Triumphrat

ian speed · 10-28-2012, 07:15 PM

I'm might have to buy a Honda if I can't figure this out. Here is what I have done. The bike won't start. Battery is new and strong, I changed all plugs and confirmed spark from each coil. I changed the fuel filter inside the tank and changed the fuel conectors ( they were gummy and old), confirmed there is fuel in the lines at pressure. Yes the ignition is on, yes there is fuel, yes the clutch is in. So my next steps are to confirm the clutch safety switch is operatinal, as well as the kickstand switch. Then what? All fuses are good. I have done the easy stuff - what next.

DEcosse · 10-28-2012, 09:09 PM

Does it crank, just not fire?
Clutch switch only inhibits starter solenoid, not actual ignition or running
Do you hear the pump prime for 3 secs when you first turn on ignition?
Is neutral light illuminated? If so side stand switch is irrelevant
If you disconnect top (return) hose and place in a jar does fuel flow when you turn on ignition?

ian speed · 10-29-2012, 12:55 AM

Yes it cranks. It cranks endlessly. I realized it would not be the clutch switch after I wrote the post as the clutch switch only cuts out the starter. Nuetral light comes on. The fuel pump runs with lots of pressure. If I disconnect the return hose it will pump fuel out with lots of pressure. I should have used a jar. The lines are clear as I blew air through them in both directions with no blockage. I have checked the throttle linkage - all is good. I have tried to start with kickstand up. I even tried to bump start. I'm thinking some sort of electrical computer thing that I can not test for.

ian speed · 10-29-2012, 11:47 PM

Ok tonight I replaced the o rings on the fuel lines as they were worn and I noticed a slight leak - problem solved there. I made sure the long line went on the top fuel connector and the short one on the bottom fuel connector. Fuel pressure is good. I checked the kickstand switch with a meter and it is working fine. Cranked it over many times and it still won't start. Fuel is new, fresh and when I had the tank apart to change the filter i cleaned it out. I am stumped.

FoothillRyder · 10-30-2012, 12:48 AM

Might be worth re-flashing the map? If the timing is messed up (and it seems you've checked everything else) it could not be firing either the injectors or the spark (or both) at the right time.

Just a shot in the dark; but ....

DEcosse · 10-30-2012, 05:28 AM

Once more - if neutral is indicated, side-stand switch is irrelevant.

Check to see that you get +12V at the coils & injectors:
Coils get +12V on purple/white from Fuel Pump Relay and will only be 'hot' for initial 3 secs after ignition on, then again when cranking; Injectors get +12V on Brown/Pink from ECM relay and should be 'hot' with ignition power

It simply comes down to fuel or spark:

Have you pulled a coil to see if you are getting spark? (edit - see you checked that in post 1)
If so, it has to be fuel - if not, check crank position sensor.
If you get 12V at coils & pump during initial 3 secs but do NOT get it while cranking, I would suspect the CPS

So if it is sparking, not the CPS - and you need to revisit fuel
Try spraying starter fluid down the TBs and see if you get it at least fire - that will confirm a fuel issue.

You say pressure is 'good', but have you checked actual pressure?

When was last time the bike ran?

ian speed · 11-06-2012, 12:15 AM

I will check those points that you have made. Should have time later in the week. The bike ran a few weeks ago. I live in British columbia, rode to Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina/ Tennassee border. Then rode to Toronto and had it shipped back to BC. Upon its return it would not start. I have ordered an OBD2 cable to reflash the map. It is something I should do anyway as I have an aftermarket pipe and it has never been calibrated for it. The cable will take a week to get here. So I'll measure the points you suggested, remap and see what happens.

DEcosse · 11-06-2012, 12:44 AM

There should be no reason to re flash Map - best not to introduce additional variables

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ian speed · 11-09-2012, 09:42 PM

Ok, I have had some time to do some more trouble shooting. The CPS registers 510 ohms but it was measured at 0 celcius so I think that is ok. Each of the three coils show 12 volts directly after the key is turned on for a few seconds and then drop. However the injectors are only showing 4.4 volts. The fuel pump shows 12 volts as well. I have not measured the pump for pressure as I don't know how but I can tell you it shoots gas half way accross the shop when turned on. I must say that between yourself and the other previous conversatios in this forum they have turned me into someone on a mission determined to avoid the delaer for service. I have had the tank and fittings and all the electrics apart so many times now I can do it in my sleep. The fear is gone. Thanks. Given the new info what are your thoughts.
IAn

DEcosse · 11-10-2012, 03:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ian speed

... However the injectors are only showing 4.4 volts. The fuel pump shows 12 volts as well.

Is that on the supply voltage side of injectors (the common Brown/Pink wires to each) or the drive?
The Brown/Pink should be 12V with ignition on (does not turn off with the 'prime' after 3 secs) - that comes from the ECM Power Relay.

The Fuel Pump power is common to the Ignition Coils (not the injectors) and only for the initial 3 secs (unless cranking)

If indeed you are measuring on the Brown/Pink (you can also find the unused CA-only purge valve connector to measure it there) and is only 4.4V, then you have problem with the ECM Relay

Quote:

... I have not measured the pump for pressure as I don't know how but I can tell you it shoots gas half way accross the shop when turned on. ...

That sounds like you are probably good on the pump side of things