Triumphrat

JPTL · 11-05-2012, 06:53 PM

I just want to upgrade my high beam bulb. Not as simple as I'd imagined.

Is it really as time consuming as it reads in the OM? "Remove the cockpit". I take it that the cockpit is the upper fairing/bodywork that houses the windshield and holds the gauge cluster.
I've got the two cowling covers off, and I'm seeing misc. bolts and brackets that either are securing the cockpit to the bracket or attaching the headlight housing to the cockpit....I can't tell.
Before I start removing every single nut & bolt in sight, is there a step-by-step to do this, or is it possible to replace the center bulb by coming from below?
Thanks,
J.P.

Bruce C · 11-05-2012, 07:26 PM

Did you pull off the windscreen and access plate in front of the instrument cluster??
You might be able to look down in there and see what you are up against. If you know someone with very small hands, they might be able to reach up from underneath and change the bulb.
Otherwise, it is the biggest PITA you have ever run into on a Sprint!!!!!!

JPTL · 11-05-2012, 07:32 PM

I did pull off the dash plate (4 bolt plastic section under the windshield). Not much access from there.
I was hoping that there was a much simpler way to get to what I'd consider a maintenance item, but I suppose easier access to the headlight assembly wasn't something that the design folks at Triumph spent too much time on.
Maybe I'll try accessing the fixture w/out removing everything. It seems to be blocked by the instruments..

Bruce C · 11-05-2012, 08:08 PM

If I remember correctly, I removed the mirror stalks, the wiring harness has to come loose around the front of the nose fairing(reach your fingers under the front edge of the nose, you can feel the wiring clips) and two bolts on either side of the headlight assembly that hold the nose. Plus the 3 screws on each side that bolts the side fairings to the nose.
Then I had to pull the headlight housing!!! A pain!!!!!

A couple members had better luck by removing the instrument panel. I'd look into it if I were you.

JPTL · 11-05-2012, 08:38 PM

I just tried the reach-in-under-around method and had great results. Had the old bulb out and the new bulb in w/the connector and boot back in place in less than 10 minutes. The important thing in doing it this way is that you have to know exactly how the bulb fits, how it's oriented & how it's held in position before you go in. The dipped light fixtures can educate you on this, since they're much more accessible and visible.
Armed with clean latex gloves to hold the bulb and a visual in your mind of the bulb assembly, you then have to go completely by feel.
I found that by having the access/dash plate removed did give me a bit of a visual and needed access from the top. Coming in from the top with my left hand, and reaching in from the left fairing side was doable by turning the forks a little the right.
With my left hand coming in from the top, the boot was easily pulled off the bezel and lowered out of the way. I then unplugged the bulb connector, and unclipped it from the housing.... all by feel. Using my left hand from the top, I handed the original bulb to my right hand.
With the new bulb in my left hand, I came in from above and used my right hand to guide it into the fixture. I got lucky and the bulb fell into place pretty easily. The fact that it was seated and couldn't spin - and the clips easily locked it down, confirmed that it was seated and properly oriented.
This 'blind' approach explains why the OM says to remove the cockpit. They can't really say to do it all by feel. That really would be an unorthodox thing to have in an owner's manual

I'm glad I tried it this way as opposed to removing that cockpit. You guys are right...it does look like a royal pain.

cheefkeef · 11-06-2012, 08:53 AM

I've been off line for a couple of days and didn't see your post until a few moments ago.

Anyhow I changed out my high beam globe a few weeks ago -also without removing the whole cockpit assembly.

About the only significant difference in my method was that I removed the instrument cluster as well. It is held in by two brass spring clips and two "spear and grommet" clips. There is also one plug, all this is under the dash panel. Undo the plug, remove the two spring clips and then pull the cluster rearwards to disengage the spears and its out. It gives a little tiny bit more room.

I also didn't have any latex gloves - but being mindful of keeping oil off the glass I used long-nosed piers to hold one of the tabs on the globe. It was not the easiest method and I think the latex gloves would have been easier.

JPTL · 11-06-2012, 09:06 AM

If I had to do it again (probably when this Philips Xtreme Power bulb dies) I'll take your advice and remove the instrument cluster. Still much less time consuming than pulling the entire cockpit from what I can gather.
Now to have a nice warm night where I can go for an nice ride & test my new lighting....probably sometime in '13 unfortunately.

Bruce C · 11-06-2012, 10:03 AM

JPTL
You did good!!!!!!!!!
I wish I had done the instrument removal method when I converted to a HID hi-beam!!!!

JPTL · 11-06-2012, 10:38 AM

Bruce, how is that HID high beam working for you?
I did 5000k 35w HID's for the dipped sides (easy job - no regrets) and was contemplating a 55w HID for the high. Clearly a more involved job than simply swapping out bulbs.
Since I ride in areas where I encounter oncoming traffic more than not, my high beam use is sporadic. I was concerned of the ballast delay preventing me from getting the full strength of the high beam; only to have to shut it off when the next oncoming car appeared.

Bruce C · 11-06-2012, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPTL

Bruce, how is that HID high beam working for you?
Since I ride in areas where I encounter oncoming traffic more than not, my high beam use is sporadic. I was concerned of the ballast delay preventing me from getting the full strength of the high beam; only to have to shut it off when the next oncoming car appeared.

BINGO!! Thats the problem!! It's the price you pay for having unbelievable lighting.
Most of my hi-beam usage is when crossing the desert. There are many time where I don't shut off the hi-beam for 100mi. or more!

But, if you live in a more urban area, the HID hi-beam can be a PITA due to the re-strike time. For instance, if you are passing or have an oncoming vehicle and you shut down the hi-beam, you can get a 50% brilliance (quite good light) re-strike if you turn the hi-beam on again within 30sec. or so of the shut-down. And you will get full brilliance in an additional 15sec.
Much more than a 30sec. down-time and it will be a total re-start.

After 2+yrs. of having a HID hi-beam, I've come to the realization that it's not worth it if you live/ride mostly in an urban setting.