex available in pretty much every auto supply shop in the US. Not sure you get the same stuff in Unn Zud.)

Cheers,
-Kit
Thanks Kit - yes - agreed, I'll get some of that on there before I zip it back up.
The nut in question is visible in the pic - about 1/3 across the frame starting from RHS.
Mark
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Sorry, to be clear: I see the nut itself; I do not see a reason it won't work for you. Looks like an eminently practical solution from here.

Cheers,
-Kit
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Hi Fellas - a further update on this - and I need some advice.
After modifying the throttle stop to include a "nut" -my throttle spring return is excellent. While in there - I decided to dispense with my IACV corrogated tubes - which I repaired last year - and replaced them with new segments of nitrile vacuum tube..just in case my repairs were failing.
Buttoned everything back and fired it up to warm up and couldn't drop it below 1700rpm idle, so connected up to TUNE ECU. Did several TPS resets and and while the software indicated success, subsequent power ons still rev'd as high. So either the ever so slight elevation of the butterflys (still shut tight though) or the changed diameter of the new IAC vacuum tubes (bit narrower) was stuffing it up.
I noticed there is an "Adjust IACV" option that I can take - OK I tried that - when double-clicking on that I get up/down arrows which if I click down, changes the setting from what was showing as -27. I altered it to -32. Did another TPS reset and started up again and revs showed around 1540 now. So I have now dropped that setting back down to -38 and will see how it runs on the way to work tomorrow.
Can anyone advise - what setting is relevant for IACV? Assume this does some stepper motor positioning? Should it be reset to 0? Maybe I should just keep backing it down till I get back to 1200rpm,?
Regards
Mark
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:22 AM   #17 (permalink)
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back it down to get 1200 or 1250.

you'll probably need to balance the throttle bodies after adjusting the throttle stop on that one body.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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back it down to get 1200 or 1250.

you'll probably need to balance the throttle bodies after adjusting the throttle stop on that one body.
Hi Charlie
I just had another look at this this morning - I have backed the IACV setting in TuneECU down to -38 then -44 and lastly -60 but get no reduction in rpm. Hovers between 1450 and 1580. I'll try again later - back to to say -80 to -90 or whatever it goes back down to.... I reset it back to the orginal setting of -27 as a test and sure enough - the rpm rose back up to 1700-1800..so it does influence somehow.
The "nut" was not added to a single body mechanism - it is the primary "bump stop" for the throttle cable and influences all bodies the same as far as I can tell. I haven't interfered with the 2 spring screws for adjusting 2 & 3 bodies.
Mark
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trade_nancy View Post
Hi Charlie
I just had another look at this this morning - I have backed the IACV setting in TuneECU down to -38 then -44 and lastly -60 but get no reduction in rpm. Hovers between 1450 and 1580. I'll try again later - back to to say -80 to -90 or whatever it goes back down to.... I reset it back to the orginal setting of -27 as a test and sure enough - the rpm rose back up to 1700-1800..so it does influence somehow.
The "nut" was not added to a single body mechanism - it is the primary "bump stop" for the throttle cable and influences all bodies the same as far as I can tell. I haven't interfered with the 2 spring screws for adjusting 2 & 3 bodies.
Mark
Sounds like you're getting too much air thru the intake system. You can get air in thru the IACV, the balancing air bleeds, and the throttle blades. One of those three is letting too much air in.I hope your throttle blades aren't just cracked open a fraction of a hair. That would let a lot of air in.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CharlieS View Post
Sounds like you're getting too much air thru the intake system. You can get air in thru the IACV, the balancing air bleeds, and the throttle blades. One of those three is letting too much air in.I hope your throttle blades aren't just cracked open a fraction of a hair. That would let a lot of air in.
Yes - been thinking that - the blades (I assume u refer to wot I called butterflies) may be a smidgen open. Had a real close look at them before I zipped it up - seemed shut...but a teenie tiny crack may be there. I'll have to go back inside - I'll screw that new nut down a turn and see if that makes any diff.
Also - I did pull apart, check, clean the IAC valve itself...but left the o-ring as it was..as I didn't have one here. Maybe I've reassembled that badly somehow. I'll check that too.
Read some comments about people pulling the o-rings out completely to remedy issues...I can't fathom why that makes things better...maybe I'll get a new one ready to throw in.
Update: OK I pulled it open this morning. Removed the "nut" on end of the throttle stop and YES that enables me to get idle speed back down. Bodies 2 + 3 are ever so slightly more open than 1. That was caused when I balanced the bodies last time. So I did another balance - get the same result. In order to get level readings across the 3 - I am forced to set 2 + 3 with a bit more screw adjustment - opening those "blades" by maybe .1mm more.
Anyway - I still have the stuck "blade" if I slam the throttle shut..I'll put up with it. Either that - or have the throttles more out of balance. I can't figure why. Maybe no 1 has a valve issue. Nearly time for the next valve clearance check...but No 1 showed bang on clearances 10,000 miles ago.
Onward - and closing this epistle. Thanks to Charlie and others for feedback.
Mark

Last edited by Trade_nancy; 12-05-2012 at 04:29 PM.
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