This will make more sense when you actually get the stand and go to align it.
The following is my experience with the Speed Triple set-up - and already different from the recommended position due to my rear-sets.
With the pre-05 S3 (FoothillRyder) you may also find different bolt position required due to different OEM rearsets between the model years, or of course any with after-market sets regardless of model.
The install notes do advise of this already.
Also the balance may be quite different on the Street & Sprint so take into consideration accordingly.
1. Start by installing the adapter bushing in the frame. Then simply align the two pins on the adapter plate so they are correctly spaced with respect to each other.
Do this before you attach the plate to the stand by just presenting the plate with pins to the bike, and adjust and tighten.
The two pins should be able to slip in & out effortlessly if spacing is correct.
The top pin is fixed (although you will need to align the hole position for the safety pin); the bottom is the one that moves vertically in the slot in the plate to align the spacing correctly.
Once these are fixed, there should be no reason to ever re-adjust these. It is now ready to attach to the stand lift plate.
2. The recommended clamp-bolt position hole # 7 (which also dictates the spacing of the horizontal adjustment) put the main vertical element of the stand interfering with my gear-shift pedal. I selected hole # 3 which moves the whole stand further forward. This in itself has no bearing on the final operation or tilt, just recognize that if not using the recommended hole, you may need to adjust the pitch between bolts of the horizontal adjusting screw.
So selecting a different mounting hole along the horizontal axis will simply move the main stand position forward or aft; and the vertical hole position, in conjunction with the slot in the adapter plate, will determine the pins vertical position. The spacing of the 'horizontal adjustment rod' will dictate the relative angle off vertical between the pins
Picture below shows my selected position # 3 - # 7 would be the lower right one (looking from bike perspective out)
Note that when you are positioning the adapter plate, you cannot access the main clamp bolt to tighten once stand is in place;
so you want it just in just lightly snug enough so you can move it slightly if required, but will maintain its position as you withdraw the stand once you get it set where you want it.
**Don't attempt to lift the bike like this of course - this is only for alignment position with bike upright but still on the floor**
The two nyloc nuts should not be tightened completely down while adjusting the position of the plate;
note that with the adjuster rod at a preset length, as you move the adapter plate up or down in the slot, it will change the angle between the pins (i.e. the plate will rotate slightly as moved up or down)
Do not attempt to change the length of the rod with the nyloc nuts and the clamp bolt tightened down - the adjuster rod will bend!
Again this will make more sense when you see & play with it and recognize the inter-relationship with how the adjuster rod affects the angular relationship between the pins.
3. The recommended set-up - which is designed to get the bike 'balance' front to rear to be horizontal - will mean that the pins will not perfectly align as you present the stand to the bike.
In the S3's case this would mean the bottom pin would actually be forward of the swing-arm spindle, when the top pin is in position.
The process suggests that the stand will rotate on the first engaged pin to bring both into alignment where they can then be fully engaged. This may actually raise the rear of the stand off the ground.
In practice this was more awkward for me personally at least, while supporting weight of bike with left hand on bar - especially since on the S3 both pins engage at about the same time as opposed to the suggestion of one entering first before the second enters - I think practically, you would really need to put toe under rear end and help to pivot into place to engage it.
After messing with that for some time, I ended up adjusting the position of the adapter plate with the horizontal adjuster set such that the pins are perfectly aligned to each receptor.
Now the stand will wheel directly, with the pins gliding effortlessly into their respective sockets.
When the bike is raised like this, there WILL be a downward tilt if set up this way.
The picture I posted below is with it set up like this. Both wheels are still off the ground, so this is my personal preference.
So - you can set it up per the instructions and finagle it for initial engagement and get perfect height balance front-to-rear;
or you can go as I did and make the engagement simple and smooth and live with a little tilt.
Not saying my set-up is 'right' or 'better' - your personal preference may be to set up as the designer intended and recommends/instructs.
I may go back and re-try as-intended and 'practice' engagement technique, however for now, I am happy as-is, especially since it achieves the primary objective of getting both wheels in air.
I could push mine into engagement with one finger.
There is nothing wrong with the design that causes this, it simply comes down to the suspension loading of the bike on the ground, which dictates the vertical relationship of the lifting points when sat on its own weight, vs lifted by the stand. This will clearly be different between models and/or suspension pre-loads.
p.s. I should mention, in case not obvious, that to release the lock to lower the bike, initially press DOWN on the handle slightly, and maintain pressure while you pull the lock release knob, then slowly raise the handle.
It does not actually include that specific instruction (for lock release) in the procedure, however it does caution strongly not to be an idiot and let the lever hit you in the face!
A helper to set up initially might be an asset as you are trying to hold up the bike while setting up adjustment of the plate alignment - although I did it unassisted.
p.p.s For those curious why I might park the bike in front of the garage door, that is actually the REAR
door - I have a pass-through garage with a double door at the front and single at the rear.