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clutch lever safety switch

12K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  kubbie 
#1 ·
I am replacing the clutch lever assembly on my 1050 with one that does not take a safety switch.
Should i leave alone, or cut it off and insulate the wires?

What difference will it make?

Thanks for any advice. :dunno
 
#2 ·
I know on an '08 you need that switch in the circuit.
With a non-working clutch safety switch(switch contacts closed) your bike may have an occasional very low idle speed, the fuel gauge will not work!! And once the fuel level indicated reaches low, the fuel light comes on and stays on!!!
What will happen if you remove the switch and safe off the wires, I don't know.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Unless things have changed, here's what the safety clutch switch does quoted from the Haynes manual: " The switch is part of the safety circuit which prevents or stops the engine running if the transmission is in gear whilst the sidestand is down, and prevents the engine from starting if the transmission is in gear unless the sidestand is up and the clutch lever is pulled in."

Both the clutch switch and sidestand switch work with the neutral switch. The sidestand switch should allow the engine to crank but not start by cutting power to the coils if the bike is in gear with the stand down. The clutch switch cuts power to the starter motor so the bike will not crank at all. If you bypass the switch by splicing the two wires together you may experience issues as Bruce C stated if the ECU knows when the switch is open or closed. If you cut the wires and isolate, the engine won't run. Some bikes won't allow the engine to run to warm up with the sidestand down even in neutral. I believe some BMW boxers were like this.
 
#7 ·
In my case, the little tab that holds the clutch switch in place slipped and allowed the switch to slide back in it's boss sometime during one particular ride. At that point all was good. After I stopped to re-fuel the bike started normally(contacts were closed when the sw. slipped back), but the fuel gauge did not rise. Figuring this was a normal Triumph happening I continued on my ride. The fuel gauge continued to fall at a normal rate and as it reached low, the fuel light came on. During that ride home, occasionally the idle would drop to 800rpm and almost stall.
When I got home I stumbled across the safety switch had slipped back. After a quick file job on the retaining clip and setting the sw. home, all has been well since.
 
#8 ·
I think the clutch switch on my '08 is gummed up. Sometimes I'll have the clutch in and the bike won't crank, but if I release the clutch, then pull it back in, it'll crank and start.
I really haven't looked into how to clean the switch, if that's even possible. Or is it due for a replacement?
 
#9 ·
I really haven't looked into how to clean the switch, if that's even possible. Or is it due for a replacement?
caddy
The switch is easy to clean.
Remove the clutch lever & perch from the handlebar. Roll the perch over and you will see the plastic clip that holds the sw. into the clutch perch. Push in the clip and slide out the switch.
When you have the switch out you will see that it's a piece of junk with exposed contacts and plunger that is real easy to attract dust.
Clean contacts and metal bridge on the plunger with contact cleaner and you are good to go for another year.

PS!! The switch has two plastic retaining clips on it. One clip has sharp and chiseled edges to retain the sw. and the other clip is more for keeping the sw. snug in it's boss. Be sure to re-install the sw. correctly(I think that's where
I screwed up and wound up with the sw. slipping back and causing all my problems.
 
#16 ·
If you pull the switch out of the lever perch, the switch will be in the same position as when you pull the clutch lever, aka button "out".

What it does to the idle or anything else, I don't know. But it will be able to start without pulling the clutch.
 
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