I started "tripling" this year, with an imported bike (service history unknown), so problems slowly come to the surface.
My bike's first electrical symptom:
It's a 2002 model with light switch, so it can go without any lights (I have a 2004 donor/replacement bike too which don't have the switch).
Cold start as I remember always okay, it doesn't matter if the light switch on or off. But: if the bike was ridden enough and stopped, and the light switch is on, then:
1. starts normally
2. the starter turns so slow like a half turn
My second problem came up last Sunday, I rode about 200 kms away from home, filled the tank up, went back to the road, and the bike started to bwaaaaaa (like no fuel or spark stall) + check engine light, so I switched the kill switch off and on.. just to see that the display stay off no nothing...
I thought: fuse/battery/ECU , and fortunately only a fuse, but one of the two 30A fuses went off = nasty burn on it and the fuse box lid/cap slightly melted too.. (dont know the number of it now, but it is the third fuse from the bike's left to right)
So I started to look into it:
Third problem, mine uses just the left headlight for low beam and the right for high. After the R1 I sold, the light quality is ****. No wonder as the bulb get only 8-9 volts, so as Decosse's wrote in his headlight improvement post if 12,8volts = 1000 lumen, 10,5 =500, then I have a canclestick.
If I turn the ignition on, then there's an instant voltage drop between the battery (-) and the fuse box's terminals which at least 1 Volt, but if I switch the lights on, then some drops the same amount, some drops more, and the mentioned (30A) fuse gets hot.
Yesterday I checked my donor/second bike, and there's no significant voltage drop (a few tenths and hundredths).
So the problem(s) lie in the harness, but as I'm not an electrician, I don't have much clues where to start.
My bike's first electrical symptom:
It's a 2002 model with light switch, so it can go without any lights (I have a 2004 donor/replacement bike too which don't have the switch).
Cold start as I remember always okay, it doesn't matter if the light switch on or off. But: if the bike was ridden enough and stopped, and the light switch is on, then:
1. starts normally
2. the starter turns so slow like a half turn
My second problem came up last Sunday, I rode about 200 kms away from home, filled the tank up, went back to the road, and the bike started to bwaaaaaa (like no fuel or spark stall) + check engine light, so I switched the kill switch off and on.. just to see that the display stay off no nothing...
I thought: fuse/battery/ECU , and fortunately only a fuse, but one of the two 30A fuses went off = nasty burn on it and the fuse box lid/cap slightly melted too.. (dont know the number of it now, but it is the third fuse from the bike's left to right)
So I started to look into it:
Third problem, mine uses just the left headlight for low beam and the right for high. After the R1 I sold, the light quality is ****. No wonder as the bulb get only 8-9 volts, so as Decosse's wrote in his headlight improvement post if 12,8volts = 1000 lumen, 10,5 =500, then I have a canclestick.
If I turn the ignition on, then there's an instant voltage drop between the battery (-) and the fuse box's terminals which at least 1 Volt, but if I switch the lights on, then some drops the same amount, some drops more, and the mentioned (30A) fuse gets hot.
Yesterday I checked my donor/second bike, and there's no significant voltage drop (a few tenths and hundredths).
So the problem(s) lie in the harness, but as I'm not an electrician, I don't have much clues where to start.