Bars and Risers Info

[dblhelx]

Ok, have the Rizoma stuff coming.

As with the post I have going with the Rizoma billet grips, this one is for the fatbars and new risers.

prior to starting, feedback, tips, precautions are always welcomed to help me make mistakes. All my bikes, never had to replace bars.

1) Is there a way to make sure the bars are centered?
2) Torque numbers to secure the risers onto the triple clamp?
3) Torque numbers to tighten the bars into the risers?

Thanks, as usual! have a good one folks.

[w00ht]

When breaking your stock risers loose from the triple get a 1/2" breaker bar with a 8mm hex bit. I couldn't get mine off with my regular hex keys, Those take a lot more effort than anticipated.

I don't know about the risers since I used a different setup than you are using.

As far as the bar's, I would read the instructions for that. Different alloys require different amounts of clamping force (IE stock chromed steel vs. Easton Aluminum).

Pay attention to your cable routing when you take it all apart, it will help when you got to put it all back together. When you get your controls where you want them, move the bars lock to lock a few times and look for binding clutch or throttle cables.

[DEcosse]

Originally Posted by dblhelx

... Is there a way to make sure the bars are centered?...

The Rizoma bars have have ident marks in the center section so it is easy to to see if you have them centered. I personally don't worry too much about a specific torque setting for something like this, just a pretty good 'squeeze' should be OK. Some anti-seize is a good precaution.
The M10 bolts come with Ny-lock locking style nuts, so you don't have to worry about them coming loose, just make sure they're good & snug.

Note that you can't just tighten down the risers first, as they can end up off-line, so you kinda need the bar in place to make sure it is all perpendicular. The two sets of bolts that come with the risers are no good - way too long and the M12's (which thread into riser from the bottom side) are too big in the diameter to fit through the top yoke (please don't drill out your top yoke!!!!). So you want to use an M10 socket cap bolt, going down from the top-side with the nuts fastened below the botom side of the yoke, but something shorter than the ones that come as the M10 alternatives in the kit. You can't even cut those down as the shoulder is already below the depth you need. So a trip to the hardware store in order most likely.