Looking for some input from you guys with newer speedy's 2011+. I have a 2011 with, from my point of view, some issues with the front breaks. I began notice a slight stuttering coming from the front end when breaking hard, my first thought was that as some other users have reported, warped rotors/discs. The stuttering became worse during a trackday as the discs heated up.
Took the bike to the dealership to have it checked out and to get my cracked lenses changed. According to the mechanic, they have measured the discs (which are straight according to the mechanic) and changed the pads. While the stuttering have gotten better it is still there.
Now, the response I got from the mechanic was that the vibrations that they could feel after they changed the pads was normal, and they couldnt really do more about it.
The strange things is that, before the pads were changed the stuttering could be felt throughout breaking, getting worse as more pressure was applied to the breaks, now after the pad change the stuttering is there initially when breaking but gets less noticeable as more pressure is applied.
I'm interested to hear your experience with the speedy front breaks, some slight stuttering normal? I'm coming from a Yamaha FZ1-N and maybe I've been lucky but that thing was smooth as silk during breaking.
My '11 with about 3500 miles is doing it. I noticed it started after riding hard on the Pigs tail in Arkansas. Really the only time I feel it is the last little bit coming up to a complete stop. it's annoying. I might have the dealer take a look as it's still under warranty.
I also came off an FZ1, and those brakes were pretty amazing. I abused them to no end and they were always smooth as silk.
There have been some with warped rotors, seemed like a bad batch from the manufacturer. Though if they measured them this may not be the issue, what were the measurements they got?
Also, any chance it could be the steering head bearings?
:When I was at the dealer test riding a 2009 speedie the owner said it would get new rotors when it was sold. I asked if the rotors were warped and he said no.He said the rotors had a surface issue.Some spots were harder/softer than others.He said they were pulsing but in a different way. I didn't notice anything but I wasn't on it long.
Had mine disc checked in the dealer and they were completely fine 0.3 and 0.5 apparently if they are over 1.3 then they are warped. They reckon it was because my front tire tread is low but how can it be?
My front end "rumbles" a bit under braking when the front tyre is used up.
The tyre "cups" and the tread becomes uneven at the end of its life , under braking the the uneven portions of the tread are exaggerated as the contact patch deforms .
When I feel the rumble I know a new front tyre is in order .
Well, changing the front tyre did nothing. It's back to the dealer. Going nuts, bought a brand new bike just so that I didn't have to deal with crap like this.
Oh well, fingers crossed that they will find something this time.
Not personally, but the pads were changed, and the discs measured last time it was in the shop. It was returned with the vibrations still there and the comment that it was normal. After reading about the warped discs/rotors i'm starting to suspect that either the discs are warped or that there are patches of different friction on the discs.
Had another mechanic ride it (unfortunately he doesn't service triumph's, go figure) and according to him I am not imagining things =). Hopefully triumph can find out what's wrong this time around
Yea or the buttons are dirty. You can change pads and tires all day, but that isn't going to allow the rotors to move and float like they are designed to.
I pulled my pads out, scuffed up the rotors and pads, and so far the pulsing is gone. My guess is it will return, but it was a five minute exercise, so no loss.
Yes, I actually used a coarse "Scotch Brite" pad for the rotors and sandpaper lying flat on the floor for the pads.
My bike does not have ABS, definately not the head bearings. As mentioned before, it is a pulsing that only happens at slower speeds. Mine is gone for now, but I bet it comes back. I have about 4,000 miles on mine, bought new in March of this year. I'm not too worried about it though.
Thanks for the tips guys. I cleaned the discs, and made sure the buttons were clean and the disc could float properly. The bike have done 7000km (4300miles). My problem differs from Kafn8td, no noticable pulsing on low speed, but during breaking from moderate to high speed its definetly there.
Did a test at around 55mph, applied a small amount of pressure on the front break while maintaing the speed, and the "wings" of the fly screen is flexing a good 8-10mm due to the pulsing. That cant be right?
Unfortunately not, the bike is in a shared garage, no room for any mechanical work. I had the bike at the dealer about 2 weeks ago for the same problem, they told me that they had measured the discs and that they were ok. Oddly enough, they also stated that the pulsing they could feel was normal... Starting to wonder if they actually measured them or not. Might also be dodgy material with different friction on different parts of the disc. Bike is going back monday next week again. We'll see what happens.
Stuff like this can be a bit discouraging, hopefully it will get sorted.
If the rotors are warped wouldn't that show up in the brake handle pulsing? If there's no pulsing in the brake handle but you can feel a juttering then I think it would be something else.Possibly the rotor surface is stickier in places causing the bike to slow down unevenly.
One poster has scuffed up his rotors and claims it's good now.I think that would indicate a surface problem. The brake material may be getting deposited on rough parts of the rotor making that part a bit slipperier that would translate into inconsistent braking ( juttering).By scuffing the rotor that may remove some of the embedded pad material allowing for better braking. I'm not an exkspurt I'm just throwing out ideas.
It might be worthwhile to scuff the rotors to verify this.Would it be safe to use a wire brush in a drill?
This can happen if you don't properly bed the brakes in initially, or after a nice long stop from high speed(hwy off ramp etc) often hold the heated brakes clamped..
had the same experiance on a 2008 rsv100r,sunlite disc fitted as standard,bought new rotors set same make problem came back again 2 k later.aprilia exchanged these for brembo no problems.
check the run out of rotor circumference(90 degrees to brake pads)
hope this helps
Just a quick update, bike is at the dealership now, and they got a new head mechanic. He immediately recognized the issue as a faulty steering bearing. Fingers crossed this time.
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