Front Brake Lever Comes Back To Grip

[jaypeekay]

Hi Everyone
My front brake lever when pulled in, comes back very close to the grip.

I bled the system last week so I don't think there is any air in the lines - also when I pump the lever several times, it doesn't harden much and still comes all the way back to the grip.

Bike still stops ok - little squeal as per normal.

Can't tell if it has been getting worse.

Brake pads look ok - about 4mm left on both sides.

Steel brake lines.

09 Speed Triple 5K miles.

Any ideas?

I read in another thread, the earlier calipers (up to '07), the pistons had a tendancy to stay out rather than retract when you let go of the lever - not sure if this is happening with mine.

Anyway, before I investigate further, I would welcome any comments or advice.

Thanks.

[Lord Flashheart]

It's highly likely there's still some air in there. When I did my brake caliper swap I did extensive research on this issue - many people have experienced difficulties with the bleeding operation on our bikes.

I attacked the problem by adopting not one but two of the proven methods for a successful bleeding operation. I bought a set of speed bleeders - bleed nipples with little one-way valves built in. They have coated threads which really seal well.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Secondly, per DieselGeek's recommendation, I bought a mity-vac vacuum pump which is a big help (especially if you're working on your own).

I did a Gixxer caliper installation (including the master cylinder), so we're not comparing apples with apples, but my brake lever feels like iron - I can't get it within 3/4" of the grip, but I'd be going over the handlebars if I got the lever within an inch of the bar while I was riding.

So I'd recommend another attempt at bleeding your system.

[noobinacan]

did it do that before you did the bleed ?
if not, then you didn't bleed correctly. Try bleeding again with the correct method.
press lever - open valve -watch fluid flow- close valve - pump lever.

Originally Posted by Lord Flashheart

It's highly likely there's still some air in there. When I did my brake caliper swap I did extensive research on this issue - many people have experienced difficulties with the bleeding operation on our bikes.

Sorry, don't need any special stuff to bleed.
speed bleeders do help, but I still do the above manual step even with the speed bleeders.

bleeding brakes, is bleeding brakes, our bike is no different than a WSBK.

[Lord Flashheart]

Originally Posted by noobinacan

Sorry, don't need any special stuff to bleed.
speed bleeders do help, but I still do the above manual step even with the speed bleeders.

bleeding brakes, is bleeding brakes, our bike is no different than a WSBK.

Don't feel the need to apologise!

But I beg to differ - one guy on here found it nearly impossible to bleed his brakes. I've always thought that variability in the manufacturing processes probably leaves some calipers with extra voids or airways, or hoses with a little extra 'give' at the crimped ends.

It's an undeniable fact that you can pull fluid 'uphill' into voids and dead-ends with a vacuum pump, something you could never do with a straightforward 'push' from the master cylinder. The Mity-Vac was recommended by a professional mechanic: that's good enough for me.

Additionally, part of the advantage of the Speed Bleeder design is that thick coating of sealant on the threads. It absolutely makes a difference compared to uncoated bleed nipples (although you can 'fake' it with PTFE tape). Aren't you worried, Noob, about wearing that coating off when you revert to the manual open/close routine with the Speed Bleeders? Seems to me that it destroys the whole point of having them.

Either way up, I still reckon the OP has air in his system.

[noobinacan]

umm...you're still opening/closing your speed bleeder.
plus its not the coating that plugging the hole, its the bleed screw...its never been a problem.
95+ % of the bikes have standard nipples.

anyways, my experience is with a M8 wrench and milk bottle with hose, I can be done with bleeding my bike in 5 mins flat. don't need to be any quicker.

the trick is to bleed with gold fluid when you have ATE superblue in system and vice versa, so you know when the bleed's done.

[rubber biscuit]

There may be nothing wrong with your brakes. Just went out to the garage to check the action on my 509. I can,with a pretty good pull bring its brake lever almost back to the the bar too, but in real use that for me translates to good modulation, and the kind of pull required to get it that close = a howling front tire! I think the 509 brakes are that good! I've bled my brakes several times during routine fluid changes and they've not changed one bit, didn't want them to. If you do use a mighty vac the bleeder threads must be sealed 'cause air will be sucked down the screw threads and escape through the nipple. You won't know if those bubbles are air from the system or meaningless.

[Speed3]

+1 on Speed Bleeders, and Mityvac. I have both, and it makes brake bleeding a piece of cake.

[Mello]

If the problem existed BEFORE the OP bled the brakes, then he may have a faulty master cylinder. I had the front brake on my Street Triple R (radial MC) go from firm to mushy over about a week. It eventually went from mushy to no brakes a few days later.
I replaced the Master Cylinder and bled the brakes manually. Perfectly firm lever and problem solved. The speed bleeders and mightyvac kits do help make the process faster but are not necessary to complete the job correctly.

[Night Train]

This problem doesn't sound normal. I agree with the above that it could be a fault MC. I'd get that checked out or replace.


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[ilovheros]

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...FUKd4Aod82oAxQ I love this tool. Super easy. Changing from gold to blue is a great idea Noob.