I borrowed this from Devious' post on another site :wink: and added a few things.
The factory service manual is available online from several sources. Your bike SHOULD have come with an owner’s manual. Both are great sources of information – read them (RTFM).
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Fuel – The stock bike runs fine on 89 octane (R+M/2), 94-95 RON.
Fuel tank - If your fuel tank sucks air when you open it, the air and fuel drain lines have been put on incorrectly. This can cause starting problems and can damage the tank and fuel pump. Remove the tank and make sure the line with the disc valve is on the outside (left side). And make sure the lines are not kinked.
When you put the tank back on, move it as far forward as possible, and make sure the seat has the little pads on it to prevent scratching the tank.
Suspension/Ride - If the suspension is too hard or soft, the dealer likely didn't set the bike up correctly. Take it back to them and tell them to do it right - especially if you paid a set up fee.
Throttle slack - If the throttle moves a good bit before the throttle begins to open, take the bike to your dealer, and tell them to adjust it properly - especially if you paid a set up fee.
Headlights - If you cannot see well at night, you headlights are likely not adjusted correctly for best coverage. This only requires loosening the mounts and re-aiming them for better coverage.
Shift lights - The gear change lights can be set to flash at different RPMs - RTFM.
MPG display - Not all S3s have the miles per gallon readout set to US gallons and miles. Some came here (to the U.S) set for kilometers and imperial gallons. To check/change it , do this:hold down all three buttons with the ignition on, but engine not running. Then you can select km, miles & UK gallons or miles & US gallons. In the US the setting you want is #3, miles per hour and US gallons.
Tach - The tach reads low at high rpm. The stock rev limit is 9450 rpm, but this will be indicated by nearly 10,500 rpm.
Speedometer - The stock 1050 Speedometer is off by 6.5% to 7%, but can be corrected with TuneEdit.
Mirrors – Many find that the CRG Hindsite or LaneSplitter units work well. When removing the stock mirrors, the bolt holes are 10mm x 1.25 pitch. The bolts from
www.diskbrakeadapters.com work well – specify black when ordering.
Oil – The manufacturer's recommended oil is synthetic
Mobile One 4T – 15w-50. But also accepted is any synthetic oil in that weight with a motorcycle rating. Friction modifiers are NOT recommended per Triumph.
Changing your oil requires 3.2 liters including the filter, or 3.0L if you fill the filter first. The sump crush gasket is 14mm and can be bought at any autoparts store for around 50 cents or less.
Use whatever oil you want – a very subjective and touchy subject.
Oil filters – Some are better than others. There are already several really good threads on the subject – including after-market alternatives and part numbers. The new filter goes on hand tight (10Nm), and the sump plug should be torque to 25 NM - the manual is wrong.
Spark plugs – The stock plug is NGK CR9EK. There are other options mentioned in other threads. The plug wells tend to hold water, resulting in corroded plugs that do not fire well. A little anti-corosion spray goes a long way. If you bike suddenly starts running rough, check the plugs.
Exhaust – TORS = Triumph Off Road Silencers and tune. they look like stock silencers, but make around 5 hp more. There are MANY exhaust companies offering everything from slip-on replacement silencers, half systems with larger mid-pipes, or full systems with a new header.
SAI – Secondary Air Injection. A system that pulls air from the airbox into the exhaust in order to dilute and help burn the unburned gases. It is also the source for the exhaust popping when decelerating. Removing it, does not make more power, it just stops the noise, and makes tuning a bit easier.
Wheel bolts - The rear wheel bolt is 46mm. The front is 22mm. There are MANY sources for the required tools.
Air filters – The stock filter filters best. Aftermarket parts are available from BMC, K&N, and DNA.
Chain lube – There are MANY different lubes, use what you feel best about. If you bike suddenly starts making strange noises, try lubricating the chain.
Tuning – It takes fuel AND air to make power. The stock mapping leaves a lot to be desired. Power Commander and TuneBoy offer the ability to tune your bike.
Mileage – Most members report, at cruise, close to 40 mpg US; 48 mpg Imperial; 17 km/l; 5.88 L/100km.
Bike Weight - Wet weight is 460-470 pounds (210-214 kg) - dependng on the amount of fuel in the bike.
Chain Tension - Another place to check if you find your bike making funny noises, adjust as per the manual shooting for more slack than less.
Tires (tyres) - The stock size is 120/70R-17 front and 180/55R-17 rear. Tire preference is as subjective and controversial as oil preference. Acceptable options per manual are Pilot Powers, Bridgstone BT014, or Pirelli Diablos.
Tire Pressure - Manual recommends 34psi front, 42psi rear. If adjustment is needed, start at the recommended pressure and adjust in increments.
Paint Codes - Look
here.
Linear Mode
