What to torque the headstock nut to?

[Hawk1340]

I got my 04 ST back from the dealer after some warranty repairs, one thing that I had told them about was a headshake when decellarating, they solution was to really crank down on the headstock nut to the point that I could hardly turn the bike.

I loosened it last night but would like to know the torque value if anyone has a manual available.

Thanks,
John

[JR57]

Hi John, I'd find another dealer or a better mecanic, the manual warns against "over tightening the bearings. 1-Raise and support front of bike. 2 -slacken pinch bolts TOP YOKE ONLY. 3-Slacken headstock top nut. 4-Slacken handlebar clamp screws. 5-adjust bearing freeplay as follows: tighten adjuster nut to 32 NM. - loosen the nut and retighten by hand until any bearing free play is eliminated. "correct adjustment is when bearing free play is eliminated without preloading the bearings (what your dealer did). 6-hold adj. nut and tighten top nut to 65Nm. 7-Tighten top yoke pinch bolts to 20Nm. 8- Tighten handlebar clamp screws to 22Nm. 9-Check that free play has been eliminated, and that the steering can be turned freely from lock to lock without any sign of tightness.Re-adjust if necessary. from Tr manual 10.99

[Hawk1340]

Thanks a million. I am sure my bearings are now screwed up.

Where I am in Huntsville, AL there are 3 dealers within over 100 miles. I choose the closest (bad move) they had my bike for over a month. I choose poorly.

I am goning out to adjust according to your instructions.

Regards,
John

[Stlakid]

If you replace the top bearing with a #7205 Annular contact bearing you will have a better setup. The top bearing in these bikes are not designed for side loading which is exactly what happens when you adjust the play out of the system. It's a poor design. Annular contact bearings are designed for radial and side loading and the number I gave you is a drop in replacement. With it you stand a much less chance of chipping the races and or balls and can actually load the assembly without damage to the bearing.
There is also a tapered bearing available, but it's about 1/16" to wide. It will also work, it's just a bit wider and they can be had for about $10.00. That is a #33205.
I adjust mine by 'HAND ONLY' when it comes to the actual adjustment I use the socket in my hand and tighten is as much as I can, move the bars back and forth a couple of times,(you did repack the lower bearing with grease, right) and then re-tighten the adjusting nut again with the socket in my hand as tight as I can. Then just be sure it doesn't get tightened more when you tighten the lock nut. I still have the original (poor design) bearing in mine ad this procedure keeps them from being overloaded and damaged. My bike is approaching 20K on the odometer with the original top bearing. If it dies, I'm going to change to the 7205 Annular bearing.

[Hawk1340]

Thanks Stlakid,

I have about 11,000 miles on this 04 and had noticed that the headshake was getting worse but that could have been the tire I had put on the front. I may replace the bearings before the fall/winter riding season.

The shop has it so screwed up I am going to have to take the ***** thing apart and start over, bastagies....

Back to the garage just came in for a cold beer :-D