Triumphrat

stevecee · 11-16-2009, 05:31 AM

Hi

IN the process of changing the downpipes on my 955i (found a crack around the rear mounting is this normal).

Found that the nuts had rusted badly and were peeling off in layers, have managed to remove all but 2

these are towards the inside of the bike so its impossible to get a pair of mole grips on them to get them out.

Only 1 nut has come off so far, the others have rusted on the stud and both stud and nut have come off. I am thinking of getting new studs and nuts but am wondering if they might rust in the same way, would it be better to get some stainless bolts and use those?

any ideas

Steve

quik_d · 11-16-2009, 10:35 AM

Well whether you get stainless or not i would definitely get new studs and nuts.

non stainless will prob rust the same way, but how old is the bike? That area does just get a lot of crud it's way.

I had a similar problem with a bandit 600 i had, you can get these sockets that go over the nut or bolt head and as you twist them they cut into the metal of the nut or bolt head and grip it. might be worth a shot.

Other than that, WD-40 it every chance you get for a few days or try heating the area up.

Remember to add some copper-slip when putting the new ones in!

dolson · 11-16-2009, 12:03 PM

Get some KROIL from these folks, http://www.kanolabs.com/

Very best stuff on the market.

oldndumb · 11-16-2009, 12:53 PM

Ditto re the Kroil.

KitNYC · 11-16-2009, 07:39 PM

I used PB Blaster instead of Kroil, starting a week or so before doing the actual job. It worked, but it was still a huge pain to do. It involved Vice Grips (as I'm American) and lots of cursing (in the Queen's English, as I figure the bike understands British cursing better).

New studs are a given, assuming you want the new header to stay on.

Cheers,
-Kit

stevecee · 11-17-2009, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quik_d

Well whether you get stainless or not i would definitely get new studs and nuts.

non stainless will prob rust the same way, but how old is the bike? That area does just get a lot of crud it's way.

Remember to add some copper-slip when putting the new ones in!

Bike is a '99, was wondering whether to get new studs / nuts or just get stainless bolts?

have had a tub of copperslip in my toolbox for over 30 years! couldn't do without it.

Steve

KitNYC · 11-17-2009, 04:39 PM

I have to think there's a reason they didn't go with stainless on the studs, and a reason for studs instead of bolts. Those fasteners are exposed to some of the most extreme heat cycling on the bike.

Cheers,
-Kit

oldndumb · 11-17-2009, 06:30 PM

Studs are specified for a more accurate torque as opposed to a bolt, and a high tensile yield.

Removal is easy with a variety of stud remover tools available. Rounded over nuts can also be removed with heat, or special sockets, or a nut splitter.

If you source replacement studs from someplace other than a dealer, take a look at this. It is from my favorite on line fastener reference, Maryland Metrics.

http://mdmetric.com/pdf/studexpl2.pdf

Leave the copaslip for assemblies that the mfgr specifies.

Question, how did something like this happen? Is the bike new to you?

gumbytwo · 11-17-2009, 07:42 PM

Another thing about stainless bolts is that they cannot be graded for strength therefor are rarely ever used in that environment, also they have a tendency to gall- especially when they're exposed to heat.Although I almost always replace the steel nuts on my auto exhaust with stainless, they come off easier next time- they are not exposed to the heat of an exhaust manifold-I would not use them in replacement for the high strength studs in a head!

KitNYC · 11-17-2009, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldndumb

<...>
Removal is easy with a variety of stud remover tools available. Rounded over nuts can also be removed with heat, or special sockets, or a nut splitter.
<...>

Though from what I've seen, removal of the nut/stud assembly is generally accomplished with Vice Grips on the remains of the nut, which is hopelessly rusted onto the stud.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gumbytwo

Another thing about stainless bolts is that they cannot be graded for strength
<...>

I beg to differ. I hunted down A4-spec stainless bolts for my new forks, as I didn't like the rust-prone oxide finish bolts they came with and the more common A2 stainless wasn't rated for the torque required.

Cheers,
-Kit