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TTS Supercharger Install

142K views 383 replies 51 participants last post by  DieselGeek 
#1 · (Edited)
AKA ... Project Horsepressure

I am really not great at taking pictures and working at the same time , but I think I cover the bases pretty well .
First , You have to double up the head gaskets . See HERE
After replacing the head gaskets , don't put the starter cover on , you will be adding stiffer springs to the clutch , and new clutch plates for good measure while you are in there . The TTS kit comes with +15% clutch springs . ( edit 02-25-2018 Clutch was not holding near hard enough and Custom Barnett plates and 90# springs were installed . Thread on this forum )

For starters there are some parts to assemble
There is the shaft that transfers power from the crank to the lower pulley. You have to remove the inspection cover and screw the housing and support bearing .

Then insert the extension shaft

When I went to install the cover , the cover would not seat and I thought the shaft was keeping the cover from fitting correctly . I removed the cover and ground off the interfering part , The timing nub as it turns out.

I now realize that I may not have had the extension shaft seated in the sprag correctly.( I totally didn't ) LFH this can be easily checked by test fitting the cover with out the support bearing in place . :eek:

After that you can install the upper engine mount bracket . The supplied bolt is too long and needs to be shortened to a usable length.

After that its time to put the SC oil cooler on the main plate and the supercharger. This leads to the second bolt that needs to be shortened. One of the holes in oil cooler is blind . The supplied bolts are the same length , but only one passes through the mounting hole and bolts up tight . You have to trim the bolt so that it will seat properly


Continued ....
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Some of my pics are from a test install, the rad was still in place . Everything was MUCH easier with the rad out .

This pipe is the first to go in and the Absolute Last to be tightened down.


I mounted the oil reservoir next . I put the oil fittings on the tank finger tight for later positioning. There was no provision for the forward mounting location of the tank. I made a simple bracket from a coat hanger . It simply bolted down under two forward bolts of the front sprocket cover and up to the tanks tab. The short span was quite rigid .

These are the two tubes that make up the intake . You will note that they both have provisions for connecting the CCV line . You can pick one or both according to TTS , but the one on the longer tube is nearly impossible to fix a hose to later on. I chose to use the one on the shorter tube and plugged the other one.


The slotted end of the shorter tube presses over the intake of the supercharger . I fited it to the charger on the bench without the clamp and then offered up the whole assembly to the mounting location to "clock" the tube.You want the tube as low as possible in the cavity while still being able to fit the silicon tube and gear strap over it . You also want enough room on the CCV outlet to fit the hose on there as well , it is best to fit the hose on the CCV first.
Once I was satisfied with the position I removed it from the bike and pressed the tube firmly onto the charger and clamped it . This took a long time to get just right . Once it was I used a rubber mallet to seat the backing plate on to the crank extension.

You must get it all the way on, all the way around . You can use the upper mounting bolt to line up the upper mount . Also use a straight edge to confirm the bcking plate is not bent or distorted when in position


Fit the silicone boot to the main intake tube and slide it in from the left with the clamps . The tube mounts to the upper thermostat housing bolt .

Here is my final CCV line location and routing


Continued ....
 

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#3 · (Edited)
Oil line routing

Now put the outlet oil line to the cooler

The out from the base of the cooler and across to the top of the oil reservoir

From the bottom of the reservoir to the filter tucked under the RR

out of the filter to the inlet of the supercharger

I dont know what happend to these pics . They gone .
 
#4 · (Edited)
Next , lining up the charged air cooler .

Test fit the cooler and note that the holes don't all line up :(
]
Slit the hole at the bottom of the CAC and set the nut/bolt/washer in place to hold its position.
You will see that there is still a gap at the top mounting point . With the backing plate squared up and the CAC in place choose from the washers and shim the upper mount so that none of the parts have to bend when torqued down.
Once you are happy with that remove the cooler and fit the lower pulley with the long bolt to the crank . When tightened down make sure it has clearance to the back plate , you don't want them touching when it is running:D

The belt and tensioner can be next . Belt first then eccentric tensioner . I used 2 allen wrenches to set the tension so that only a 45degree twist could be put on the belt .


Fit both the straight silicone hose on the forward line of the CAC and the 90 degree tube on the rear . You will need to trim the 90 on both ends a little . It is a real bugger to get on the charger due to the angles you have to work with . It is easiest if you get the forward tube on as far onto the CAC as possible to keep it from interfering with the fit of the rear tube. We will get to that forward tube later .
Once you get the 90 on the charger and get the charger mounting points lined up mount the charger and cover
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Fitting the intake plenum is another time consuming job .
Put the 45 degree silcone hose over the first tube that I mentioned.
This one


The 3 silicone intake tubes need to be trimmed to length . Fit the plenum and then the tank , if it does not fit , remove the plenum and trim the tubes .
I screwed the clamp to the hose then used a caliper to make sure the clamp is on square all the way around. I then used a razorblade and followed the clamp around the hose to make a straight cut .
Once the plenum sits low enough to get the tank on remove the plenum and put the clamps on the hoses at the throttle body .
Now push the plenum nose into the silicone hose that is attached to the tube that leads out the frame to the CAC. Twist it around and push it on to the throttle body DO NOT clamp the nose to the other tube yet , just make sure the hose clamps are on there ready to go on. Clamp the plenum to the TB and bolt down the forward and rear plenum hold down brackets .
These pics are also missing . you can picture what it looks like right ?
 
