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Motomfg Bike Lift / Paddock Stand Group Buy (Now Extended through Dec 25)

41K views 175 replies 38 participants last post by  DEcosse 
#1 ·
Moderator Sponsored Group Buy

Introducing a great deal on a stand/lift from Motomfg that lifts your complete bike - single device replaces separate Front & Rear stands.




Here is demo of the product (albeit with Ducati for illustration):




Please see product review of features on my Triumph in Post # 44 of this thread


Big News!

I just chatted with Greg at MotoMFG this morning - he has just completed the Speed Triple Adapter and the Speed Triple kit is now available for immediate sale, even though not yet posted on the site
But ......... there's even better news - I discussed potential for Group Buy and he has committed to a significant discount on an already excellent price.
(List Price on the MotoMFG is $340 for stand plus $110 wheel kit & $35 shipping)

The Group Buy Pricing for quantity of 10 will be -13% off List Plus $35 shipping.

$295.80 for the Stand with Model Specific Adapter Kit

$95.70 for the Optional Wheel Kit.

$35 Shipping (US & Canada)



(At this time Overseas shipping looks to be prohibitively expensive due to size & weight)

The Group Buy pricing will apply to other Triumph Kit available - 675 Daytona & Street Triple
However if you want one for ANY of the available Make/Model kits - incl non-Triumph - this GB will also be open to those also if already registered here.*

Note that the Speed Triple Kit should fit any 02-10 Speed Triple or 02-06 Daytona 955

**** Stop Press - Sprint has just been added and is also now available ****

Group Buy has been extended and will now run through December 25th for orders to ship before year-end.


Please confirm your committed interest to be included in the GB.


1. DEcosse (S3 - Stand plus Wheels)
2. Jeremy J (S3 - Stand plus Wheels)
3. Bira (Street - Stand plus Wheels)
4. FoothillRyder (S3 - Stand plus Wheels)
5. drsib (S3 - Stand plus Wheels)
6. edgedweapon88 (Street -Stand plus Wheels)
7. Lord Flashheart (S3 - Stand plus Wheels)
8. Creative (Street -Stand plus Wheels)
9. DieselGeek (S3 - Stand plus Wheels)
10. Cotriumph (S3 - Stand plus Wheels)
11. mrandoms (Street - Stand plus wheels)
12. champ87 - (Sprint - Stand plus wheels)
13. pingpong - (Sprint - Stand plus wheels)
14. Afrog - (Daytona 955 - Stand plus wheels plus GSXR Adapter Kit)
15. talker13 - (Daytona 675 - Stand plus wheels)
16. Mcouper - (Street - Stand plus wheels)
17. Motobu - (Sprint GT))


Just a quick post-script - Motomfg also has nice Rear Axle Nut Socket(46mm) for the Triumph SSSA and also has Chain Adjuster Tool.
So if you need either of those, you might pick up at the same time.





* Participants must be existing member (min 30 days) in good standing to participate.
 
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#69 ·
they don't support the 2007 Suzuki GSXRs...at least yet....
The 07 GSXR 600 & 750 should be the same ?????
The frame is identical so the listed 750 fitment should also be the same. - http://www.motomfg.com/MotoMfg_paddock_stand_Suzuki_p/ps-5.htm

..... I guess my concern is if it plays nicely with the fairings in place, or if removal would be required ....
I would believe it should work fine on the Daytona without removing the fairings - the base is extremely low profile and it lifts directly from the frame (see the pictures of mine above)

As long as your swing-arm spindle is the 17mm hex on left side, (and it should, having checked pictures of CE mode) will be fine.
 
#73 ·
Merry Christmas to me! Placed my order and added the wheels.

Ken, I can't tell how wide the stand is under the bike. Do you mind measuring how much space the bike sticks out from the wall in that last pic of yours? I am planning on moving some shelves and reorganizing to have a nice place to store my bike, but I want to make sure it will leave enough room to walk by.
 
#75 ·
.... Do you mind measuring how much space the bike sticks out from the wall in that last pic of yours? ....
My mirror would actually touch the garage door (or wall) before the stand touches on that side
With the bike pushed all the way in the outside extreme of the stand is 32" from the wall and almost exactly in line with the end of the left handlebar.
Turning handlebars full left, will go in a little deeper (but still limited by the mirror) and to the extreme of the stand is now 30"

Hope that helps
 
#78 ·
Any chance we (you!) can discuss a mini GB for Oz customers? It seems there's at least 2 of us...Mainly just to try a different freight arrangement as I've found you can often do much better without too much trouble.
Appreciate all your efforts Ken.
 
#83 ·
Just placed my order and everything went through as it should! Can't wait for the package to show up now. :D
 
#84 ·
I've placed my order as well, and other than a double-charge to my PayPal (VERY quickly corrected with one e-mail) it was a piece of cake. Looks like they won't be shipping until they've received the first 10 orders using this code, so if ya signed up and you haven't ordered, the rest of us are waitin' on YOU.

