Originally Posted by DEcosse
.... one of the key assets for this kit is that it involves very few custom parts ...
I'd like to revist this statement from the opening post, which will help define all of the requirements for customization.
Actually there are a sum total of ZERO
parts that have to be made from scratch, or even need the complexity of any mechanical drawings!
There are 4 parts that do require some minimal machining work - I would estimate all four should be readily done in an hour by anyone with access to a lathe and a mill.
(can even be mini bench top tools or simply take them to a machine shop).
So take these parts for execution all at the same time - they can even be done while your Sprint is still intact (unless you utilize your original Sprint axle spacer(s) as donors) other than the time you need to remove the ignition - which can be re-installed again, even modified.
These parts and their modification:
1. Ignition Assembly
Machine 5mm off the locking pin (both pin & housing)
Elongate the mounting holes with a file to fit the TLS clamp posts.
2. TLS Top Clamp
Machine 10mm off the mounting posts
Optional - add holes for bar risers.
3. Axle Spacer(s)
One required for early model (12.5mm long)
Two required for late model (13.5mm long)
Either sacrifice the original(s) from your Sprint or buy new ones if you want to keep your bike operational. ($11 for new spacer)
In either case, just machine to length.
4. Collar Nut (Early Model Only requires this - late does not)
Machine collar nut length to remove 14.5mm.
Leaves new length (from inside face of flange) at 58mm, new net will be 43.5mm
5. Bottom Triple Mod (Optional)
If you're going to the machine shop anyway, you may wish to get the OEM steering stop 'nubbins' removed from the bottom triple. This is not necessary unless you choose to use the option mentioned to mount the new stops on this component.
Regardless, it could be done at home with simple tools - file alone even - but I throw this on the list in case you would like to have it done in a mill.
6. Hayabusa Fork Mod - for TL fender (Optional)
This does not need to be done on TL forks (obviously!) and only done on 'Busa if you wish to use TL fender rather than 'Busa.
It can be done at home - does not require sophisticated machining.
Tools required - hacksaw, file, 5mm (or 13/64) drill and M6 tap.
Trim the top (original) front fender mount down flush with the mounting bracket; add an M6 threaded hole per the picture above.
Note that this could still be utilized for a 'Busa fender simply by adding spacer to replace the material removed in the first step.
Once you have the parts above ready to go, the actual 'swap' project can easily be accomplished in an afternoon or plan for a leisurely weekend project.