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Speed Triple Forum Rants and ravings about the best naked triple on the planet!

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Old 11-01-2012, 09:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Been a week now since the stator was put in and it's still starting up fine. Turns over about 5 or 6 times before it fires up though (even when engine is warm). Not sure if that's normal. Liquid gasket is holding up perfectly. No leaks from what I can tell.

I'm having a new problem now. When I crack on the throttle at around 4-6k rpm I can hear a very distinct "crackle" coming from the front of the bike. It only happens when I'm driving though. If I test it while parked, everything sounds fine.

Sidenote: Does anyone else use "Royal Purple" 10/40?
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:14 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kippernicus View Post
Been a week now since the stator was put in and it's still starting up fine. Turns over about 5 or 6 times before it fires up though (even when engine is warm). Not sure if that's normal. Liquid gasket is holding up perfectly. No leaks from what I can tell.

I'm having a new problem now. When I crack on the throttle at around 4-6k rpm I can hear a very distinct "crackle" coming from the front of the bike. It only happens when I'm driving though. If I test it while parked, everything sounds fine.

Sidenote: Does anyone else use "Royal Purple" 10/40?
1. Consider keeping the bike on a batterytender. Lots of starts pull the battery down and insufficient road time means the charge doesn't get put back. Keeping it charged up means solid power to the starter and related gears (avoiding sprag clutch damage), and the battery lives a lot longer because it's not sacrificing its guts to keep the volts up.

2. "Crackle" roll-on may be detonation. Make sure you're using Premium fuel and the LATEST '08 map (find on TuneECU site, or have a dealer do it). The earlier '08 maps have too much ignition advance (or too little fuel) and mine detonated like crazy until I downloaded the newest map. Day/night difference. Might help a quicker start, but don't know.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:02 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ilovheros View Post
http://signaldynamics.com/index.php/...eyword=voltage Anyone order one of these? ...
... Anything better in the market I would like to know.....
This is the one I recommend in the Sticky thread and use personally on both my bikes -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-LED-Ba...item23093fd67d

Comes in three LED sizes, I prefer the smallest one myself.
There are pics of it installed in the sticky thread. Great little device and fabulous service - quick low-cost shipping from UK, you'll still be way ahead in cost vs the SC unit - and is tiny also vs that big control box on the SD unit!!
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:02 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Thanks D. Missed that too. That is the one I will get.

Last edited by ilovheros; 11-02-2012 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Allright, installed my new Shorai 18 battery today. Bike started right up, like a champ. 50* here in Cinci. Checked the battery with the motor not running. Had 13.42. Started it and got 13.65 at idle. Revved to 3-4 and it ran up to 14.08. Went for a 1/2hr ride. Tested again, 13.49 off, key on only, 13.12, idle 13.65, with revs 14.35 constant. Strator is good and so is my old R/R it seems. Question? Should I still change the R/R to the upgraded unit that I bought? I think It would be good ins. but I could just order the Monitor that D recommended and watch things.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Put in the updated R/R. The lil light doesn't tell you exactly when the R/R will fail.

Also have you thought about putting in heavier gauge wires for the battery to starter and ground? I did this and it makes a world of difference to the starting of my bike.

I believe DeCosse has a how to sticky...
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Last edited by mnhoulden; 11-02-2012 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:32 AM   #37 (permalink)
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I bought the plug and play Triumph cable for $8.50 but don''t have it yet. Can I still wire direct to the battery along with the New cable? I have not removed the tank to look at the R/R wiring yet.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:49 PM   #38 (permalink)
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If you are getting the plug n play cable, just use as-is and plug in as intended.
You would have to rework the Triumph cable in order to connect direct to battery - I've seen more issues caused by inadequate techniques in execution of that than are intended to fix, with this high current circuit.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:18 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
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1. Consider keeping the bike on a batterytender.

2. "Crackle" roll-on may be detonation.
I was really hoping that it was a mapping error. I'll have to get it into a shop soon. Thanks Equito.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:49 AM   #40 (permalink)
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From everything I have read, replace the RR with MOSFET type as first order of things to do. As stated there is no way to tell when the original one goes and when it does, it will put a huge load on the stator and possibly take it out.
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