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Super Moderator
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Moto Grand Prix Favorite Bike: 2002 Sprint ST
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Mudville, OR
Posts: 2,678 Other Motorcycle: 1972 Kaw 175/200 Enduro
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It is very easy to do. Removing the regulator takes a bit of time, but that's how fast you can take the tank off and put it back on.
Once off, you take the regulator and get a socket that will match the mounting flange to support it. You want one that will give full flange support. You will also need a 6mm socket. This fits into the indentation on the spring side.
Put the 6mm into the indentation and the supporting socket on the other side. Put this into a vise and squeeze. The idea being to make a deeper indentation. This will compress the spring over stock, building up more fuel pressure before it pops.
Stock pressure is in the area of 40psi. You want to try for around 60psi before there is really a difference. I have no way to tell the exact psi. If you can figure out a way, let us know. You can get up to probably 100psi, but this would only be good in a blower application. So, it's, "That's about right," engineering as to how far you squeeze.
This modification won't change the mapping, what is does is raise the bar to the richer side on the F/A ratio across the board. As set from the factory, the mapping and F/A ratio are set on the lean side, and adding things like a can and filter are really counter productive in your search for more H/P as they cause the F/A ratio to go further lean. Even with the modified maps from the dealer for the different tunes. What these engines need from the beginning is more fuel, and this is the easiest way to get it.
Upping the pressure won't increase the injector shot duration, but it will increase the amount of fuel per shot, and I believe, a better spray pattern due to the higher pressure, if your nozzles are clean.
Again, this won't give you a big change in H/P. But what it does is to increase the drive-ability. My experience has been, the throttle snatch and stumble from idle to off idle is gone. Crisper throttle response across the board, and in general, a smoother and better running engine.
If you are worried about fuel mileage, my experience is, if anything, mine improved a bit. This, I think, is because a smaller throttle opening is needed for any given throttle application.
I keep very good track of what my mpg is and look at three different applications.
Though I hate the super slabs and avoid them like the plague, this is where I get the worst mileage. Depending on the conditions and speed, (75-85mph) I get 47-49 mpg.
In the low hills like the coastal range, caneing it's backside off rat racing with my idiot friends, I get around 51 mpg.
Hyper touring up in the Cascade Mountain Range in the 80-95+mph range, I've gotten as high as a solid 57+change mpg. Usually around 56 solid.
The absolute best way to go would be to up the pressure and then re-tune with the TuneBoy/TuneEdit program. This way you are upping the F/A ratio above the ideal line, filling in the holes in power curve and then adjusting back down to the ideal F/A ratio line, still maintaining a higher fuel pressure for a better spray pattern and mix.
With mapping, all you are doing is lengthening the shot duration to give a richer shot, using more fuel. With this way, upping the pressure to start with to get a richer mixture and then using the TB/TE program to bring the F/A ratio back down, you would be shortening the shot duration. This is, I believe a more efficient way to go about it.
JMHO
Don
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