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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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MOSFET Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade

So a week or so ago, I upgraded my R/R from stock to a Shindengen FH010 from a Kawasaki ZX10R. I replaced my stator at the same time, along with the wiring between the R/R and both the stator and main harness. I don't know if it really helped anything; I think it did, but my battery is suspect. The process has been described before, so I won't go into much detail; just a couple of pics and some Sprint-specific observations:

New R/R installed:



New R/R in place. Note fender washer, regular washer, and lock washer. The screw is angled about 15º down and forward, which made it very hard to start while working blind. My friend Filippo suggested making the end of the bolt conical so that it would self-center, though it may be too short for that to work:



New R/R in place. Note that only one mount point can be utilized:



New R/R in place. Top of photo is front of bike:



New R/R in place. Top of photo is right side of bike:



Cheers,
-Kit
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 08:38 AM
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Awesome job, Kit!

I have a question: did the new R/R fit on the Sprint's bracket or did you buy the ZX10R bracket to go with it?
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 09:57 AM
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" I don't know if it really helped anything; I think it did, but my battery is suspect."

Hey you should have taken voltage readings at idle and 4000 RPM to verify charging system is working at all. Therein lies the proof.

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Roxy, thanks! There is no bracket. The original R/R is bolted to the frame in two places. I used one of the original threaded holes to mount the new one. The second hole is maybe half an inch or an inch past where it would need to be for the new R/R.

Ducatiman, I got 12.8V at idle and 13.2V at 2500 and above. But that's with a battery that's sometimes bad enough to keep the bike from being jump started, so I think those readings may not be definitive.

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 02:19 PM
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readings are low, i'd trash that battery and try again.

and the connector, well, you know how i feel 'bout that.

A thread on burnt connector goin on (perpetually) over at VFRD.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i..._1#entry750761

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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I'm putting my terminals inside a Yazaki shell and hoping that'll be tighter. I will check it frequently, and if it gets "melty" I'll hardwire the connection.

I will be replacing the battery with a lithium iron phosphate unit ASAP.

BUT! Here's the golden question: How do I know I don't have a problem that's just going to destroy my fancy new battery?

And another question: Who knows where the primary Ground is on the 955 Sprints? I wouldn't mind making sure mine is good...

Cheers,
-Kit
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 07:24 PM
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the golden answer is: to insure your charging system delivers a stable voltage adequate enough to charge your battery but NOT enough to FRY it. Again...voltage tests will determine this.

Checking system voltage is recommended whenever components are replaced. Its the only way to know for sure that your stator is statoring, and your RR is RR'ing.....unless of course, components start melting/smoking (overcharging) or the battery goes flat (undercharging).

The numbers do not lie. Until you actually check the system with a DVM, you're guessing as to how your mod worked out.

AFA finding the ground, i'd suggest tracing the battery - cable to its end, no?

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
<...>
The numbers do not lie. Until you actually check the system with a DVM, you're guessing as to how your mod worked out.
Well, apparently, the numbers do lie if the battery is sketchy, and checking with a DVM produces useless numbers.

Quote:
AFA finding the ground, i'd suggest tracing the battery - cable to its end, no?
Sure, but I really don't feel like standing outside in the rain, pulling the tank in the dark, and trying to trace it with a flashlight, so I'm hoping someone else who has an '02-'04 Sprint can tell me where it is.

Cheers,
-Kit
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KitNYC View Post
Sure, but I really don't feel like standing outside in the rain, pulling the tank in the dark, and trying to trace it with a flashlight, so I'm hoping someone else who has an '02-'04 Sprint can tell me where it is.
Pansy! Just kidding!

As I recall the ground is to a post/stud on top of the transmission. Like right in the middle of the top.

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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 09:22 AM
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Kit, you need to check the numbers after you put in the new, good battery. Then you will know and have accurate numbers. Obviously if something isn't jiving, you'll want to get your new battery out of there until you can correct it.

I just bought a mosfet R/R myself and the Eastern Beaver factory type connectors. I will be fabricating a bracket that fits the 955 and the new R/R, and putting some rubber spacers on the bolts holding the R/R to help quell vibration. I'm not sure vibration is a huge issue, but for less than $1, why not do it? From there, ducatiman will take over with the hard wiring/crimping. This won't get done until July but when it does, I will post plenty of pics for a good 955 tutorial. I saw Warden Ross' and OnD's on the 1050.
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