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Old 06-17-2006   #11 (permalink)
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My '01 came with 18/43 stock gearing. I replaced them with 18/45 which was the popular choice over at T595. I then bought a 19 T for the front, where it is now. If I want more pop, I can slap the 18 back on there.
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Old 06-17-2006   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-06-15 14:14, Desmo wrote:

...should I stick with steel?
The only advantage to an aluminum sprocket is a few grams of weight loss. The disadvantage of an aluminum sprocket is that you will be replacing sprockets about three times as often. The cost/benefit ratio just doesn't make sense. You're better off skipping that cheeseburger before your big races.

The factory rear sprocket and most replacements are stainless so they shouldn't rust. Also, a properly lubed chain shouldn't rust. A rusty chain is a sure sign of neglect.
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Old 06-17-2006   #13 (permalink)
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Crash, I believe that to be incorrect. A hard Anodized Aluminum sprocket will last almost as long as a steel one if properly maintained. I have a 45 T AFAM that has been on for almost 10,000 miles, and shows no wear.
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Old 06-17-2006   #14 (permalink)
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A small front sprocket also accelerates and decelerates the chain more, usually not a factor until 17T or less.(The racing motorcycle- a technical guide for constructors- John Bradley)

"In reality, the torque is transmitted via a radius which is constantly changing and this causes the chain's linear speed to fluctuate." John Bradley
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Old 06-17-2006   #15 (permalink)
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On 2006-06-17 11:16, Speed3 wrote:
Crash, I believe that to be incorrect. A hard Anodized Aluminum sprocket will last almost as long as a steel one if properly maintained. I have a 45 T AFAM that has been on for almost 10,000 miles, and shows no wear.
When you reach 50,000 miles come see me.

Hard anodizing is a surface process that in essence changes the chemical makeup of the aluminum a few microns deep- basically crystalizing the surface with aluminum oxide which is corrosion and abrasion resistant (Grinding disks are made of aluminum oxide for this reason). Colors can be added by introducing a dye during the process that gets trapped in the crystalline structure.

This is great for pretty sprockets that don't corrode, but it doesn't address the fundamental weakness of aluminum: i.e. it's both softer and more brittle than steel or stainless and breaks down under repeated use. Micro-fractures occur from repeated loading and unloading (fatigue) that eventually weaken the sprocket teeth. While you won't see surface erosion with anodizing, you still get fracturing and cracking- often hidden by the anodizing.

This is why when you bend your foot-peg in a crash and try to straighten it, it just breaks. Your sprocket may look pristine, but there is damage that will eventually show up, perhaps catastrophically.

Note that the above is also true of steel and stainless steel, but they are far more resistant to such deterioration, and they are more likely to show early signs of this before a catastrophic failure.

This being known, I just don't think that it's worth it to use aluminum sprockets for non-race purposes. That's an opinion of course.
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Old 06-18-2006   #16 (permalink)
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I would have gladly used steel sprockets, but the only 45 tooth one I could find was an AFAM. I'll replace it as needed.
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Old 06-18-2006   #17 (permalink)
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On 2006-06-18 06:44, Speed3 wrote:
I would have gladly used steel sprockets, but the only 45 tooth one I could find was an AFAM. I'll replace it as needed.
Same here. I would prefer steel too, but nobody seems to make a 44 rear, let alone a 44 rear with the nice decorative hole pattern of the Renthal I have on now.

I think crashmasterd might be a bit too cautious though, as there are many different aluminium alloys available - not all of them are of the supersoft pure stuff. Tools are made of alu-alloy, aeroplanes are made of alu-alloy, the S3 engine is made of alu-alloy, the S3 frame is made of alu-alloy etc.etc.

So if one was to play things safe all the above things and a zillion more, should be replaced with steel items.

[ This message was edited by: Martin_R on 2006-06-18 07:06 ]
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Old 06-18-2006   #18 (permalink)
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Another thing. I wouldn't trust Any chain/sprocket combo for 50,000 miles. I tend to replace things way before their service life is up, for peace of mind.
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Old 06-18-2006   #19 (permalink)
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both have great points how ever i had a alloy rear sprocket and its life span was extreamly little. how ever it was a race sprocket but the life was incredibly small so i will only get steel sprockets from now on. and isnt there a coupany called sidewinder or some thing that has bigger rear sprockets made out of titanium and steel mixed for lighter and stronger sprockets. i looked in magazines but couldnt find the add for them. any way thats my 3 cents
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Old 06-18-2006   #20 (permalink)
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Also i was told by numerous people when i was researching sprockets that adding 3 in back is the same as dropping one in front
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