Triumphrat

crlarsen17 · 11-18-2009, 02:50 PM

My regulator/rectifier is fried! Both wire connectors from it totally melted and actually caught on fire as well. So I need to replace all this and saw the FH012AA conversion(thanks O&D) on this forum. The write up from DEcosse is totally awesome! I started to search on Ebay for these regulators had did not have any luck. I stumbled on this website www.roadstercycle.com They will send a FH012AA along with all the wiring for $119 plus shipping. Has anyone used this site? Would this be a good route for me to go?

kubbie · 11-18-2009, 03:29 PM

I haven't done the upgrade, but it is on my to-do list. It is more convenient to have everything in one kit even if you have to pay a little more. If you have the time I'd keep looking on ebay, if not go for the kit its definately the way to go.

pushr0d · 11-18-2009, 04:29 PM

Somewhere in DEcosse's thread is a source for the plugs and wiring harnesses. I don't recall if he listed a source for the R/R.

oldndumb · 11-18-2009, 05:04 PM

Get the plugs and connectors from DEcosee's source.

Try ebay for the R/R.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/07-08-Yamaha-Yzf-R1-Rectifier-Regulator-Charger-fh012aa_W0QQitemZ220512754264QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMo torcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3357959a58

At that price I would hit the buy it now.

You snooze, you lose, because I'll bet someone else in the forum will grab it.

steve speed · 11-19-2009, 02:02 PM

i got my FH021AA from jack, top bloke , but i bought all the harness from eastern beaver , its a very good bit of kit and its thanks to this forum that i found it , and all the info was bang on (you know who you are) charging now is very stable from 14.21 to 14.36v at any revs , the old std regulator was all over the place and on mine the voltage dropped as the revs went up,

std was tick over 13.6 , ,,4000rpm 13.1,,

i used all water proof connectors even from the stator ,and a full size 30amp fuse on the power line to the battery,, now i don't know if its me but it seems to tick over a bit smoother and seems to have a bit more power !!! perhaps its just wishful thinking but that's how it feels !

oldndumb · 11-19-2009, 03:10 PM

It is probably not your imagination thinking that the bike is running better.

I'm not an electrical PHD, so can not explain it, but more than likely the bike is functioning the way the engineers had it figured on paper.....before the accountants cheaped out the electrical system.

GizmoRider · 11-19-2009, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldndumb

I'm not an electrical PHD, so can not explain it, but more than likely the bike is functioning the way the engineers had it figured on paper.....before the accountants cheaped out the electrical system.

o&d....your cynic is showing.

oldndumb · 11-19-2009, 11:50 PM

Ooops.

crlarsen17 · 11-20-2009, 12:25 AM

I guess I snoozed, so I went ahead and got the kit from roadstercycle.com. Jack mailed it out today. I should have it on Monday. I'm removing all the old stuff and getting ready for the new per DEcosse's writeup. I got a question that I couldn't find an answer to in the writeup. Since you run a positive and a negative from the new regulator straight to the battery, what do you do with the two positive and two negative wires that you cut from the old regulator? Do you just cap them off and forget about them?

CLB · 11-20-2009, 10:06 AM

Hook the positive wires to the positive output terminal of the regulator, unfused like Triumph did and Shindengen suggests.

Hook the negative wires to the negative regulator output terminals.
Or:
Cap them off and run the negative R/R lead directly to the battery.

Why would you want a 30 Amp fuse in series with a 35 Amp alternator? The RMS currents are higher still, due to the way the regulator works.
A larger fuse would just pose a greater ignition hazard, and I don't mean spark plugs.

The OEM or Shindengen connection solves all of this.
Someone should drop their Sawzall and pick up a calculator for a few minutes.

Documentation, dedication and support are great.
Now make it safe and reliable.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crlarsen17

I guess I snoozed, so I went ahead and got the kit from roadstercycle.com. Jack mailed it out today. I should have it on Monday. I'm removing all the old stuff and getting ready for the new per DEcosse's writeup. I got a question that I couldn't find an answer to in the writeup. Since you run a positive and a negative from the new regulator straight to the battery, what do you do with the two positive and two negative wires that you cut from the old regulator? Do you just cap them off and forget about them?