Can someone tell me what this means??

[Spyda]

I just bought the 2006 Sprint from Stinger that was advertised in the classified section. I picked it up yesterday in SC and trailered it back to my house in NC. When I was putting it on the trailer, one thing that I thought was odd was that when I put the key in the on position, the gauge cluster didn't light up (at all), but when I switched the ignition button to the on position, the cluster lit up and I was able to start the bike.

I got home and got it off the trailer, and the bike started fine so that I could drive it the 50 feet up my driveway into the garage.

I went outside this afternoon to take it for it's inaugural spin around the neighborhood and the bike will not start. The cluster lights will not light up and the needles are basically going crazy. I've posted a movie of what's going on to YouTube. Does anyone have any ideas of what could be going on? It's been on a tender now for about 20 minutes and I'm going to go out in a bit to try again, but something tells me that's not the problem.

HELP!!!!

Edit, the screw that holds the ignition switch was missing when I bought it which is why it rotates.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i17NQ1PSUOk

[Pcdabbler]

Looks like a break in the kill switch cabling from the handlebar to the wiring harness under the fairing, or the kill switch itself. The cable tends to fail where it is cable tied near the plug/socket at the end. Cable tie cuts through the wiring at around 12000 miles... follow the cable down and have a careful look.

[Spyda]

^ Thanks. The wire looks intact.

I just tried to jump start the bike from another m'cycle battery and although the cluster lit up, I didn't get the bike started. Here's another vid. The Sprint behaved the same with and without the track bike idling.

Also, just to throw in another battery-related variable, the seller did a rectifier mod that I'm not familiar with which may or may not have anything to do with what's happening.

Does this additional info help?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbZ3I1EjL-o

[Spyda]

Ok. Update 3. I hooked the Sprint battery up to my car battery (didn't start the car while it was connected to the bike). The bike still will not turn over. FWIW, I left it hooked up for about 15 minutes and tried again with the same results. What else can I do?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZGSa78NWz0

[oldndumb]

Someone might have a better crystal ball than I do, but my suggestion is to take care of the basics first. This means repairing the obvious, and then do a systematic check of the start/charge circuit. Start with the true condition of the battery via a load test. Then progressively do some continuity checks (batt disconnected). Physically wiggle the harness as you do the tests. Also do not assume that a fuse has continuity solely from a visual. And do not assume that relays are properly seated. Pull them, inspect the blades and sockets and reinstall. Let us know how it goes.

BTW, did I see the switch gear rotating on the bar? Not good.

Can you find out from the previous owner what the R/R mod was?
I suspect it was to increase the wire gauge or maybe a swap to a different brand R/R. Neither should be the cause of your problem if they were done correctly.

Hopefully, you will soon have varoom sounds instead of relay clickings.

BTW, the possible wire break that Pcdabbler suggested can be impossible to verify just by looking at it. You have to test it.

[stinky93071]

First guess would be dead bat. until I saw you move the kill switch, looks like you have a short in there somewhere.

Also you are going to have to crank on it to get the bike to start, Do not think that a touch of the starter will fire it.. You have to hold it a 5+ sec or so (2 3 cranks) before it will start cold. when hot, ya a touch will fire it but not cold.

[TotalPanic]

stand down and bike in gear? I'm sure it is not, but it never hurts to ask. - EDIT: i see the neutral light from the vids, so ignore the question

Any lights go on that shouldn't?

And you need to hold the starter button for a few secs on pre 07 models as far as i know. Mine is 05 and it takes a few sec to start when cold.


GK

[KevyKev]

OND---you saw the same as I did. That switchgear/kill switch/starter button housing should NOT be able to move around like that. I would suspect a short or broken connections somewhere there that has "just enough" connection periodically to give you the goofy gauge actions. Once first engaging the ignition, the gauge needles will sweep across the face and then return to start position, and if you listen carefully you will here the fuel pump prime. I'm just guessing here, but I'm with OND in that if nothing else, that switch housing probably needs attention and/or replacement along with the wires if they were pinched/compromised.

[DEcosse]

Judging by the last one, you simply have a battery that is beyond help - it needs to be replaced.
With your car battery connected across, you can hear the pump prime (& stop) when you first turn on the ignition (this is normal on both counts); then you hear the starter try to turn the motor, but there is insufficent current available.
I would take the battery out completely & put your track bike battery in there. Use the car battery with jumper cables also connected to it for additional cranking power,

You need to fix that bar switch - that is somewhat of a red herring, especially in the first movie - but absolutely need to open that up, make sure there is no possibility of a wire shorting to the bar and that nothing is broken.
There should be a pin on the switchgear that locates in a corresponding hole in the bar - the pin is clearly gone, Remove the screws from the switch, wrap electrical tape around the bar (inboard of the edges of the switch so it won't be seen) then re-insert the screws & tighten it down. The additional thickness of a few layers of tape will stop it rotating (and also stop the wires shorting against the bar). Do this BEFORE you go any further.

The first movie was a combination of completely dead battery and the switch making & breaking with insufficient power to complete the instrument test cycle.

With the indications in the third movie, there is no problem associated with clutch or sidestand switches - the kill maybe affecting thins but I don't think so.
Normal start switch operation is that the headlights will go out when you thumb the start switch.

When you said at end of movie 3 "I'm still hearing that same noise ...." to what are you referring?

Here is detail of the 'charging mod' - http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-de...-solution.html
If executed properly then that should not cause any issues to the problem you'e having. The PO appears to have connected it by my preferred method, directly to the battery and with an in-line fuse, so appears he may have done things correctly.

Make sure that the battery terminals are good and tight.
You could try putting your -ve jumper cable directly on the engine ground stud if you can reach it
If necessary, charge up your racebike battery overnight before you attempt to use it - or just go get a new one in the morning for the Triumph, it's going to need one anyway. Buy a GOOD one - spend a few extra dollars for a quality one.
After you get it running, we can check on the general condition of the charging system. Regulators are notorious for failure on these bikes.

[sprintrat07]

Only speaking from past (non-Triumph) experience - Electrical problems can be most difficult to diagnose without the proper test equipment and the knowledge on how to use it. They can become very costly and can lead to major systems damage and most importantly can become very, very dangerous ... fire risks etc. My general rule is that if it's electrical and I've posted a question about how to diagnose or fix it and see as many possible causes as those posted, take it to the experts - Money well spent in my book. I chased many electrical problems by changing parts that were not the cause before I learned my lesson ... age helps too .... Good Luck - Slainte!