Tank removal....draining gas

[jdub3]

I need to remove my tank and side fairings on my 05 triple to get some custom paint work done.

Shouldn't be too big of a deal but how should I go about draining the gas? Any other tips on the removal will be helpful. Still working on getting myself a service manual.

Thx

[Curmudgeon]

There's no need to drain the gas to remove the tank. Here's how I remove my tank:

(1) Remove the bolts that hold the tank to the side panels.
(2) Remove the bolt at the rear of the tank.
(3) Loosen the screw at the front of the tank enough to be able to lift up the back of the tank to access the hoses and wires that connect to the tank.
(4) Slide the two vent hoses off their nipples. They're near the left side. Keep track of which hose goes to which nipple.
(5) Remove the fuel supply hose by pushing the buttons to release it from the fitting on the tank. You'll lose a few drops of fuel at this point.
(6) Remove the electrical connection by pushing up on the clip and sliding the plug off the fitting on the tank.
(7) Slide the tank back and up to free it from the front bolt and your tank is removed.

[jdub3]

Thanks for the tips!!!

As far as draining the gas, I have to do so for the paint job. I have to remove all other pieces attached to the tank as well...hoses, gas cap, etc.

Thx

[Curmudgeon]

Happy to help with the removal tips. I haven't drained gas from my S3's tank, but I'd guess it would be best to drain most of it through the fuel supply fitting (after the tank is off the bike), then get the last bit out by turning the tank upside down after you remove the gas cap fitting.

[jdub3]

Sounds like what I was thinking. Should be a fun adventure since I haven't removed these parts yet.

I'm going to cry having no bike for two weeks. Though there is an R1 parked next to it in my garage, it's not plated. Hmm....



For the record, in two weeks grey will be the fastest color. No decals. Mmm.

Thanks again.

[13]

All of above...

Additionally, less awkward to ride bike to "near" empty (fuel light should come on?) if convenient. Don't run out, gas cools fuel pump! Running out not good.

Or siphon method: four foot tube +- ; hose in tank; suck tube, careful not to swallow fuel (sounds like a wholesome time if Angie's involved); place hose lower than tank into drain can to help siphon action. Later, turning tank upside down to help get last drops if you can't get right angle through fuel lines (the rest will evaporate with tank open, cover opening w/ clean towel)...

On disassembly, quick release fittings are "closed" when disconnected: Remove fitting- clamp w/ fuel can ready for drainage. As mentioned, some quick disconnects leak more than others: Use small rubber "corks" in fitting(s) if you don't want any spills (or to stop continuous flow)... Have extra fittings ready (cheap at dealer) in case spring/ clip assembly falls apart. It's easy to reassemble - if you can find the tiny 1/8 inch spring/ pin/ clip that'll try to get away (you don't want small loose metal parts bouncing around engine so watch those bits)! A magnet/ mirror/ light will help find errant parts.

Don't force tank off till sure all electrical plugs freed - recall 2 separate connectors on my vintage '00! Dielectric grease or Vaseline all connectors at reassembly for nice weather/ corrosion protection.

Tip: Carry extra o-rings in bottom of Zippo lighter or cushioned plastic bags so yur ready for leaks. I've reused old o-rings too many times to count (even rebuilding high pressure systems, up to 10,000 PSI, Austin "Danger" Powers)! If the o-ring is noticeably swollen, has a nick or cut, I wouldn't use it unless none other available. On the old plastic Triumph fittings which I still use and prefer (lighter), the trick is to not crush/ pinch o-rings in storage (new or old), then lube w/ Zip-Slip, Vaseline, dielectric grease or even spit to get it in there without pinching or binding. Experimentally, I've seen several new o-rings fail because no lube used on assembly, conversely several old o-rings "seat" well for continuous service w/ lube!

Don't mean to be presumptuous, make sure painter understands clearly not to get paint/ debris in tank to avoid strange fuel problems later. Also, don't think wise to hi-temp bake paint on plastic tanks (if paint your using requires hi-temp curing).

Inspect work at paint shop closely for warps/ debris in tank before taking home!

Hope this helps!

[TrackerOldGuy]

A marine siphon from your local boat joint works with
a hand pump primer thus avoid the drink gasoline
problem.
Also using several towels under the ends of the tank
allows one person to remove the breather/fuel/electric lines.

[MonkeyHanger]

Just a quick tip; make sure the vent hoses go back on the right place; I marked one with sone tape to make sure on re assemly.
Taking the hardware from inside the tank is a bit fiddly but it will come out; be gentle its fragile.
MH

[jdub3]

Well, it's off. Removing the electrical plug was a pain in the @ss. Maybe it was just my bike. But it took A LOT of effort to slide it out. But it's done.

Removing the hardware from the tank took a little bit of adjusting it around. Not sure how easily it will go back in.

I actually also did put plastic over all the hoses and tape them off. My common garage for my condo has a lot of dust so I wanted to keep it clean, obviously. The bike has a dust cover on it as well.

I taped one of the two nipples from the tank so I know which is which.

The tank is currently wrapped in in garbage bag and wrapped in plastic again, to double insure no elements get in.

The real test will be putting this back together without scratching my new paint.

Taking the parts in this morning. Will post pics when she's all back together.

Painting the tank, side fairings, seat cowl, and fly screen grey. Leaving the belly pan black to match the engine. Think it will look better this way.

Always fun to get more intimate with the bike so it was an adventure.

[13]

Yea, ALL those connectors'r like a Chinese puzzle - I'm always freaked I'll loose those tiny squarish electrical retaining clips (you'll likely see if ever removing coolant filler fittings/ electrical from airbox, for airbox removal for coils/ plugs/ throttle body/ valve cover access)...

That said, while tanks off, convenient time for new plugs & check resistance at coils connection with ohm meter (.07 ohms on '00), except it's an '05 so probably okay if running well!

Maybe take airfilter out and blow air through back of it w/ compressed air (paying close attention to direction filter facing BEFORE removal, so you don't put in backwards). Mine was full of broken leaf bits/ fine road grit at last check couple of weeks ago, and not running any better for it! You can use a small vacuum attachment and flashlight to GENTLY vacuum airbox out if not removing completely. Just don't push debris into those 3 round metal holes (throttle bodies) you might see in airbox.

W/ bike level, check yur coolant level/ color too!

Congrats! Yur about a eighth of works away from a future valve check/ adjustment btw, if '05 anything like '00...

Take it easy!