Mobil 1 15/50 or Factory/Dealership???

[TommyV]

I belong to another list with multiple engineers, including an oil company analyst. They all say the same thing, synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral based, always use a motorcycle specific oil in a wet clutch environment. It won't matter in the Ducati because of the dry clutch. The single difference between motorcycle specific oils and motor oil is that MC oil has no friction modifiers in it which will cause clutch slippage. All the rest about higher phosphorous levels and so on is a bunch of BS.

Tommy

[Timbo]

I thought that triumph recommends mobil oil?

TommyV is pretty correct in terms of additives.

Alot of bike manufacturers "suggest" that customers should use their branded oils in the same sense of using original replacement parts on the bikes. Some of it is pretty accurate, some are pretty lame which means that you get what you deem best for the situation that you are in. IE, Honda recommends Honda Oil, triumph (over here) suggests mobil, harley and harley oil, suzuki and Motul etc..

The other story is that for most bikes, the engine tends to share the same oil for the clutch plates and engine. Whislt car engines use differnt oils for the engine and drive and transmission. Hense bike oil is different from Car oil.

Then there is the argument for sythetic and mineral oils....

I've known guys that look after their bikes to the extent that they change the engine oil after every 3 to 4,000 kms. I've known other guys that fill their bike with whatever they get their hands on. I've known people to change their oil with every season to what is best suited.....

Being a newbie here, I'm sure that there must be a thread on this already.

Am I rambling on?

[wills]

Use Mobil 1 for motorcycles. I get it at Wal Mart for $7.36 a quart.

[kuhlka]

Hehe, I found the big jugs of 15/50 synthetic a month ago and bought em out. I've been using 15/50 'red cap' in my bike since my second oil change at 3,000 miles and haven't had any noticeable issues with the clutch.

MCN has done numerous articles on this topic and they've even said that motorcycle labeled oil is just rebadged automotive oil. Also, avoid Fram oil filters and spend the money you saved on the oil on good quality filters. I go with the K&N because it has the nut welded on it to make removal easier and the construction is top notch.

[Legman]

I thought we weren't gonna allow any more 'what oil is best?" threads, or "what is the best break in method?" threads. They get lots of action and at the end we are all none the wiser.

[Geof3]

Oh man... which is worse, the oil thread, the tire thread, or the K&N filter thread... :hammer:

Anyway, to the guys with the new S3's. We just spent 10 large on a sweet new bike and there is a quibble over $50 for the most important fluid in the ride? I'm always amazed to see what some are willing to skimp on, when things are not so fully clear. The notion "I've used xyz oil for years, therefore it is ok" is bunk... If the recommended oil is the Mobil1 race oil, I'm there. And even the non-triumph labled M1 race spec oil is 45.00 a gallon.

I'm hard pressed to believe (call me gullible if you like) that only one motor oil gets a bunch of different lables in various weights. Coming from the 911 world where the car has 3 GALLONS of oil, 50 bucks every 7k is no big deal. And even if the "high dollar" stuff is only a tiny bit better, then hey... good for me...

[triumphrdr]

Well, I used Mobil 1 in my BMW's my Expedition for 133,000 mi. I'm sticking with the Mobil 1. If my clutch goes out, I'll buy another. "and switch oils" Even though this is an old subject I do appreciate the replys. Thanks Jon Austin Tx

[Legman]

hey Geof3,

The worst is the "break in" thread......my personal favorite....Not!

[Speed3]

I saw this on another site after a long and tiresome debate...

DIE THREAD, DIE!!!!! :hammer:

[Pig9r]

The main difference between motorcycle oil and auto oil is that auto oil contains molybdenum. Oil company's claim that moly will break down a wet clutch over time.

The problem with using dino oil is that in most modern motorcycles the gearbox also shares the engine oil. Multi-grade dino oil will break down much quicker in a tranny than synthetic.

Also in modern automotive oil many of the anti-wear agents have been eliminated because they speed the deterioration of the catalysts in the exhaust systems catalytic converters. However as more motorcycles have converters to meet tougher emissions laws this many not be an issue.

I look at oil this way. It is sort of like insurance coverage. Your agent many recommend a certain amount of coverage, your wallet recommends another lesser amount. Either way you're covered. But later on down the road will you regret not spending the extra dough?

I always follow the manufacturer's recommendations. No worries about wear and no worries about factory warranty claims. Rarely do I change the oil more than once or twice a riding season, and it doesn't hold that much oil, so the savings is not that substantial to me.