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Old 08-21-2005   #1 (permalink)
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Ok, so I am still getting used to my "new to me" 01. It has 13k on the clock and has been a hoot. I have recently adjusted the shift linkage since it seemed to be set rather high for my tastes (previous owner must have been taking his foot off the peg to shift down cause my foot just doesn't bend that way). Now, it appears that the shift lever is hitting the shift linkage to the point where getting into first from N is troublesome. Maybe I have it set to too much "sport" in this current postion...it is finally more comfortable, but now getting into first requires "effort". Wondering if anyone else has had this ailment.
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Old 08-21-2005   #2 (permalink)
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Hi Oyster,
I havent experienced that problem, but does blipping the throttle or rocking forwards and backwards while applying pressure on the gear lever help.

Also is the clutch lever correctly adjusted?

I have had some bikes in the past that required a bit of fiddling to get into 1st but not the ST so far.

They are great fun bikes. :-D

davem
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Old 08-21-2005   #3 (permalink)
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I haven't had any trouble getting into 1st., save for the occasional time where I have to release the clutch and then pull it back in. Then it will go in to 1st. Sometimes I suppose the syncros or the gears might be in the wrong spot.

The only time I've had were getting into 6th. Lengthening the rod to move the shifter down did the trick there.

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Old 08-22-2005   #4 (permalink)
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I haven't had an issue in getting my ST into 1st. Thought sometimes when I do it from nuetral at a stop, it will make a "Clunk" sound. However, that has pretty much been the case with my Sprint since I got it NOS.

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Old 08-22-2005   #5 (permalink)
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This may be your problem...the actuator arm coming out of the transmission may be making contact with the front of the vertical part of the frame, causing it to not move far enough rearward to engage 1st gear.
This happened to me after I had removed the arm to replace the thru-bolt. There was considerable play in the connection, so I replaced the bolt w/ a stainless one w/ lock nut. When I re-installed it I did not get the orientation of the arm correct and it caused the same problem.
When you push down on the foot lever to down shift, the shifter arm on the trans. has to move to the rear, or counter-clockwise. On the upshifts there is no problem. You can remove the shifter arm from the side of the transmission and rotate it on the splined shaft clockwise...this will give it more clearance at the frame contact area. You need to be careful not to go too far. I think the angle of the arm on the foot lever and the shifter arm on the trans. should be fairly close to parallel. I moved mine one spline and solved the problem.

hope this helps,
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Old 08-22-2005   #6 (permalink)
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The arm that clamps to the shift shaft tends to get loose on mine. Tighten the bolt that holds it to the shaft. Be careful since it threads into aluminum.
My shift lever pivot is starting to wear a bit. Keep it greased.
Dolson, bike transmissions don't have synchronizer rings like car transmissions do.
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Old 08-22-2005   #7 (permalink)
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I replaced the thru-bolt on the shifter arm for that very reason...couldn't get it tight enough to reduce the play. I used a stainless steel socket head screw that was long enough to go through the shifter arm with enough threads outside to accept a lock nut. I also put a drop of Loc-tite thread lock on the arm before I installed it...it's snug now...no wobble & positive shifts.

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Old 08-22-2005   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the chatter. The shift linkage assembly is definately not hitting the frame. Clutch is operating well. Getting into and out of sixth, no problem. Looking closer at it last night I could certainly see and feel where the shift lever is binding against the shift linkage--due to the angle on the shift lever, it appears that the location of contact flares the lever out slightly when depressed. I reduced the angle of the shift lever and will test it later tonight. Just seems strange that the shift lever would be so high (it is still below the height of the peg, at the moment). But the idea of swapping sides of the shift linkage sounds interesting to gain the clearance I am looking for--that I can see binding against the frame--what about one moving one of the ball joints to the inside and keeping the other on the outside?

Anyone have shots of the shift lever assembly on this site they want to direct me to? Or shots of the left side of the scoot that shows the amount of drop of the shfit lever?

Maybe I should put blocks on the pegs to get the increased foot angle? :hammer:
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Old 08-22-2005   #9 (permalink)
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I flipped my lid. sorry about that.

Don
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