Cracked Sump

I changed the spark plugs yesterday... put the rest of the bike back together started it up and it was running sweet. Patted myself on the back, and decided to change the oil.

I noticed the sump plug was very tight, and had a different washer than the normal sealing washers. I drained the oil, took the a new sealing sump washer and put it on the plug started to torque it down. Before I got anywhere near the specified torque, my sump got two hairline cracks on both sides of the plug hole.

Then I cried...

Anyone know if the sump can be fixed or if I need or can get a new one for a 2001 ... dealers closed today and its driving me nuts.

[Avi8or]

I reckon if you find a demon alloy welder he should be able to fix it up. Unless labour charges over there are way too high, check out prices for the welding and the new sump.
Sump's prolly got to come off anyway though.

[crashmasterd]

I would tend to agree that a good welder could fix this cheaper than buying a new sump. Make sure to insist that the welder is going to either "TIG weld" the part, or "Heli-arc" it. (Basically the same process.)

Probably it will need some machining too.

Alternately, you may be able to find a used one somewhere.

I'm more interested as to why it cracked to begin with. Pictures please?

Should be able to tig weld it. If it's just a hairline crack from the stress of the oil drain plug I might consider using a dremel and cleaning up the crack, roughing up the surface and using JB weld. I own a tig welder and would have no problem using JB weld on a cast piece of porous alloy if it's not a structural part.

I just went in the garage and checked my sump, welding it shouldn't be a problem, if your looking for someone to weld it check with your airports that maintain small aircraft, there is usually a good weld shop familiar with aluminum.

[kuhlka]

Heh, if you lived closer I'd weld it for you for free. Hell, if you mail it to me I'll weld it for free. I went to Hobart Welding Institute for 10 months to learn pipe/plate, all position, mild steel, aluminum, stainless, and titanium, GMAW (wire-feed/gun), SMAW (stick), GTAW (heli-arc/TIG), and oxy-acetylene.

Lemme know if you can't find anyone local to entrust with your bit and I'll do my best to make it good as new.

Hard to get a good picture since the crack is thin... its the best I could do

Wheee $450 for a new one... but I did find someone who would try to weld it.

[Legman]

I would not give it to someone who will "try to weld it". Find someone who knows that they can weld it. I had the same problem with the same cause on a early model Z1 900 kawasaki in the early 70's. I found an expert aluminium welder and he repaired it with no dramas. Good luck.

[crashmasterd]

I have to agree here with Legman. You'd better get someone who is sure about what they are doing. Welding cast aluminum isn't as easy as welding structural aluminum. Internal stresses from the casting process can easily cause more cracks in adjacent areas.

From the picture I think this is what happened to you. An internal flaw, or stress line, was aggravated by tightening the drain plug. I would guess that there are more stress lines that you can't see. Applying heat to the effected area may cause them to pop.

A professional welder will know what to do to avoid this. Look for someone who has experience welding on aluminum heads.