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Old 09-21-2006   #31 (permalink)
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On 2006-09-21 00:14, skeepee wrote:
Heated grips are nice, but I think heated gloves (like Gerbings) work better and are more easily moved between bikes - all you need is a 12v socket. Plus they can tie in to a heated vest or jacket, which makes a BIG difference.
Problem is, heated gloves are huge and cumbersome, plus you're plugged into the bike and have to remember that before getting off. I've tried riding with larger winter gloves before and it felt like I was using salad tongs for hands, no control at all.

Besides the time to install them, heated grip kits are cheap. The one I bought with a few extras (waterproof switch, bar insulator, shipping) came out to $40 and some change.
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Old 09-21-2006   #32 (permalink)
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On 2006-09-14 13:36, Dobieman wrote:
OK I know I live in the tropics but why on earth buy a naked bike and then add on stuff to deal with the cold :???:

BTW Corbin has a heated seat option for you ladies with a cold...... :razz:
Why buy a bike made for corners if you live where there are none?

I ride year round and in the summer we hit the 90's regularly and even a couple 100 degree days, but in the fall/winter it hovers between 40 and 50 degrees. Warm enough to ride, but the hands do get cold. Warm hands means happy rider! :-D
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Old 09-27-2006   #33 (permalink)
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On 2006-09-16 23:58, Sparti wrote:

Give me a few days and i will get some pic's for you and a more detailed installation process.

Stay tuned :-D
Sparti, it's getting cold in the mornings around here. I, for one, am looking forward to your writeup. :wink:
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Old 09-27-2006   #34 (permalink)
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I got my Dualstars wired up and installed Monday. The whole job took a couple of hours. I tapped into the power and ground wires from the running lights in the headlights, used some nice mesh wire cover to hide the wires and I installed the switch in the plastic surround over my gauge cluster (I have the mini fairing). On the left side I used the bar wrap/insulator they sell on their website. It is a heat shrink type thing. The only thing I notice is the left grip now is larger than the right with the heat wrap and heated grip element underneath it. I was thinking a throttle side grip may now fit the left side and be the same thickness as the throttle side. I do have pretty large hands, so this was actually an added benefit to me, but some may not like the larger feeling of the grip.

They do work very well. I was worried about blowing the circuit and was going to wire in a relay and go to the battery, but the directions say you don't need to and it doesn't seem to cause a problem with the people that have installed them. They get very warm, as most say, on the hi setting and low seems about perfect.
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Old 09-27-2006   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-09-27 14:09, Curmudgeon wrote:
Quote:
On 2006-09-16 23:58, Sparti wrote:

Give me a few days and i will get some pic's for you and a more detailed installation process.

Stay tuned :-D
Sparti, it's getting cold in the mornings around here. I, for one, am looking forward to your writeup. :wink:
Sorry Guy's I'm not intentionally being slow in responding - Let me explain.

I originally took some pics but i can not find them so i need to take some more. The problem is I'm having some major construction work done at my place (3 room extension) and so speedy has been put into self storage which makes it not as accessible. to make it even more less accessible speedy has been with a service centre this week for its 10k service. I'm picking her up tomorrow so I will post all (new) pic's and comments then.

Sorry for the delay






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Old 09-30-2006   #36 (permalink)
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Better late than never.


OK here are the steps to installing the heat pad grips.

1. Take off the two rubber grips. First take off the bar ends. If you have never done this before you need to unscrew the Allen headed bolt and then tap the head of the bolt to free the expanding clamp on the inside of the bar. Then proceed to take off the grips. I did this by sliding a thin long screwdriver under the rubber grip and then spraying a small amount of WD40 in a few places. It just slides off. You will need to give the grip a good clean before putting it back on. This only works on the left side. The right side I just peeled the grip back.

2. Because the left side heat pad sits on the metal bar it has a tendency to lose a lot of the heat in to the bar compared with the heat pad on the right side, which is placed on the plastic throttle tube. To stop this heat loss on the left I first slipped over the metal bar end a rubber heat shrink tube.



Once in place I heated up the tube and shrunk it to the bar. I only did one, I would recommend putting another heat shrink tube over the top of the first one (better insulation).

3. Peel the backing off the heat pad (self sticking pads) and place them over the rubber tubing. On the right side just place the pads directly on to the plastic throttle tube.

