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******n Cam Chain Broke

7K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  ahaussmann123 
#1 ·
Hi All,

Sorry to come here to pick your brains all over again, but you are just such a knowledgeable bunch, that i know i wont go far wrong.

I have searched the forum for similar posts, and gained as much knowledge as i can, but have some particular questions.

So, i was riding along last night, and a ticking sound was present for the last leg of the journey, this progressed to a fairly loud clanking sound and then towards the end of the ride there was a clang and the engine stopped, oil pressure light came on and i was rolling. I know i should have stopped sooner, but i was 5 mins from home and hoped it would last.

I gave the motor a quick spin on the started and all moved ok, but no fire, so this all leads me to believe the cam chain has gone.

I'm going to start tearing it down tomorrow when im off work, but sat in the office today i have been scoping around for options, so hoping you guys could help me.

1. if it is just the cam chain, i can replace this, what other parts should be changed whilst in there (also what parts should be checked for potential damage resulting from the chain break).

2. if the engine is toast, the first engine i have seen on ebay is a 97-00 daytona lump. As i already have the later FI system, is there anything else i would need to change for this motor to just drop in.

3. the second motor i have seen is a 2004 daytona, the seller also has most of the bike for sale, but i really need to know how much would need changing here, it seems like a big job, but the potential power gains of the gen2 motor are quite interesting.

My bike is a 99-00 Speedy, the changeover year, but has had the loom and ECU changed for the later Sagem FI due to wiring issues.

Any help i would really be grateful of, thanks in advance all.
 
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#2 ·
First things first, get the side cover off and see if the cam chain is still where it should be. Only a few minutes' work and you'll know an awful lot more straight away. Sad to say that also bears the hallmarks of a big end letting go. :frown2:
 
#4 ·
Hi All,

Thanks for the suggestion, all was not as expected, see below! - Oh and just over 30k on the clock.





Need to strip the top end off tonight and see whats happening, you can rotate the crank slowly in each direction, but it does come stuck both ways before rotating fully.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Sorry to say this, but you're fukt.

My engine did the same, tapping - rattle - clank - done.

Oil starvation could have been a cause, possible oil pump failure?


Regardless, that engine is TOAST. The general consensus is an engine swap is cheaper, quicker, and easier then an overhaul.

I just finished an engine swap on mine, 03 to 04, new engine has 10k miles old engine had 26k, I'm no mechanic by any means, I purchased a Haynes digital manual so I could see some pictures, it will take a few days and the hardest part by far is raising the new engine in place and installing those damn spacers.
 
#10 ·
You will likely have bent valves and possible piston damage - only way to know is pull the head

The 04 Daytona engine is not as simple as it may sound, although it will physically fit; you will need some different engine bolts and the shims;
it helps that you have have the MC1000 and harness at least (for the control system) but you still need to accommodate the Generator - you will need to add an R/R and custom harnesses for input and output
Other things:
You will need the throttle bodies as well as the Airbox from later series engine (airbox must be then modded to fit under gen 1 tank)
You will also need the gen 2 throttle and twin cables;
Radiator - different cooling scheme - you can make old one work with some hose rework and a filler neck; 02+ or 1050 rad is better long run
oil cooler - fittings are different on the Daytona motor (SAE, not banjo)
Daytona Header would be better match for the top end power, but yours will fit at the header end, different mount in the mid-section; if you do change headers then also need slip-on; old one will not fit on Daytona pipe; the brake rearset will also interfere with the Daytona rearset;
Instruments - should work, you will need some wiring mods and tricks to avoid MIL
Low Fuel Light - you will need a circuit mod to have the Thermistor type work and some tricks to prevent MIL
 
#11 ·
Hi All, thanks for the replies.

Did a little more work the weekend, still havent got the head off due to rusted out exhaust nuts. 3 down, 3 to go.

Here are some pics so far





From what i can see, cylinder 3 exhaust ports are proud of the others, even without the cam in place so suggest these may have taken a beating. Will get the head off ASAP to confirm.

Out of interest, when the engine has had contact internally, is it just a write-off, or is it a case of it needs a lot of work to return to function. Only ask as if replacing an engine, would it be better to put the money into replacing any damaged parts on this one first?. If so, where to start.

thanks all.
 
#12 ·
Aha, have negotiated a deal on eBay for a sub 30k speed triple motor from a 1999 bike. £310 delivered. Has been heard running and is not from an accident damaged bike (Stolen recovered only). think this will be the best and easiest way forward for me :)
 
#17 ·
..New engine definitely :)
Not necessarily - nothing too horrible there - either repair or replace the head, new cam chain & drive gear;
but of course you might be as cost-effective at that point replacing the motor (especially one of 99 vintage)


Crogers said:
I guess thats why I am having a problem selling my 2011 speed, with close to 25k on it.
Oh c'mon - this incident - or any major engine failure is far from common on a Triumph engine with that kind of mileage.
And regardless your engine is three generations removed from this one!
 
#20 ·
I agree Crogers I don't understand how Kelly/NADA can omit something as important as mileage on a performance bike when determining value. I get that a goldwing will run forever but when I look at used bikes and they're all the same price with some having 25-30,000 miles that the others I scratch my head. The other thing is naked bikes are a really small market not just the S3 but a BMW dealer near me says they move 1-2 s1kr's a year and when I bought my SDR in march 2016 there were new 2014's still on craiglist at fire sale prices. I paid $13,250 for my 2013 SE and traded it and 9k for my SDr 18 mos later with 6600 miles(both were new leftovers)after the dealer initially wanted $12,500 plus my S3 for the SDr! same dealer both bikes. Think about it, you saved some coin buying your new naked so use the money you saved to reduce the price on the S3 and it'll move.
 
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