How do I check my Alternator? - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
» Main Menu

Discussion Forums
 » Twins
 » Tiger
 » General
 » RAT

Features
 » Blogs

Motorcycle.com Links

Contribute
 » Photo

Motorcycle Forums
» Insurance
» Sponsors
» Our Partners
»ATV Reviews
»Motorcycle Games

Speed Triple Forum Rants and ravings about the best naked triple on the planet!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-13-2008, 08:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
Grand Prix 500
Main Motorcycle: '06 Speed Triple
 
cardc26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 109
How do I check my Alternator?

I have an '06 speed triple, I took it out for a ride today and after an hour I stopped for a light and when I engaged the clutch the bike stalled. To make a long story short I got stuck and when I got the bike home there is no juice flowing into the battery from what i can tell and the bike is running purely off the battery juice. How do I check to see if my alternator is working? If it is not how do I replace it? I don't even know where it is on the bike or if there is anything else to check besides the fuses which I didn't find any blown ones.

Also if someone maybe has a pdf file from the manual that explains how to do this that would be great!
__________________
Loud Pipes Save Lives!

Last edited by cardc26; 06-13-2008 at 08:59 PM. Reason: forgot to add something
cardc26 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-14-2008, 05:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
13
Senior Member
Powerbike
Main Motorcycle: BRITTEN
 
13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: nearby the sky
Posts: 371
Other Motorcycle: 955i
Alt inspection: disconnect battery; disconnect plug and booted ground; remove cover; remove alt brushes, inspect for 4mm minimum brush length; if needed, clean slip rings with solvent and touch-up with fine sandpaper if not smooth; replace rubber rings if damaged. If Triumph doesn't sale brushes/ voltage reg/ rectifier, almost any automotive alternator shop could match yours (tell them ahead of time you don't want your alternator body painted, as some will do as a "courtesy" - painted metal runs hotter).

Leak test: turn off ignition; disconnect battery ground; set multimeter to highest Amp range; connect multimeter ground lead to battery ground, positive lead to disconnected ground cable; Clicking down on meter Amp range, a current flow of no more than 0.1Ma should be observed. If more, you have a short. Disconnecting> reconnecting electrical components, one at a time, while observing anticipated Amp drop, will help isolate short.

Output test: warm engine to operating temp; set meter to 12V DC range; connect corresponding positive> negative leads to battery; at idle, voltage should be close to 14V; rev to 5000RPM (in neutral, right), Voltage should read around 15V. If outside this, suspect regulator, rectifier or alt windings...

Use dielectric grease (Vaseline) on reassembly to thwart corrosion.

Hopefully, it's something simple (corroded, broke, loose connectors, etc.) on such a new bike (unless left in weather for extended period without a walk).

Big name auto part stores around here provide free charge system test. Just observe that tester connected properly without damage to bike! Hope this helps!
__________________
SPEED SAVESİ
13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-14-2008, 08:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
Grand Prix 500
Main Motorcycle: '06 Speed Triple
 
cardc26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 109
RE

Hey thanks for the speedy reply. Question I had was before I go taking my cover off of my engine is there a way to check if the problem is in the stator / rotor or the rectifier? How do I check if there is current coming into the rectifier or if the rectifier itself is just bad?

I traced out the wiring and there are three yellow wires in one connector which is where the power is coming in from the alternator, then another connector with two black that goes to ground, then two red that go into the fusebox. What I am trying to do is see if there is current coming in on the yellow wire when the alternator rotates or not. How do I check that with a multi-meter?
__________________
Loud Pipes Save Lives!

Last edited by cardc26; 06-14-2008 at 12:45 PM.
cardc26 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2008, 12:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
13
Senior Member
Powerbike
Main Motorcycle: BRITTEN
 
13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: nearby the sky
Posts: 371
Other Motorcycle: 955i
Let me check the schematic when I can see straight and get back with you on the wire colors.
__________________
SPEED SAVESİ
13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2008, 12:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
SuperStock
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 251
Your three wires from the alternator supply the "raw" AC voltage to your reg/rectifier. You should be able to disconnect them from the reg/rectifier and measure the AC voltage across any pair - should be around 18 volts or better at idle and increase with speed to as much as 50-70 volts ac. Exact voltage is not too important - it just HAS to be equal between any two of the wires. If this is the situation, your alternator (stator, actually) is probably just fine.
Assuming that to be ok, check that connections are good - no melting, discoloration or burning - and then you'll probably find that the reg/rectifier is bad.

You should also check the main fusebox to insure all fuses are good.

