Triumphrat

Big_Guns · 06-05-2006

I went a little further than you when I removed all the SAI hoses and solenoid valve a few months ago. I made my own block-off plates out of a heavy sheet metal which enabled me to remove the reed valve assembly as well. I later decided the sheet metal wasn't the right material (not sturdy enough) and reinstalled the reed valves (so I would have use of the rubber gaskets) and the 3 stock plastic pieces. I used 3/8" vacuum caps to cap these off. Looks like 3 mini penises but still better than the cluster of hoses :-D . I also used a larger cap out of a multisize pack (7/8" ?) to plug the opening in the air box. I'll probably leave it this way until a pro makes some black anodized block-off plates like are common on the Japanese sport bikes, or I find a material that would be more suitable. I'd be interested to know if there are stock Triumph parts, New
Zealand or otherwise, available. My dealer knew of no such thing. One of the benefits besides those mentioned, is it gave me a place to relocate the horn. I thought it looked awful hanging off the left side of the oil cooler. I used the bolt/location where the solenoid valve mounts to the airbox, fashioned a shorter mounting bracket for the horn (to allow clearance between it and the 1st and 2nd "penis", shortened and reran the wire. The horn is as loud as in the stock position but hidden. I also removed the rubber flap mounted between the steering stem and the radiator and the 2 plastic pieces that cover the frame opinings on either side behind the steering stem. I rerouted all the wiring that those plastic pieces hide giving a much cleaner look around the frame/motor and allowing more air to the airbox snorkels (which might give a slight performance boost with an aftermarket exhaust and map). I also removed the side stand safety switch and wiring. I'm also going to install a K&N filter for the crankcase breathe in place of the hose running to the airbox. I think Triumph, with a little thought, could have run the hoses/wiring a little neater/cleaner. I understand it's better on the 1050 than on the previous Triples but still a lot of room for improvement. I didn't bother trying to fool the ECU and have noticed no adverse effects. The "check engine light" is on but the bike runs as well or better than it did before. When being very critical, I notice a slight surging between 3800 and 4300 RPM which might be where the SAI valve was open. This surging may have been present before removal but I didn't notice it. Not really a problem as I don't cruise at that RPM and the bike accelerates strongly right through that range. I'm guessing an aftermarket exhaust with a proper map would eliminate the surging anyway.

kuhlka · 06-05-2006

Ah, see I want to keep the check engine light from even coming on. That way if something REALLY important happens, I'll still have that light flicking on to warn me.

Sounds like a good install though.

Mad · 06-05-2006

I tried this same thing last summer. It triggered the light even with the resistor. I could live with the light but it also put the electronic fuel injection into limp mode. Also, it did NOT get rid of the decel pops and bangs. The TOR map DID get rid of the pops and bangs.
Mad`

Martin_R · 06-05-2006

Quote:

On 2006-06-05 11:36, Mad wrote:
It triggered the light even with the resistor.

What size resistor did you use? Was the bike at any point switched on with no resistor and with no solenoid on the wires?

Big_Guns · 06-05-2006

Mad-
That's interesting that you had those problems. I'm definitely not in the "limp" mode and removing the SAI totally eliminated the popping on decel. Not to question your mechanical abilities, but could you have left some other sensor disconnected or not had an air tight seal? Maybe I'm just lucky, but same (year) bike, same (OEM) map with different results?

TripleTrouble · 06-06-2006

Rode into work this morning, no popping and no engine light, didn't even catch on fire or anything! so far so good.

Martin_R · 06-06-2006

Quote:

On 2006-06-06 05:57, TripleTrouble wrote:
Rode into work this morning, no popping and no engine light, didn't even catch on fire or anything! so far so good.

That's good news. I think I will also store the solenoid & associated ***** in the garage. What sort of resistor did you use? I am no electrician so I have no idea what sort of current goes to the solenoid, so does a regular resistor rated for max 1W do the job without frying or would one of the wirewound aluminium heatsink equipped resistors be in order?

Also did you hook the resistor up at the ECU connector or at the solenoid end of the wire? I guess it is best to leave the solenoid wiring on for possible future MOT needs.

I suspect Mad used the wrong size resistor or switched on the bike before putting the resistor on. And this pissed the ECU off as Mad is the only one I have heard that has had negative effects from this. After putting the resistor on the engine light should have cleared after three heat cycles.

Now if someone would make a professional version of the block off plates ala Graves Motosport, I would be very interested on purchasing a set.

HiVel · 06-06-2006

My '06 is a California CAN version also and I will be very interested in the mods described in this thread. Please some help here. I want to remove the can and associated crapola and it seems I am part way there. Finish it up Exactly what to do and we will do it!!

Mad · 06-06-2006

I don't remember what size of resistor I used. I'll go out and dig through my electrical stuff and see if I can find it.

Last summer after all the hassle, I just put it all back together and everything worked fine. I figured the emissions stuff didn't help or hurt the performance in any way so it was a moot modification to begin with. One of those "If it ain't broke" issues at best.

The TORs and TOR map took care of any popping. Plus, the TOR and TOR map did increase the performance.
Mad`

kuhlka · 06-06-2006

Also, what wattage is the resistor you guys were using? I just bought a 22-ohm 1/2watt resistor from Radio Shack. It was the only 22ohm they had available...