High output Stator

[thinkjerm]

I have been searching for an upgraded stator for the 2006 Sprint and have not been able to find one yet. Does anyone know if there is someone that makes one? I am looking for an output in the area of 600W.

Currently I am running the following (The output wattage are estimates as I can not recall the exact wattage consumption):
Heated Jacket - 73W
Heated Pants - 46W
Heated Gloves - 23W
Headlights (Dual Low Beam) - 110W
Auxiliary lights - 70W
Rear Lights as running lights - 10W

This leaves 88W for everything else. When the High beam is turned on it brings it down to 33W to run the bike.

I believe that this is an insufficient amount of power to charge the bike while everything is running. The other night I was out riding when I tried to honk my horn and all of the headlights went out.

So needless to stay I either need a high output stator (Preferred) or need to turn off some gear.

Thanks in advance.

[oldndumb]

What ever you do, stay away from esport! They have been known to sell the wrong diameters and defective units.

If it were me, I would do a search for a shop that would take the existing stator and rewind it for you. For that matter, if you had lots of time, and strong fingers, you could do it yourself.

Ricks has an excellent reputation. Email them with your requirements and see what they advise.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

[Bruce C]

How about going this way with an electrical diet. You can get H7 HID conversion kits at $90.00 ea. from these excellent people: www.cqlight.ca/ and drop your constant load from 110W to 70W and get almost twice the usable light for free. I don't know how your yearly New Jersey vehicle inspection will treat a HID conversion (31 years ago I had to worry about it, but not anymore).
You might not need your PIAA's as much with the HIDs, and at only 35W(the PIAAs) for each unit, there isn't too much you can do with them to lessen the load.
Also you can replace your stock incandescent turn signal lamps with LEDs from www.superbrightleds.com. It's not much, but it's something.
Reading the tutorials on heated clothing controllers on a site like www.warmnsafe.com will help you make your decision. You will find that your clothing load is a lot lower than you think with a top-line controller.

Have you read this page to aid you in your calculations?
http://www.powerletproducts.com/supp...ssCapacityView

A stator rewind is good, but not a cure all for an overall weak charging system. This is just my opinion, it's easier to cut your load than beef up the system.

I will be facing the same situation as you in a few weeks.
I am coming from a BMW k1200rs with a 840W, 60 amp. alternator to the Triumph ST's 490W, 35 amp. unit and a set of HID's are one of my first purchases(sure don't know where to put the ballasts though)

[DrTriumph]

Bruce, that is a great HID conversion kit you pointed out. The price that it would be according to the sprint having 2 low beam would be 165.99 though. We have 2 lights so you would have to get the car kit. Still a good price for HID light conversion though.

I think going LED would be a good start on the bike as well.

Dr. T.

[Bruce C]

Originally Posted by DrTriumph

Bruce, that is a great HID conversion kit you pointed out. The price that it would be according to the sprint having 2 low beam would be 165.99 though. We have 2 lights so you would have to get the car kit. Still a good price for HID light conversion though.

I think going LED would be a good start on the bike as well.

Dr. T.

Dr. T

The problem with the car kits is the high voltage(21-27K open circuit volts) wiring(ballast to igniter/igniter to lamp) is very long and you CAN'T cut or shorten the wires without a hi-voltage splicing kit.

I have an e-mail into CQlights about making up a dual light kit for motorcycles. That way it might be a few bucks cheaper than buying two separate kits(cheap SOB,me). I have not received a reply as of yet.

You also have to remember that these are lamp conversion kits(where they put a HID lamp on a standard H7 or whatever base. It's not some mega-buck set-up. A bunch of us on the BMW site got a group buy from CQlight and I don't believe anyone (believe me you would have heard ) had a failure or was not pleased with the results.

Also, a little tip. You want to buy the lowest "K" number or else you will be getting purple light that isn't worth a damn!

[oldndumb]

Originally Posted by Bruce C

A stator rewind is good, but not a cure all for an overall weak charging system. This is just my opinion, it's easier to cut your load than beef up the system.

Reducing the load as you suggest is a logical alternative. I am not a fan of HID's in the Sprint because you are still using the same projector lens, but I realize that there are some that have done it and are satisfied.

But I'm not sure I understand your comment that a rewound stator is not a cure for a weak charging system?

[Bruce C]

Originally Posted by oldndumb

Reducing the load as you suggest is a logical alternative. I am not a fan of HID's in the Sprint because you are still using the same projector lens, but I realize that there are some that have done it and are satisfied.

But I'm not sure I understand your comment that a rewound stator is not a cure for a weak charging system?

I could very well be wrong, but it's my belief that you need to increase the power of the magnets in the rotor to get a lot more out of the charging system. And it's a lot more than just making more or larger windings on the stator.
And the magnet end of the alternator system is never mentioned in a fix.

[Pcdabbler]

Alternator is rated at 35A output according to the Triumph manual, works out at 490w at 14V, so not as bad as you think.
Why not fit a voltmeter to your current set up and keep an eye on things ?

[COBlue]

Originally Posted by Pcdabbler

Why not fit a voltmeter to your current set up and keep an eye on things ?

Or the Acumen voltmeter/gear indicator, eh OnD?

[WardenRoss]

Here are some good prices on HID stuff:

http://ddmtuning.com/ddmhidkits.html

Adding a better R/R (Yamaha FJR type) and larger wiring to the battery will help.

But one concern that you can't overcome is the small 10 amp battery.