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Old 12-04-2012, 07:06 AM   #21 (permalink)
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good luck with it!
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:46 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by banjaxxed View Post
My linkage was as seized as this and I also broke a 8mm hex, I'm planning on using some Evinrude marine grease to keep the replacement in better shape.

From what I understand you should have the bolt going the other way around in order to not foul the headers for reinspection?
Not sure what you mean the other way on the bolts. They only fit in one way as they have a machined bit to fit into.
The allen-key or torque head fits inside a coller for a flash fit.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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ah right probably I read hat for another model with a similar problem cheers
No problem, I also think I may as well get this thread re-started as got the winter months to keep me company.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:18 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Hi all,
Thanks for the messages of help and support.
I am still working on bringing this baby back to new and have not given up, just got a bit delayed because of circumstances this end.

I will post some pics tomorrow hopefully of the replacement swing-arm and bits from the donor bike.

I have had all the bits glass-bead shot blasted.
I then had them powder-coated, (except the swing-arm), but a problem arose that has caused me to have the parts re-stripped and prepared differently before I get them powder-coated again.

When alloy goes through an oven, as happens when powder-coating is used, it can create a host of problems.
The main problem I've discovered with alloy, as a compound, has trapped properties held with-in the alloy when it cools after being moulded or pressed.
When heat is applied to this it causes a problem of these contaminates coming to the surface due to the expansion of the alloy part(s).
Contaminates can also penetrate the alloy, hydrogen being a pest of one type to attack alloy metals.

I'll not give a science lesson on this as i'm sure some people in the forum are better placed to explain the science and technical properties of metals in the making and usage.

Anyway as a result, the parts after they came through the powder-coating oven had lots of tiny blisters to the powder which had come from the inner surface to the outer surface.

I've also done some other updates and rebuilt some other parts on the bike which i'll get to on this thread.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:31 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by banjaxxed View Post
My linkage was as seized as this and I also broke a 8mm hex, I'm planning on using some Evinrude marine grease to keep the replacement in better shape.
Good advice and well needed.
Any production line, no matter how advanced or expensive will always cut down on manufacturing/build costs.
A small bit of grease on one nut or bolt to an individual is no problem, but when it becomes millions of nuts and bolts then the cost saving of applying grease becomes very profitable for the manufacturer.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:45 AM   #26 (permalink)
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That bolt for the linkage was steel and the mounts were aluminium right? that has to be loosened, greased and maintained regularly as iron and aluminium alloy are not the best of friends.. steel causes the alloy to oxidize and the oxides are whats jamming the steel bolt tight in there.. had the same problems when pulling a pair of cylinders off an old 1927 Scout that had been sitting without heads for some 60 years. pistons were absolutely swollen with oxide.. let it sit in an oilbath for about a year
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:30 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Twintorsk View Post
That bolt for the linkage was steel and the mounts were aluminium right? that has to be loosened, greased and maintained regularly as iron and aluminium alloy are not the best of friends.. steel causes the alloy to oxidize and the oxides are whats jamming the steel bolt tight in there.. had the same problems when pulling a pair of cylinders off an old 1927 Scout that had been sitting without heads for some 60 years. pistons were absolutely swollen with oxide.. let it sit in an oilbath for about a year
Twintorsk,Well put
And easy to understand, i'm sure people here will know this but if not, you need to know this in even simple laymans terms.
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:13 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Just wanted to say I've been following this post with immense interest. Last year I took the easy way out and let my brother's mechanics (my brother is a Triumph dealer) go through the entire suspension so now the bike rides better than new Still it's interesting to read of the trials and tribulations I've missed
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:04 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I know it is a wee bit late, but for those who may not know about the Bowl of Mice Triumph Service website the following ST 1050 / Speed Triple 955i / Daytona 955i service pages by Nick on the British TriumphTorque forum site may be of assistance:

Sprint ST 1050 http://www.bowl-of-mice.co.uk/SprintSTservice.html

955i Speed Triple http://www.bowl-of-mice.co.uk/Speed3service.html

Daytona 955i http://www.bowl-of-mice.co.uk/DaytonaT595service.html

Nick offers a great number of good tips, how to's, workshop work-a-rounds, as well as great photographs of each stage of a service job. Well worth a visit!


Last edited by DeanRider; 12-15-2012 at 03:11 AM.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:31 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by w8d4it View Post
Just wanted to say I've been following this post with immense interest. Last year I took the easy way out and let my brother's mechanics (my brother is a Triumph dealer) go through the entire suspension so now the bike rides better than new Still it's interesting to read of the trials and tribulations I've missed
I should have had the parts back but got held up, sorry all, will get them photographed and shown in a day or so.
The actual ride is going to feel like a brand new machine, rear handling wise.
I've already done the headset bearings and even that was an immediate difference.

Last edited by stealthmode666; 12-16-2012 at 06:33 PM. Reason: spelling
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