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Speed Triple Forum Rants and ravings about the best naked triple on the planet!

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Old 09-01-2012, 11:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Throttle Body - Cylinder 2 Off by 90

2011 Speed Triple w/ABS
1200 Miles

Cylinder 1 - 680
Cylinder 2 - 590
Cylinder 3 - 680

From Tune ECU.

I had noticed over the last week or so the bike running more rough. Idle was ok, didn't stall or fluctuate but just felt bumpy.

Mods is only an SAI block. With either tune and reset adaptives nothing changed. I think I need to pull the air box and attempt a sync.

Any ideas to cause or advice on sync?

Moogs

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Old 09-02-2012, 02:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would start by ensuring there is no leak or crack or poor fitting (or pinched) hose to #2 from the Map sensor Tee to the TB

Did you have tank off for anything prior to the problem beginning?

I don't see why the synch itself would just go way off like that; so look to sensing hose first
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I did have the gas tank off but not the airbox. The only way to pinch hose two would be if I had the airbox off right?


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Old 09-02-2012, 04:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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So I popped off the airbox. Looks like each cylinder has its own adjustment:



There were 3 hoses attached to the front of the air box, front errr, the opposite angle of the picture, as if you were sitting on the bike.

Tubes:
1. On the left a smaller tube. Looks like a run off tube
2. the SAI hose
3. Looks like the crankcase breather.

Connectors:
1. There is one connector to the top of the airbox that I don't know what it's for.
2. The left connector is just mounted on the air box with a small tube. Still connected. MAP sensor?
3. Is the SAI just above the SAI hose
4. A rather large module. About 3" x 3" but is still connected. Looks to have been mounted on the box.

Questions:
1. Do I need any of these attached to run the bike and adjust the TB?
2. Where can I buy a 2011/12 full service manual?
3. How best to get the air box back onto the throttle bodies? It was a snug fit. Can I use a little WD?

Seed
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Last edited by Moogs; 09-02-2012 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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One on top should be the air temp sensor - should be connected ideally (screw it out & plug it in)
You can leave SAI disconnected (the solenoid is at front of the box - it will throw an MIL but you can clear it once you're done.)

You maybe haven't retested yet - are you getting same readings now with tank & airbox off?
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
One on top should be the air temp sensor - should be connected ideally (screw it out & plug it in)
You can leave SAI disconnected (the solenoid is at front of the box - it will throw an MIL but you can clear it once you're done.)

You maybe haven't retested yet - are you getting same readings now with tank & airbox off?
Haven't tested yet. Wanted to make sure that I can run the bike.

The gas tank is all plugged in just elevated.
Battery is hooked up.
I guess I'll plug the box in with the top connector and hang it on the side then I should be good to go right?

Thanks Decosse. I'll be sure to do a write up later.

Was I incorrect in my understanding that previous S3s had only 2 TB adjustors and the 2nd bore was static? The goal was to adjust the other 2 to sync to the 2nd?

From what I see there are 3 adjustors in this bike.

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Old 09-02-2012, 06:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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All the Keihins ECM bikes have three - even the last gen 955 had three;
earlier bikes had 2 balance screws on the linkage.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
All the Keihins ECM bikes have three - even the last gen 955 had three;
earlier bikes had 2 balance screws on the linkage.
Thanks for the clarification.

I'm on the bike now first checking the TPS voltage per this doc:

If that checks out I'll fire her up and see if I can adjust the throttle bodies. This is the best Sunday ever. Not being sarcastic.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You should start it before you adjust anything - be interesting to see if you get same readings per cylinder now everything is removed
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Mine was off about like that straight from the factory. Can't remember if it was cylinder 2 or not. Synced at the 1000 mile oil change, felt a lot smoother at idle / low revs. But by the next oil change it was off again; didn't adjust this time because of all the work involved pulling the airbox. By 5k miles it's feeling kinda stuttery at low revs.

Mine also won't idle at the spec speed, it only balanced idling a little high - looks like Moogs's is doing the same. My SAI is still stock. Decosse, does this sound like a vacuum leak to you?
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