Triumphrat

jimmydean · 05-29-2006

I've had my S3 for 3 weeks now and the headers have become pretty ugly. Anyone know of any aftermarket ones? Or is this something I can do to bring my OEMs back to life?

It seems you can only get new headers from buying a Zard system, which is fugly in my opinion. :hammer:

Geof3 · 05-29-2006

Ah.. you gotta see the Zard in person... So far it's the only full system I am aware of...

Anyway, the pipes are simply reacting to heat. This is a permanent thing. Basically blueing the metal. Unless they are just dirty, for which motul makes a great engine clean. Post a pic...

[ This message was edited by: Geof3 on 2006-05-29 21:23 ]

Avi8or · 05-30-2006

I've always wanted to try this but the paint is not available over here.
Get the headers off, polish to you heart's delight and spray 'em with the clear one.

I reckon it will be some time b4 they oxidise again.

http://72.10.43.141/high_temp.htm

Also consider blocking off the air injection, since it's purpose is to burn contaminants in the exhaust, leading to higher temps therin. Just quoting someone else here.

If you try the paint let us know how it works out.

[ This message was edited by: Avi8or on 2006-05-30 02:16 ]

05-30-2006

Jimmydean - the state of your headers is largely down to the ****e quality of stainless Triumph have started using over the last few years. Mine are now a hideous dark brown with mottled patches, and the rest of the exhaust goes the same if it doesn't receive a vigorous rubbing with Solvol or similar abrasive polish.

The quality of stainless was much better on my 03 model, which resisited discolouring far better and required much less TLC to keep looking good.

Having seen the quality of the stainless that Trident (Wolf) use I've just ordered a half system from them to sort out the crappy pipework emanating from the headers, and as soon as that company or another produce some decent headers I'll be getting a set.

Unless the clear flame-proof coating mentioned actually works (and I hope it does), I'd advise against polishing your headers unless you really want to. Doing the job properly takes a fair while and is definitely a labour of love, but is ultimately a waste of time because 500 miles down the road you're back to square one....

Avi8or · 05-30-2006

Yes quality of stainless is one factor as is the running temperature in the exhaust. I beleive that due to the tree huggers, catalysts have to run at higher temps leading to greater discoloutation of the exhast system.
I polished my elbow about a month ago and seems to be holding up well. Just a little tinge of gold.

I would still think the VHT clear stuff prevents discolouration. How well it holds up is still open to debate however.

[ This message was edited by: Avi8or on 2006-05-30 09:30 ]

jimmydean · 05-30-2006

yes, mine are chocolate brown.....and I just bought it a month ago.

I'll post some pics per GEOF3 when I figure out how

I will polish it every night I guess; keep it in the habbit of brushing my teeth- twice daily.
Any one recommend a good polish? I've been using Neverdull. :hammer:

I may be buying a Trident half system but I want the rest of the system to look nice. The exhaust contrasting the black is what caught my eye.

Geof3 · 05-30-2006

Another thing with these new pipes is there is a pre-catalyst in the pipe before the O2 sensor (the welded cast piece)... Causes a much bigger heat build up in the header. My Zard header is only blued at the first joint. The rest is a nice brushed stainless... Runs the exhaust MUCH cooler...

Avi8or · 05-30-2006

Quote:

On 2006-05-30 11:57, jimmydean wrote:
yes, mine are chocolate brown.....and I just bought it a month ago.

I'll post some pics per GEOF3 when I figure out how

I will polish it every night I guess; keep it in the habbit of brushing my teeth- twice daily.
Any one recommend a good polish? I've been using Neverdull. :hammer:

I may be buying a Trident half system but I want the rest of the system to look nice. The exhaust contrasting the black is what caught my eye.

Elbow grease and lots of it.
You need to get the exhaust off to do a proper job. Start with a fine file (for the rough cast parts) and remove the casting marks and pitting. File as smooth as you can. Then go over to #80 or #100 wet & dry with water and remove ALL the file marks & scratches. Then finer say #180 wet & dry and remove ALL #80 scratch marks. Then 360, 600, finishing off with #1200. By this time you should have quite a nice shine. Get out your buffer and use your favourite polish to buff up to a nice shine.

jimmydean · 05-31-2006

Wow, that elbow looks great. Did you do the job you stated while it was on the bike or did you remove it? How long did it take you?

Avi8or · 06-01-2006

Quote:

On 2006-05-31 20:11, jimmydean wrote:
Wow, that elbow looks great. Did you do the job you stated while it was on the bike or did you remove it? How long did it take you?

You can polish up the elbow on the bike but it's better to take it off. It's a few minutes straight forward job to get the cans and elbow off. Headers are a wee bit more involved. There's a thread somewhere on getting the headers off.

Time taken to polish? Depends on how much filing and rubbing, and buffing equipment available.