Air Injection removal.

[Avi8or]

Anybody has the lowdown on removal and effects on ECU of this piece of problem causing equipment?
So what if a I make a few more grammes of CO CO2 NOx?
I HATE exhaust popping (not that I have any serious ones) and possibly looking forward to cooler (read less colourful) exhaust.

[Martin_R]

At least blocking the pipework has had no adverse effects on my bike (TORs + early TOR map). If you wish to keep your catalysator in good condition you should not block the SAI as the CAT most likely does not like the unburned fuel & constant running at a lower temp.

M8x25mm bolts+a few rounds of teflontape are perfect for blocking the three plastic reed valve covers that sit on the valve cover. I still have the solenoid valve in place, because I have not yet bothered to remove the tank & airbox to get rid of the whole thing.

If you remove the solenoid valve I am pretty sure you will have to measure the resistance of the original item and put a resistor in it's place, otherwise the ECU will go into error mode. A 20 ohm resistor does the trick on modern Suzukis so I would imagine the resistance needed to be in the same ballpark.

[Avi8or]

Thanks Marty............I'm thinking of getting a Zard or something and don't want no freaking catalyst obstructing my exhaust.
There is a TOR map for a no cat and no air injection. Was wondering if loading that map would prevent the ECU from misbehaving if I removed the SAI and Cats.

From Tuneboy site:

20100 20100 1050cc Speed Triple with standard exhaust with catalyst and secondary air injection

20101 20100 1050cc Speed Triple with standard exhaust

20102 20100 1050cc Speed Triple with aftermarket exhaust with catalyst and secondary air injection

20103 20100 1050cc Speed Triple with aftermarket exhaust


[ This message was edited by: Avi8or on 2006-05-31 11:20 ]

[Martin_R]

On 2006-05-31 10:56, Avi8or wrote:
Was wondering if loading that map would prevent the ECU from misbehaving if I removed the SAI and Cats.

That would be the current theory on t595.net, but no one has been able to give a definite answer.

Try and see? At worst the ECU will go into limp-home mode, but as you already must have some device to upload the maps you have the tools to clear the errors too. If an error is thrown a resistor is an easy addition if you pull the solenoid wire someplace a bit more accessible than the underside of the airbox.

20102 20100 1050cc Speed Triple with aftermarket exhaust with catalyst and secondary air injection

20103 20100 1050cc Speed Triple with aftermarket exhaust

I have compared these two in Tuneboy a while back and the fuel injection map, AF table and ignition map seem to be identical in every cell. So the conclusion would be that the differences are in the hidden program part. Maybe the latter map ignores the solenoid valve?

Wayne "the TuneBoy guy" McDonald said on t595.net that a non-SAI map should only be used with a blocked SAI as according to him with a non-SAI map the solenoid is open all the time. Sounds a bit strange to me, I would guess that the solenoid is closed by default, but Wayne is much more knowledgeable on these things.

[Diego]

The correct map will stop the popping without filtying up the air anyway.

[Martin_R]

On 2006-05-31 13:23, Diego wrote:
The correct map will stop the popping without filtying up the air anyway.

If the correct map would result in nothing to burn in the exhaust (=no popping at all) then the exhaust fumes will be just as clean with or without the SAI as there is nothing needing oxygen coming to the exhaust header. Yes?

Sadly I think, based on my own experience, that the correct map will only minimize the popping & low rev roughness, not stop it completely. And thus the only way to completely remove all burble is to block the oxygen source (=SAI).

[Avi8or]

I already have the:

20102 20100 1050cc Speed Triple with aftermarket exhaust with catalyst and secondary air injection map

installed by dealer for the TORS. I only get small pops( ) on the overrun, nothing disturbing, just thinking I'd rather have nice cool shiny headers if I get the Zard and tuneboy.

I gutted all the air injection shut on the Kawa and never had a pop since and the headers have remained (relatively) nice and shiny.

Thanks again all.

[ This message was edited by: Avi8or on 2006-05-31 14:04 ]

[kuhlka]

If anyone finds out what kind of resistor we'd need to bypass the SAI, I'd appreciate it. I'm doing a bit of research myself and found I have a California model S3. I'm going to be removing the carbon canister and doing a bunch of tidying up of the bike next week.