4. Once I had the pads on the left side I unscrewed and opened the plastic casing that has all the controls for the lights etc. I did this so that I could feed the two wires from the pads through to the other side. This is a much tidier way than having the wires going around the outside. IMage

5. For the right hand side I just used cable ties and followed the throttle cables.

6. Do not put the grips back on until everything has been tested and works.

7. You have 2 wires on each pad. One of the wires from each pad is earthed and the other goes to the toggle switch. (See diagram). I joined up the respective wires from each pad to each other so I ended up with one wire going to the switch and the other to earth. Before you join any of these wires up first put a heat shrink tube on so that you can protect the join. It looks neater as well.

8. For the earth wire I tapped in to one of the earth wires from the park lights on one side and for the power wire I tapped in to the power wire from the other park light.

9. To feed the wires in to the back of the light casing I made a small incision in the plastic wire covers that go around all the wires from the back of the lights. I then fed the wire through until I had enough to work with inside the light casing to attach to the respective points.

10. Once all that was done I mounted the toggle switch on the plastic backing above my binnacle - I have a fly screen. If you don’t have a fly screen then a bracket will have to be mounted somewhere.

11. Once all that is done - test it. It should only work if you have your key in the on position or in the park light position. Of course the toggle switch also needs to be in either low or high position.

12. If all works well then its time to put the grips back on. The right side is simple just put it on over the pad. Mine went on very easy. On the left side I used a small amount of contact adhesive on the inside of the rubber grip. It worked as a lubricant to slide the grip on and once set held it in place.


That’s it. I can thoroughly recommend doing it. It cost me 50 odd dollars and takes a couple of hours - bingo – HOT HANDS.















[ This message was edited by: Sparti on 2006-09-30 03:16 ]
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Old 10-02-2006   #37 (permalink)
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Thanks for taking the time to write that up, Sparti! Your tips will be very helpful when I install them.

I have two ideas and would be interested in your (and others') reactions. Both would make for a cleaner installation.

First, I'm thinking of running the slack in the throttle-side wire inside the metal housing for the throttle cable pulley. I opened the housing up yesterday and it looks like there's lots of clearance. I'd then run the wire out of the housing parallel to the throttle cables. Anyone see any problems with that?

Second---and I posted this elsewhere---is to use the (overseas markets) headlight switch to control the heated grips. I'd install it in the existing slot in the switch housing. I don't now understand the wiring of either the headlight switch or the heated grips enough to know how it would work. Would it be a simple on/off switch, or could I use the park position to control the low circuit of the grips and the headlight position to control the high circuit?

Thanks for any thoughts, gents!
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Old 10-04-2006   #38 (permalink)
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On 2006-10-02 09:38, Curmudgeon wrote:
Thanks for taking the time to write that up, Sparti! Your tips will be very helpful when I install them.

I have two ideas and would be interested in your (and others') reactions. Both would make for a cleaner installation.

First, I'm thinking of running the slack in the throttle-side wire inside the metal housing for the throttle cable pulley. I opened the housing up yesterday and it looks like there's lots of clearance. I'd then run the wire out of the housing parallel to the throttle cables. Anyone see any problems with that?

Second---and I posted this elsewhere---is to use the (overseas markets) headlight switch to control the heated grips. I'd install it in the existing slot in the switch housing. I don't now understand the wiring of either the headlight switch or the heated grips enough to know how it would work. Would it be a simple on/off switch, or could I use the park position to control the low circuit of the grips and the headlight position to control the high circuit?

Thanks for any thoughts, gents!
Curmudgeon, i don't see a problem with the first process as long as the new wires don't restrict the throttle cable or even cause it to stick while open. The other thing is - you will need to have enough slack in the wires for the heat pad as you have to allow for the throttle grip twisting.

Your second option won't work as you need a 3 position switch Hi - Off - Low. If you can get a 3 pos switch that will fit then i can not see a problem.
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Old 10-05-2006   #39 (permalink)
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On 2006-10-04 21:18, Sparti wrote:

Your second option won't work as you need a 3 position switch Hi - Off - Low. If you can get a 3 pos switch that will fit then i can not see a problem.
Hmmm . . . are you sure about this? As I now understand the wiring of the Dual Star kit, there are two independent circuits on each heat pad: one low wattage and one high wattage. Regarding the Triumph headlight switch, I figured (1) in the park position, it closes the circuit to one lead and (2) in the on position, it closes the circuit to the other lead. As long as the on position doesn't close the circuit to both leads---it would seem the Triumph switch would work.

Do you know Triumph switch doesn't work that way? Unfortunately, I can't get one to check, without buying one from overseas, so I'd like to confirm before buying.
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Old 10-05-2006   #40 (permalink)
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By the way, I understand that the park lights remain on when the headlight switch is in the on position. I figure it's more likely that is accomplished downstream of the switch, rather than within the switch.
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