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I haven't set up FM (absolutely NOTHING on the FM dial worth listening to in the NYC area, IMO), but I have been using a variety of mp3 players - my current favorite is a flash memory stick player, 1 GB, which gives me about 6 hours of music at a pretty fair bitrate. I have been using the middle line Shure earbuds - model is E3C - but they make both cheaper and more expensive ones. Some people prefer the Etymotic research units in the same price range, and if you're not a nut case about audio, there are cheaper (or more expensive) units - check eBay. I find that the earphones give decent ambient noise reduction, so they've replaced my earplugs for most riding. IF you don't blast the phones, you can still hear traffic, so you're not totally cut off from the world, but it's probably illegal in some areas. My particular mp3 player also has FM, and will run about 15-20 hours on a single AAA cell, so "installation" is pretty simple (pop it in your pocket!) The earphones fit is perfect under my open face helmet, and once you've picked the right set of cushions for YOUR ear, they're quite comfortable. Although, if you do some research, you'll find that some people just can't seem to find a comfortable fit. Good luck, keep us posted on your final solution!
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