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Speed Triple Forum Rants and ravings about the best naked triple on the planet!

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Old 11-15-2012, 10:34 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonshinerunner View Post
I use a 10/30W. The reason being is for better fuel economy, quicker revs etc. Semi synthetic. The recommend oil for my bike is Mobil 1 but here in Australia for 4 litres it is $100.00. I can buy other brands for around $38.00 for five litres.
A thicker oil would be good in summer here in Australia (plus 48 degree Celsius, 118.4 degree Fahrenheit) but my bike seems to like the thinner oil but I suppose as it gets more and more km's (miles) on it the thicker oil would help with clearances. It only has 100,000km's (60,000miles so far) I really think it depends on how you ride(hard or just cruising) and what temperature you mostly ride in and condition of the bikes engine.
Something to keep in mind is that oil weight is based off the engine operating temp, not ambient temps, so if a warm Triumph engine runs at 210 degrees F, that's what the weight is being measured against. Between summer when it's 100 degrees F out, and winter when it is 40 degrees F, how much does the internal operating temp of the engine actually change? Not much, so weight doesn't matter too much, but cold-temp viscosity does because its important to get the engine lubricated early.

All engines like thinner oils because they offer less resistance. They also feel harder, if that makes any sense. So long as you keep the oil within spec you'll be okay, but I'd stick with a 40 because its the middle range between 30 and 50. Oils also "shear down" over time, so they go from a heavier weight to a lighter weight, so it's good to start a bit heavy knowing the oil will become lighter with use. This is more of an issue with Dino oils vs synth, but many oils that are labeled synth are actually blends, so it's something to be aware of.

I don't know if you get Rotella T in AUS, but you might want to look into it fora a less expensive option.

Last edited by Sayantsi; 11-15-2012 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:50 PM   #62 (permalink)
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FWIW, you REALLY shouldn't use car oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch. Having said that, do what you want...
I appreciate the input. Look, I understand this is a touchy subject & doNot want to pick a fight. I was just wondering if there really is a difference in the synthetic oils in terms of additive packages that justifies the expense of the JASCO rated vs. car oils.

My other bike is air-cooled and operates at a very high temperature compared to the Daytona engine. I am running Kendall 20w-50 Dino in it and change it out every 2,500 miles, sooner if I run it above 250-260deg F. I specifically am running Dino in that bike because of the clutch system and engine design for this particular model can lead to clutch problems if Synthetics are used. For the Triumph I really am trying to find a good synthetic in one grade that will handle the climate I'm in & help preserve the Daytona's engine. This Trumpet had really been abused by the previous owner.

Thanx to all for all the great advice on this forum!!!
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:02 PM   #63 (permalink)
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If it's real hot where you are I'd use 15w50 full syn of the brand of your choice. Where I live 85f is pretty darn hot and that's only a few days out of the year so I use 10w40 full syn. I also use motorcycle specific oil 'cause that's what Triumph recommends. I know lots of people have apparently had no problems using autombile engine oil, I'm also quite certain no one, no one has ever had a problem because they used bike oil. I still can't figure out why riders will spend hundreds if not thousands on exhausts and suspension work not to mention dress up bling, and cheap out over an extra 50-60 bucks for an oil change.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:18 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by VegasChinois View Post
I appreciate the input. Look, I understand this is a touchy subject & doNot want to pick a fight. I was just wondering if there really is a difference in the synthetic oils in terms of additive packages that justifies the expense of the JASCO rated vs. car oils.
Not trying to pick a fight either, sorry if it came across that way! The biggest difference between car oils and motorcycle oils is that the first concerns with car oils are fuel efficiency and emissions which means as little friction as possible so a lot of friction modifiers. These friction modifiers will, over time, likely make your clutch wear our prematurely as the friction is reduced. Again, having said all this, and I understand you looking for input and that's what the forum is for, in the end it will be up to you and what possible risks you are willing to assume with your clutch. If you had a dry-clutch Ducati, for example, this would be a no-brainer.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:45 PM   #65 (permalink)
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I've used Mobil 1 15/50 (Non M/C specific) for more than 20,000 miles in my bike, and at 43,000 miles, the clutch is fine. There is a ton of info out there, so do some research, and make your own informed decision. Any oil that has Energy Conserving on the label should not be used in a wet clutch. I think M/C oils are a great way of separating the consumer from his money...
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:57 PM   #66 (permalink)
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http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/


I chose this page because of it's clear description of "What is and Why"? I do not personally use Amsoil but I'm sure if you do you will be in good company.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:43 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed3 View Post
I've used Mobil 1 15/50 (Non M/C specific) for more than 20,000 miles in my bike, and at 43,000 miles, the clutch is fine. There is a ton of info out there, so do some research, and make your own informed decision. Any oil that has Energy Conserving on the label should not be used in a wet clutch. I think M/C oils are a great way of separating the consumer from his money...
And this from a man who freely admits to waisting his money on high test gas to throw on this fire when we all know regular works just as well!
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:44 PM   #68 (permalink)
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MCN's Conclusions


In speaking to a number of people involved in the production, marketing and distribution of motorcycle-specific oils, we could not find anyone who could present a valid argument for discrediting the testing done by Dr. Woolum. In general, they all tried to turn the conversation another direction by bringing up other possible advantages to using their products, while ignoring the viscosity-retention question. Yet without exception it is their own advertising that consistently brings the subject up, touting the special shear-stable polymers as the primary reason motorcyclists should purchase their products.
It is this practice to which we take exception, as we have been unable to find evidence to support these claims. In short, it seems to be nothing more than a clever marketing ploy designed to enhance their products' image and separate motorcyclists from their money.
MCN is ready to print any research or test results provided by the oil companies to support their claims of superior viscosity retention, with this one proviso: The comparisons must be against actual, SG-rated oil products that can be purchased off the shelf at the average auto parts store. Tests against generic, basic-stock mineral oil or against the lower-rated SE and SF oils would lack any credibility in a real-world context. Despite more than six months of research, reading all the claims and counter-claims printed by dozens of industry experts and lubrication experts, MCN cannot and does not purport to know all there is to know about the differences between automotive and motorcycle oils. However, what we do know is that we can find no substantive evidence that using a high-quality, name-brand automotive oil in an average street motorcycle is in any way harmful or less effective in providing proper lubrication and protection than using the more expensive, motorcycle-specific oils.

Whole article here http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:50 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubber biscuit View Post
And this from a man who freely admits to waisting his money on high test gas to throw on this fire when we all know regular works just as well!

Guilty as charged! HT has a higher flash point, or something!
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:57 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubber biscuit View Post
And this from a man who freely admits to waisting his money on high test gas to throw on this fire when we all know regular works just as well!
LOL, I started going there and decided not to...but glad someone did!
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