13, your instructions are pretty much dead on for the older speedy, but the newer ones have reverted from a proper automotive alternator to a traditional crappy total loss alternator - no brushes, no field windings - just a big rotating magnet. And I'd tend to think that 15 volts is probably too high for any vintage - I know at least a couple of 1050 speedies have measured 14-14.5 volts under all conditions, from idle to max.
__________________
Be nice to America or we'll bring democracy to YOUR country...
vinnyf is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2008, 05:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
Grand Prix 500
Main Motorcycle: '06 Speed Triple
 
cardc26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 109
Problems getting worse and worse.

That's a great idea. Today I started the bike and put the voltmeter to each yellow wire two at a time and got 0 volts so i don't know if that means my alternator is bad. I had also read somewhere that if you connect one wire on the meter to each yellow wire one at a time and the other side to ground and check for continuity there should be none, if there is the alternator is bad, is this true?

Second question, is there a way to test if my rectifier has gone south or not? I asked a dealer and they told me there is no way to test it which made me wonder if they are just gonna start swapping parts at my expense.

Third is does anyone know where I might be able to get a rectifier and alternator at a reasonable price besides the dealer?

FYI I thought you guys might like to hear this. I called a dealer and told them what happened and they told me that I most likely need a new battery which is $100-150 because batteries only last 2-3 years anyway even though I have never had an issue with the battery once. Then assuming that it is the rectifier that cost $300-350. Then they charge a diagnostic fee of $95 which they will credit toward the repair so minimum they will charge me for 1-2 hours labor which is $95/hour. They also said if it is the alternator that is bad, that is over $400 (I hear a cash register in the background). I really appreciate the help so far from the community and I am hoping the information keeps coming.
__________________
Loud Pipes Save Lives!

Last edited by cardc26; 06-15-2008 at 02:16 PM.
cardc26 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2008, 06:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
13
Senior Member
Powerbike
Main Motorcycle: BRITTEN
 
13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: nearby the sky
Posts: 371
Other Motorcycle: 955i
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnyf View Post
...newer ones have reverted from a proper automotive alternator to a traditional crappy total loss alternator - no brushes, no field windings - just a big rotating magnet...
Thanks for the update Mr. V!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cardc26 View Post
...[a] voltmeter to each yellow wire two at a time and got 0 volts ...

[b] if you connect one wire on the meter to each yellow wire one at a time and the other side to ground and check for continuity there should be none, if there is the alternator is bad, is this true...

[c] is there a way to test if my rectifier has gone south or not? I asked a dealer and they told me there is no way to test it...

[d] does anyone know where I might be able to get a rectifier and alternator at a reasonable price besides the dealer...

[e] dealer told me most likely need new battery which is $100-150 because batteries only last 2-3 years anyway...

[f] assuming that it is the rectifier that cost $300-350. Then they charge a diagnostic fee of $95 which they will credit toward the repair so minimum they will charge me for 1-2 hours labor which is $95/hour. They also said if it is the alternator that is bad, that is over $400 (I hear a cash register in the background). I really appreciate the help so far from the community and I am hoping the information keeps coming.
Had similar problem to yours with my old beemer - turned out THE STARTER MOTOR had to be cleaned, which I did, and eliminated all these electrical anomalies.

a. 0 Volts doesn't sound good. On such a new bike, I'd double check wiring, fuses and all that...

b. That'd be a alternator winding continuity test, don't have diagram for '06 to verify wire colors...

c. The Rectifier basically converts AC to DC... it may be the rectifier is built into alternator and not easily tested (but not sure on your '06). I've gotten good results with cleaning alternators with (plastic safe, non-conductive) electronic spray.

Rectifier test: You're basically testing that the diodes are allowing current "one way" as spec'd. Place one lead of meter (or test light) to positive lead on rectifier. Touch the other lead one at a time to each of the terminals of rectifier. At this point you'll either have continuity or not (but it should be the same with all the AC terminals). Swap test leads (still working with the positive terminal of the rectifier) and repeat the test. This test should have the opposite result.

d. Shop around online (recommend new, not use electronic parts - don't buy someone else's headache)...

e. Make sure charging system operating properly (so you don't fry new battery). After which, new battery won't hurt (after going through a few NY Winters). I've had sealed and unsealed batteries last 5 years, but they usually don't. Get a Battery Tender (slow, low voltage charger with automatic off) if you don't have one...

f. Besides the thrill of a cash reward for figuring out how your bike works, there's the confidence of knowing you'll be able to fix it on the road if needed.
__________________
SPEED SAVESİ
13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-16-2008, 01:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
SuperStock
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 251
Smile

Yeah, as 13 said, 0 volts doesn't sound good. Are you sure your meter is set for AC, not DC? I'd be a little surprised - just a little - to find all three sets of windings open. They can be checked with an ohmmeter - should read an ohm or two across each pair. Again, exact reading isn't important, as long as it's equal. And resistance to ground should be infinite.

