Chain Getting Loose

[Aussie Sprint]

Howdy all,
I brought a 2007 Sprint ST 5000 kms ago. It had 37,000 km on clock when I got it.
I haven't cleaned the chain yet (3 sided brush is in the mail...) and I plan on giving it a really good going over next weekend.
The chain is fairly dirty, and since buying it I've given it a good oiling with MOTOL Factory line every 600 kms or so.

The issue is I've adjusted the chain three times in this 5000 kms. The book say 35-40mm of slack - which is what I've been setting it too, but after a short while I find 60mm of slack.
It keeps on getting loose. I use a torque wrench on the locking bolt at the correct tightness - so I'm happy it's not that. I've also been putting a mark on the adjustment collar and the hub to see if that was backing off at all - and it's not.

Why is my chain getting loose?
The chain is in average condition. It has some surface rust, but that is freeing up with the oiling and I'm hoping after the clean next weekend it'll tidy up nicely.

Should I be concerned? Is it just the chain freeing up that is causing it, or could it be something else??

Any idea?

Regards.

[KitNYC]

If the hub is not rotating in the swingarm and the chain is continually loosening up after the first thousand miles or so, the chain is shot. The wear limit on a 20-link section is 321mm. To measure:

•Remove the chainguard.
•Curse the engineers for placing the brake line on top of the chainguard and the bolts exactly where you can't get to them.
•Hang a 10-20 kilo weight from the bottom of the chain.
•Measure along the middle of the top run from the middle of the first pin to the middle of the 21st pin.
•Repeat at various positions along the chain.

If the length is greater than 321mm, the chain needs replaced.

Generally speaking, the chain will loosen up in the first few hundred miles, then not need adjustment frequently (if at all) for thousands of miles. It will begin to require more frequent adjustment again as the time to replace it nears.

Sorry, man, sounds like cleaning won't do much for you and it's about time for a new chain.

Cheers,
-Kit
Hang

[Mickea]

Sounds a bit like chain stretch after the bike has been stood for a while?
If you are checking for tight spots before tightening up? just leave @45mm slack next time and start saving for a new chain and sprocket set.
good luck Mick

[Aussie Sprint]

I'll measure the wear limit as suggested and see. Thanks.

How many kms should I expect from a chain?
Obviously it depends, but if you look after them I'd expect more Han 40,000 kms??

If its shot- what is a good replacement chain and sprocket set?

I was looking at DID x-ring??

[Bella]

The problem is that you have lubed the chain after it has been left dry for too long.. Unless you keep the orings slash xrings lubed they go hard.. Lubing the chain loosens the dirt round the now rock-hard seals they can no longer do their job as they wont expand and any lube that was within the links is squeezed out due to external forces lube in a can doesn't have the viscosity to cope either... That's why you should never lube a oring chain with chain lube.. ! Sounds crazy but if you need the type of canned lube it's already toooo late! the knack is to keep the orings damp and supple that is why a Scott oiler works so well... If you don't have a Scott oiler use fine machine oil and wipe of the excess and spray with a chain wax before you ride... again "Dont Use Chain Lube On An Oring Chain even if its says it's suitable for Orings" its marketing ******** .You don't need fancy cleaning brushes or products.... Bottom line is your chain is fooooked and needs replacing.... How do I know this? Thirty years in the trade and thirty years of riding bikes every day in the UK... Ride Safe

[Grae_ST]

I would accept anything over 30,000Km from a litre + bike... but know riders that have gotten 60,000Km from a good quality chain.

I replaced my chain and sprockets at 35,000Km

(Personally, I always replace chain and sprockets together. But you will find plenty of riders that will replace sprockets every 2nd chain replacement. Up to you to make the call on what you deem to be acceptable safe working limits for you)

[KitNYC]

Bella, your information is suspect, or perhaps just down right wrong. You are aware that there's chain lube inside those o-rings, right? The o-rings are rubber; they don't get damp.

Aussie Sprint, you won't go wrong with DID x-ring, but you'll pay a lot more than I do for my EK 530SRX x-rings. X-rings are much better than o-rings, BTW.

I have just shy of 37,000 miles on my current chain, which I've lubed every 500 or so with DuPont Teflon lube. I don't think you can get this stuff down under, but Lanotec liquid lanolin apparently has very similar properties. My previous chain probably did about 14,000 miles before it was well and truly done. My current chain could probably go another 5,000, maybe 10,000, before it's as bad as the old one was. That's all down to environment, really. The chain before this went through two NYC Winters full of salt and snow; this one's only seen salt twice in the three and a half years it's been on the bike.

Cheers,
-Kit

[Aussie Sprint]

Thanks for the info all.

I'm keen to get an X Chain from DID, and want to get the sprockets at the same time. Cheap insurance!

It looks like my chain is an OEM one - and it appears like it is a continuous chain. Can anyone confirm this??

My VIN# is: 284862.

The maint book and Haynes manual says that you need to remove the swing arms to take a continuous chain off. That sounds extreme. I was thinking I could cut it with some bulk cutters, or use a dremil to cut though it. Thoughts?

This is the kit I was thinking about getting:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tchlink:top:en

[roadrunsl]

Changing the sprockets is a must, because they are worn too. Not changing them leads to shorten the life of the new chain.

You may cut the chain with proper tool, but it is a good idea to remove the swing arm to inspect and lubricate the bearings of the swing arm and mono shock. And it is not that difficult than you think.

My favorite choice for chain is DID X-ring.

Good luck!

[KitNYC]

I thought Triumph stopped using continuous chains while their triples were still 885cc and carburetted, but I could be wrong about that.

Pulling the swingarm does seem a bit extreme to me; there's a maintenance schedule to follow and I'm sure that's on there, but I wouldn't rush to do it early for something as routine as a chain. (But if it's time to do it...)

The "easy" way to get a chain off is to Dremel off the head of a master link pin, then use a chain breaker to push the pin out. If you don't have a master link, you could Dremel both heads off of a regular link and pull it off the back with Vice Grips or pliers or some such.

That kit looks like a really god deal 'til you get to the shipping. Ouch! Still might be a good deal down under though; I hear parts are not cheap there...

Cheers,
-Kit