- second problem: out of 3 holes for mounting screws only 2 line up with holes in backplate; one on the left side of connector cutout is too low. After a lot of deliberation I used only 2 screws - mount is strong enough, and trying to oval the other hole will just weaken plastic to point of flimsy hold. Picture above shows 2 screws used.
After fixing backplate I put the instrument panel back, secured with the screw and plugged connector. Flyscreen is fastened with 3 screws going into 3 holes in corners of the backplate and we're done.
Side view of mounted flyscreen below.
It is a little too forward for the '07 lights - both striple and '08 speedy have light domes more elongated, so it fits better (front of light/glass is about inch farther forward). Anyway I like this look - flyscreen seem to hover lightly attached above the lights.
Effectiveness? Good enough for me. It moved direct stream of air from my torso to upper chest/shoulder area, with diffused air touching below. Makes me comfortable to 90mph. I have the "visor" for flyscreen and hesitate to mount it - this is irreversible operation and visor covers most of the flyscreen painted surface, which I happen to like. Maybe I mount it later, or not - right now I don't seem to need it.
Mounting of the rear hugger posed no challenges. Things to look for:
- 4 holes for mounting screws are protected with plastic plugs. Three in front of the wheel are easily removed by prying them off. The forth one on the side of chain guard is long and with ribs that go into the threads; pry it a little and then remove "unscrewing" from the hole.
- you need 2 torx bits for screws T27 and TR30. Don't try to use hex bits.
Hugger bolts straight on. If you keep standard exhaust cans, hugger is pretty much invisible - might be better option to use plastic one ($125) instead of carbon fiber ($225).
Replacing handlebar is a little more time consuming. It is much better done with the help of friend - you need somebody to hold the bike when you tug on breaker bar (you need one).
In order to swap the bar:
- remove all controls on the left side. Rubber grip slides of when WD40 is injected through thin plastic straw underneath the rubber (thin screwdriver to lift it)
- right side is the same, put something there to hold brake fluid container and prevent spill.
- removal of the bar ends is easy - back-off the screw and tap on the screwdriver handle - this pushes the wedge out and lets easily remove bar ends.
- after unscrewing top of handlebar risers remove bar. Torx heads of holding screws are underneath the bar - do not try to use them to loosen risers, just for holding when you use breaker bar on nuts on underside of triple tree.
- inser breaker bar with the socket from the tank side, after turning steering head slightly away. Nuts are torqued very tightly, breaker bar and friend holding the bike (and screw head above triple tree) are necessary.
- on the right side it helps to remove clamp holding wires and move wires out of the way to have more space for breaker bar.
- After successfully removing risers use special risers for fatbar (separate accessory, does not come with the bar). Elongated top is towards the tank, so the leading edge of the bar does not cover adjusters at the top of fork tubes.
- special risers do not have screw+nut arrangement - screws go from the bottom into the threaded holes in risers. Put risers on top (don't forget fat washer) and tighten lightly. Put the fatbar into risers so they align; position of the fatbar is determined with the punch mark on the inside of the gap of right riser.
- Tighten riser screws from the bottom, attach riser top parts and fix the bar in place.
- put the controls back on. Use punch marks and holes for locating pins in controls.
Finished result below. I really like it - flat black instead of shiny bar, tapered aluminum, nice Triumph logo. Position is exactly the same as original. Just add Pazzos and its perfect (included in photo).
Linear Mode