#6 ·
Almost done .

The last series of hoses and tubes need to be wrestled into place .
The first tube in place can now be dealt with .
Pull the straight silicone hose up off the now mounted CAC and get it started on the tube above it .
This tubes position will really interfere with the radiator you have to get it up and in as far as you can. Having the rad handy to check fitment will be an asset .
Once you are satisfied with the placement lock it down. Keep the hose clamps turned away from anything they can poke or rub on .

I installed the voltage monitor, and wiring for the powered tank bag too .
All the intake plumbing has occupied the room that my Stebel air horn compressor was in , so I relocated the compressor to my flyscreen and my HID ballasts and whtnot to where the air box used to be .

Still to do ..
Fill with coolant .
Fill and bleed charger oil system
Install tune .
Push the starter button.
 
#9 ·
Looking good, Norm! I unpacked the box today, everything is present and correct. The EBC clutch plates and uprated springs came last week (I'd bought some simply because I figured I'd be needing them - there certainly weren't any in my TTS kit). One of my head gaskets is here, I'm still waiting on the other one. I've got exhaust gaskets, engine oil & filter, and a gallon of coolant standing by. I'm almost ready to get started.
 
#12 ·
It is strange that your kit did not have springs . I had purchased +10% springs , they sent +15% and they were listed on the packing list .

A list from memory of needed / recommended parts and gaskets . I will edit as I see that I forgot something .

cam chain tensioner gasket
clutch cover gasket
starter cover gaskets
2x head gaskets
8x head bolts
cam cover gasket
cam ladder gasket
EBC HD clutch
3x exhaust gaskets
6x exhasut nuts
213,142 nylon zip ties ( so far ) cleaning up and organising the rats nest of wires you see in some pics .

I see that I forgot to cover the Blow off valve install , set up is done after its running .
 
#19 ·
Plans? What plans? you don't have no stinkin plans!.... We r all sitting here waiting for the finished product:) You have way more patience and discipline than I do, I would have locked myself in the garage, skipped sleep, work, and eating til I got that bad boy installed and running. As always, fantastic write up!


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 
#20 ·
DG, you take "What did you do to your Speed Triple Today" to an entirely different level!! There is a lot of respect and admiration for you coming from myself and others. Keep it up and I already know just how cruel you will be those poor rear tires--they don't stand a chance!

You have a go for Throttle Up!

-mjf over and out.......
 
#25 ·
But First more install details .
Easy things first.
I flashed the ECU first thing , then filled and vacuum bled the coolant system .

Filling and bleeding the Supercharger oil system.

The instructions state to leave the oil inlet banjo bolt loose on the charger , then add oil to the reservoir and use regulated 15psi air pressure to force the oil to the loose inlet banjo. Once oil appears at the banjo tighten it and you are safe to start .Start the engine and watch for the oil returning to the reservoir .
When I did this the air pressure was of course going out the return hose and the feed hose it was fighting the oil filling the system . I clamped the hose at the return side and it bled much faster / easier .
I did as instructed . After 10 seconds of no oil returning to the reservoir I grew nervous and shut it down . I cracked the banjo fitting on the return side of the charger and clamped the hose . I applied pressure until bubble free oil came out of the return banjo I torqued it down .
Fired it up again and watched and waited the oil level sunk and about 20 seconds later ( seemed like 30 mins and was probably 5 seconds ) the oil started to flow down the return side of the tank .
I let it idle for 5 mins , checking for leaks , NONE !
Before I set the final oil level , I set up the BOV.
The valve was not bypassing at idle out of the box. I removed it and operated it with my thumb to make sure it was not stuck .
The BOV has 2 nuts on it the acorn nut needs to be removed . It will expose the stem with a slot in the end for a driver. Loose the other nut and back the stem out a couple turns . Return the BOV to the plenum and start the bike again. It is now bypassing and hissing away at idle. Still running I screwed the stem back in until the small dips in the idle allowed the valve to close . I adjusted it so that the valve would not close under any idle condition yet snap closed on the slightest application of throttle . Once happy I jammed the first nut down and then the jam nut . The jam nut did not reach the other nut . I am going to have to modify the top nut to work properly .

Setting the final oil level.

The oil level is supposed to be checked with the threads of the cap fully engaged . PITA.
So I engaged the treads and marked the dip stick, wiped it off and then just dipped it square to the threads and marked the difference . Much easier :)
Once the BOV was sorted I could rev to 3000 and hold it to get the charger oil level right . A partner helps here to . Slowly increase revs while replenishing the oil level in the reservoir . once at 3K rpm adjust the oil level to max .
 
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