How many here have adjusted their own valves?

[Triple_Rider]

Seeing that I've got another month and a half or so of unfriendly weather, I might undertake this. Found some info on it at Webbikeworld This is on a T-bird sport, but I believe it's the same. Also a little info Here.
I figure i'll need to buy a few tools, i'd rather do that that fork the money over to the dealer anyway. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and should be able to figure it out with a manual and some help from you guys of course... Am I biting off more tha tI can chew? Anyone tried this?

[Drunktank]

since you have the time.... do it yourself! get a heater in your garage and take your time Youll be happy you did it yourself for sure......

as for adjusting the valves.... well..... never done it on an S3.... but it cant be THAT much more difficult that any other bike. You're gonna need a torque wrench and a good set of gauges though.

And ya.... DONT drop any shims in the engine!!!! I always shove lots of those blue shop paper towels in any spaces leading to the depths of the engine to catch anything (just in case)

[birdman]

guy at the dealership said that it is too easy to blow that job (pun intended) if you try to do it yourself. not worth it if you ask me.

[crashmasterd]

On 2007-01-21 01:22, birdman wrote:
guy at the dealership said that it is too easy to blow that job (pun intended) if you try to do it yourself. not worth it if you ask me.

The guy at the dealership said that? Reallllllly. Hmmm. I suppose you better not be changing your oil either. And headlight bulbs. You might blow that too. You know, checking your tire pressure can be troublesome. Better let the dealer do that as well.

My thought is this: If you are comfortable removing and replacing the cams then go for it. It isn't really that difficult. I've done the older ones where you can use the little tool to change them without removing the cams, but after 2004 then went to shim under bucket and it requires removing the cams.

In all honesty, the worst part of the process on the Trident was making sure the valve cover sealed properly. I don't know if this will be an issue with the newer engines.

Tools you will need other than sockets, hex keys, and screwdrivers and stuff:
1) Torque Wrench
2) Dial Caliper (for measuring iffy shims)
3) Triumph Repair Manual, or equivalent.

Don't buy shims until you know exactly which shims you will need. In my case we only bought 3 shims (of 12) because we made everything work by swapping shims between valves. The shims were only about $4.00 each, as I recall.

[batistuta]

I m glad you posted that question. In another 4000kms I going to have a go at it as well since I finally got a garage (no excuses now).

just wondering how long did it take you guys to do it the first time and did you stuff up anywhere?

[Limey]

I'm gonna be doing this myself in the next couple of weeks, I read the manual and it looks straight forward enough. I'm hoping they are within spec tho. :-D

[HarriS]

Those who have adjusted/had them adjusted on a 1050, were they within spec?

[dr_gallup]

Even if you don't want to remove the cams and change the shims yourself, you can easily check the clearances. If the clearances are good you just saved yourself a boatload of money you can spend on mods! :-D

[Avi8or]

On 2007-01-21 05:48, HarriS wrote:
Those who have adjusted/had them adjusted on a 1050, were they within spec?

Checked mine at about 3000kms. All within spec.

[kuhlka]

Um, I'd hope your valves would be in spec at 3,000kms. You're not supposed to need a checkup until 20,000, lol.