For once, your dealer is right - rectifier/regulators have enough circuitry inside them that the easiest way to check them is by substitution. Good news is that most modern bikes use a very similar electrical system, so if you're a little adventurous you can swap out your rectifier/regulator for similar ones from Honda or Kawasaki or probably any number of Japanese machines. Some of the fancier ones use a field coil, but they'll have additional wires. Ones compatible with our speedy will have 5 wires - three of one color, usually yellow, and 2 for output. Connectors will be different so you'll have to do some splicing. But they appear ALL the time on eBay - picked one up last year for under $20, worked just fine. I wholeheartedly agree that it's a crap shoot buying used electronics, but with that sort of price differential, you could afford to buy a couple and still be way ahead.

There are a number of outfits supplying aftermarket stators (alternators) for our bike - there's a writeup over on "another" forum about replacing the stator and recommending a specific aftermarket unit - see

http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums...p?topic=7388.0

Again, a LOT cheaper than OEM, and replacing it is not a big deal.

And yes, a battery that's 2-3 years MAY well be at the end of its life, but I wouldn't replace it unless it was tested and found to be dying. Then again, as you may have noted from above, I'm a cheap SOB...
__________________
Be nice to America or we'll bring democracy to YOUR country...
vinnyf is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2008, 12:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
Grand Prix 500
Main Motorcycle: '06 Speed Triple
 
cardc26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 109
RE

Well I found a replacement alternator/stator for sale on this web site:
http://www.electrosport.com/street/s...reet_61700.php

They are both around $100. I sent an email to the company and was told the rectifier will work with my bike. I fired off another email about the alternator. To test the meter I put it in my wall socket and got 120V so I know for a fact it is working. I checked and the meter shows between 1.5 and 2.5 ohms resistance between all of the wires coming from the alternator but still got 0 Volts when the bike is running AC. I also checked for continuity with ground and found there is. I also tried taking off the alternator cover and oil started coming out, at that point I decided to put it back on and let the dealer look at it tomorrow. I have the service manual and nothing is mentioned in there about oil being in the alternator so now I am wondering if a seal let go and let oil into the alternator or if it is supposed to be in there for lubrication. Anybody have any suggestions on that?

See this section of the manual:
http://www.triumphrat.net/attachment...1&d=1213672063
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Alternator.pdf (144.5 KB, 254 views)
__________________
Loud Pipes Save Lives!
cardc26 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2008, 12:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
SuperStock
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 251
Haven't had Speedy's alternator cover off yet, but on many bikes a LITTLE oil - an ounce or two - in the alternator cover is perfectly normal.

Continuity to ground isn't. Sorry.
__________________
Be nice to America or we'll bring democracy to YOUR country...
vinnyf is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter your valid email address, that can receive an automated confirmation message. Otherwise, you won't be able to gain full access.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to check alternator on '95 Tiger gosling1 Tiger Workshop (archive) 3 01-15-2008 05:03 AM
Exhaust...check, oil change...check, alarm...check rastataoist Triumph SuperSports 9 03-02-2007 07:17 PM
How do you check the alternator is ok ?? Tiger-G Tiger Workshop (archive) 8 11-22-2006 04:34 PM
Alternator Anyone? Sport Sprint Forum 22 03-11-2005 08:05 AM
alternator Daytona Deliberations 0 05-01-2004 01:30 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:44 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Motorcycle News, Videos and Reviews
Honda Grom Forum Harley Davidson Forum Honda 600RR Forum Kawasaki Forum Yamaha R6 Forum Yamaha FZ-09 Forum
1199 Panigale Forum Roadglide Forum Honda CBR1000 Forum Vulcan Forum Yamaha R1 Forum Yamaha R3 Forum
Ducati Monster Forum Harley Forums Honda CBR250R Forum ZX10R Forum Star Raider Forum Yamaha Viking Forum
Suzuki GSXR Forum V-Rod Forums Honda Shadow Forum Kawasaki Motorcycle Forum Star Warrior Forum KTM Duke 390 Forum
SV650 Forum BMW S1000RR Forum Honda Fury Forum Kawasaki Versys Forum Drag Racing Forum Ducati 899 Panigale Forum
Suzuki V-Strom BMW K1600 Triumph Forum Victory Forums Sportbikes BMW NineT Forum
Volusia Forum BMW F800 Forum Triumph 675 Forum MV Agusta Forum HD Street Forum Suzuki GW250 Forum
Yamaha Motorcycles Victory Gunner Forum Honda Vultus Forum HD LiveWire Forum Ninja H2 Forum Ducati Scrambler Forum Kawasaki Ninja 250SL Forum

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.