:cool:
 
#86 ·
That's exactly what you get now Jeremy -
Pull in the way you're facing now, pop the bike on the stand and push it straight into the slot - when ready to go, pull it out, spin it around 180 (pretty sure it will fit to rotate even in that space between the car & wall) and then remove the stand. Voila!! Good to go! :D

Incidentally quick plug for those of you who have garage door openers - I use Flash2pass - that is a great asset to have!
 
#95 ·
Set-Up Notes:

This will make more sense when you actually get the stand and go to align it.
The following is my experience with the Speed Triple set-up - and already different from the recommended position due to my rear-sets.
With the pre-05 S3 (FoothillRyder) you may also find different bolt position required due to different OEM rearsets between the model years, or of course any with after-market sets regardless of model.
The install notes do advise of this already.
Also the balance may be quite different on the Street & Sprint so take into consideration accordingly.

1. Start by installing the adapter bushing in the frame. Then simply align the two pins on the adapter plate so they are correctly spaced with respect to each other.
Do this before you attach the plate to the stand by just presenting the plate with pins to the bike, and adjust and tighten.
The two pins should be able to slip in & out effortlessly if spacing is correct.
The top pin is fixed (although you will need to align the hole position for the safety pin); the bottom is the one that moves vertically in the slot in the plate to align the spacing correctly.
Once these are fixed, there should be no reason to ever re-adjust these. It is now ready to attach to the stand lift plate.

2. The recommended clamp-bolt position hole # 7 (which also dictates the spacing of the horizontal adjustment) put the main vertical element of the stand interfering with my gear-shift pedal. I selected hole # 3 which moves the whole stand further forward. This in itself has no bearing on the final operation or tilt, just recognize that if not using the recommended hole, you may need to adjust the pitch between bolts of the horizontal adjusting screw.
So selecting a different mounting hole along the horizontal axis will simply move the main stand position forward or aft; and the vertical hole position, in conjunction with the slot in the adapter plate, will determine the pins vertical position. The spacing of the 'horizontal adjustment rod' will dictate the relative angle off vertical between the pins
Picture below shows my selected position # 3 - # 7 would be the lower right one (looking from bike perspective out)

Note that when you are positioning the adapter plate, you cannot access the main clamp bolt to tighten once stand is in place;
so you want it just in just lightly snug enough so you can move it slightly if required, but will maintain its position as you withdraw the stand once you get it set where you want it.
**Don't attempt to lift the bike like this of course - this is only for alignment position with bike upright but still on the floor**
The two nyloc nuts should not be tightened completely down while adjusting the position of the plate;
note that with the adjuster rod at a preset length, as you move the adapter plate up or down in the slot, it will change the angle between the pins (i.e. the plate will rotate slightly as moved up or down)
Do not attempt to change the length of the rod with the nyloc nuts and the clamp bolt tightened down - the adjuster rod will bend!
Again this will make more sense when you see & play with it and recognize the inter-relationship with how the adjuster rod affects the angular relationship between the pins.



3. The recommended set-up - which is designed to get the bike 'balance' front to rear to be horizontal - will mean that the pins will not perfectly align as you present the stand to the bike.
In the S3's case this would mean the bottom pin would actually be forward of the swing-arm spindle, when the top pin is in position.
The process suggests that the stand will rotate on the first engaged pin to bring both into alignment where they can then be fully engaged. This may actually raise the rear of the stand off the ground.

In practice this was more awkward for me personally at least, while supporting weight of bike with left hand on bar - especially since on the S3 both pins engage at about the same time as opposed to the suggestion of one entering first before the second enters - I think practically, you would really need to put toe under rear end and help to pivot into place to engage it.
After messing with that for some time, I ended up adjusting the position of the adapter plate with the horizontal adjuster set such that the pins are perfectly aligned to each receptor.
Now the stand will wheel directly, with the pins gliding effortlessly into their respective sockets.
When the bike is raised like this, there WILL be a downward tilt if set up this way.
The picture I posted below is with it set up like this. Both wheels are still off the ground, so this is my personal preference.

So - you can set it up per the instructions and finagle it for initial engagement and get perfect height balance front-to-rear;
or you can go as I did and make the engagement simple and smooth and live with a little tilt.
Not saying my set-up is 'right' or 'better' - your personal preference may be to set up as the designer intended and recommends/instructs.
I may go back and re-try as-intended and 'practice' engagement technique, however for now, I am happy as-is, especially since it achieves the primary objective of getting both wheels in air.
I could push mine into engagement with one finger.
There is nothing wrong with the design that causes this, it simply comes down to the suspension loading of the bike on the ground, which dictates the vertical relationship of the lifting points when sat on its own weight, vs lifted by the stand. This will clearly be different between models and/or suspension pre-loads.

YMMV! :D




p.s. I should mention, in case not obvious, that to release the lock to lower the bike, initially press DOWN on the handle slightly, and maintain pressure while you pull the lock release knob, then slowly raise the handle.
It does not actually include that specific instruction (for lock release) in the procedure, however it does caution strongly not to be an idiot and let the lever hit you in the face! :p

A helper to set up initially might be an asset as you are trying to hold up the bike while setting up adjustment of the plate alignment - although I did it unassisted.

p.p.s For those curious why I might park the bike in front of the garage door, that is actually the REAR door - I have a pass-through garage with a double door at the front and single at the rear.

:D
 
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