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Old 03-15-2006   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-03-15 09:58, kuhlka wrote:
Oh, the 'pushing the pistons back into the calipers' aka 'exercising the pistons' as well as pumping the brake lever and/or zip-tying it overnight are just temporary fixes.
Just out of curiosity: what are the mechanics behind the pushing the pistons back method? Why does it help?

The piston-seal contact area will get a flushing with brake fluid
-> the piston-seal contact will be more slippery until the contact area dries up again and the seals start to stick?

Or something completely different?
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Old 03-15-2006   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-03-15 09:56, kuhlka wrote:
I installed a 5/8 MC and haven't noticed what you guys are talking about, so it must be a negligible change in force. Hell, I even have shorty levers and only use two fingers for braking AND stoppies. Maybe you pansies just need stronger fingers and better bleeding skills. My brakes don't go to ***** until my pads need to be replaced, and even then I can still pump the brakes up to get feel again.

My recommendations for your 05+ S3 issue is doing the caliper rebuild as mentioned on t595 and here, and start stocking the 5/8 nissin master cylinders and double H brake pads for customers to buy when they want a little extra umph. With those changes, the brakes should stop like a SOB and stoppie on demand.
Yes, as far a stopping power the brakes are super with HH pads. The lever travel is the only issue. Mine would stroke about 1.5 inches before anything happenes, some folks report worse than that. I've gotten in the habit on trying the brakes on new bikes when I'm in a shop. All the new Triumphs seem to be kind of soft, Ducati's are very solid.
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Old 03-15-2006   #13 (permalink)
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I thought we decided to ban brake threads...

While the lever doesn't have an "on-off" feel, they are still some of the most powerful out there. There was a test done recently and the S3 brakes hold the record for shortest stop distance... Good enough for me...
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Old 03-15-2006   #14 (permalink)
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My 2006 doesn't have a problem with the brakes YET!
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Old 03-15-2006   #15 (permalink)
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i've noticed it on mine too.
it's not drastic but there's a difference for sure.
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Old 03-15-2006   #16 (permalink)
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yep I noticed it too, right after that I installed my brembo radial master and new spiegler line. NO more problems with lever travel :-D
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Old 03-16-2006   #17 (permalink)
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No problems yet on my '06. Does anyone know if the oem banjos and nuts are stainless?
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Old 03-16-2006   #18 (permalink)
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I'm not saying its a problem on all of the bikes. The 05s seemed to have more of a problem with mushy brakes than the 06s.

I think what the piston pushing fix does is force any little air bubbles out of the calipers (but back into the lines), which is why it is only a temporary fix.

What I do when I go to bleed my brakes is pump the brakes, open bleeder, compress calipers by pushing the pads into pistons, pump the lever and run fluid through, and compress calipers a few times more to make sure no little air bubbles are trapped AFTER the bleeder valve. This is a VERY good way to get a nice firm pull from your lever, as well as changing out your pads when they're looking low. Right now my pads are down to about an 1/8" and the brakes are getting pretty mushy again so I'm buying new pads. However, I put around 7,000 miles on these pads with a LOT of stoppies and general hard braking play.

Oh, and on a side note, the 675 Daytona is in this month's Sport Rider with excellent review and there is a synthetic oil article in the back of the mag as well. A few other articles of note are in there too.
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Old 03-16-2006   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-03-16 08:05, kuhlka wrote:

I think what the piston pushing fix does is force any little air bubbles out of the calipers (but back into the lines), which is why it is only a temporary fix.

If there is air in the system it does not matter whether it isin the calibers or in the brake line. It will feel mushy. The problem is not the air. You can bleed the brakes million times using wacuum pumps or whatever and the lever travel will come back after a while. Not major issue for me anyway because the braking power is still excellent.

There is absolutely no need to unbolt the calibers to push the pistons in. It is a one minute job and the brakes will feel firmer for a week or so.
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Old 03-16-2006   #20 (permalink)
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Another '06 owner with 1,600 miles and no problems so far. Incidentally, I had the excess lever travel problem with my '97 T595 Daytona. Pushing the pistons back into the calipers solved the problem on that bike.
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