Front wheel bearings

This is my first time with a question. Preciate all the posts I,ve read thus far. Thanks all.

Just removed the front tire and was about to check for a warped disk (because I've had brake chatter ever since Running Deals Gap,) when I found the bearings to be rough to turn with a thumb in each side. Almost like they are pitted.

Question 1; How do you remove them?

Question 2; Why is there an aluminum sleeve, with two notches on the side with small seal, between the bearings?

I've been around machinery for about 45 years and always seen a steel spacer between bearings except for the crush spacer on a pinion gear.

Oh' and maybe someone has had pulsing of the front brake.

Any clues?

[ST]

The alloy spacer is there just to prevent any crud gathering inside the cavity between both bearings.

The bearings cannot move anyfurther inside the wheel due to the design and machining of the wheel hub.
With the wheel off and the outer spacers put aside
to remove the wheel bearings i use a 1/2 inch socket extention bar or an alloy drift... remove the wheel and lay it down on 2 lengths of timber on either side of the wheel rim this prevents any damage to the disc rotor.( make sure the wood is high enough to keep the rotors off the floor.)
Put your drift inside the spindle hole... you will then notice the alloy spacer can move off center a tad as you wiggle the drift to locate the edge of the bearing. Using a hammer drive out the bearing and it will come out with the dust seal.
The alloy spacer will drop out.

Turn the wheel over and drive out the other bearing.and seal.
Have a good inspection and clean up.

bike wheel bearings are sealed and dont require greasing but its worth putting a smear of high melting point grease on the outer for the guy who changes them after you...

To refit place the new bearing in place minus the rubber dust seal. Use a socket (the same size of the outer diameter of the bearing but loose enough not to get stuck in the hub) and gently tap it home making sure its going in square till its tight up against the inner hub.

Turn the wheel over and Fit the spacer and the other bearing...( same method again).
The seals ( if the old ones are ok) will gently tap in with the same size socket...tap gently.
Then reasemble the wheel and outer spacers in to the front forks.. Lightly grease the spindle and fit. Check for free wheeling before you put the brake calipers over the rotors... should be as good as new.
1/2 hour job max if you are a godd spanner man.... dealer would charge about £65 in labour here in the UK.

if you are strapped for cash dont buy genuine bearings... on the side of the bearing will be a part number that will cross match at any bearing supplier at a 1/5th of triumphs price. Aftermarket bike ones are made to exact tolerances as triumphs supplier.

Have fun ! :hammer:

[ST]

I forgot to add... bearings are cheaper than rotors so test ride with the original rotors first.... if you still get the pulse its the rotors that have warped. fit new pads at the same time.
The rotors in a warped state would not have helped you wheel bearings in the 1st place..

While the wheels off get the wheel checked for balance too. :wink:

Thank you ST.

So it's only the inner that has the spacer and the outer race fits to a machined shoulder. That clears it up. Thanks much. Jim Bradford

Update;

The large seal and bearing come out ok, but behind the small seal is a retaining ring. And that bearing was the bad one.

Don't you know I only popped the large seal.

65 years old and I still don't know everything. But I ride a Sprint!!!!

Oh, and the spacer was steel, not aluminum as I first thought.
Ride safe all. jb

[ST]

The retaining ring is a new one on me... ive changed em on my last honda and my yam r6 track bike...

Have you sorted the problem???

Yes Ive got it sorted. Thanks ST.
And there is a retaining ring behind small seal.
Bought two bearings but only changed one. (I can use the other on the machines I repair, if needed. $20.)

AND there is no more brake chatter. I wouldn't have guessed that .
Thanks all. Jim