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Speed Triple Forum Rants and ravings about the best naked triple on the planet!

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Old 08-21-2012, 05:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks Equito - I have reset the adaptives a bunch of times, which seems to fix the problem, but then it comes back about a day or two later. The guys at MCC in Villa Park, IL have it back and are trying to figure out whats going on. Its troubling since they have already replaced the TPS and the stepper motor, which cost me $700 including labor. Im beginning to think I didn't need those replaced at all.


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You can read about my experience here: http://www.thespeedtriple.com/forum/...most-stop.html

Not to say my cause is your cause, but it's another data point for you.
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killcity View Post
Thanks Equito - I have reset the adaptives a bunch of times, which seems to fix the problem, but then it comes back about a day or two later. The guys at MCC in Villa Park, IL have it back and are trying to figure out whats going on. Its troubling since they have already replaced the TPS and the stepper motor, which cost me $700 including labor. Im beginning to think I didn't need those replaced at all.
They replaced the TPS, but did they set it properly to spec? It should be .60 (driven closed by the software) and .75 (driven open by the software). Mine was off from the factory by .04. Setting it to spec, resetting adaptives (to the extent possible w/o 02 sensor in place), and raising the idle to 1200 is what fixed mine.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I passed this information on to them. If a simple spec setting is all it takes, Im going to demand my money back for the parts they didn't need to replace ( they are good guys, so im sure in the end everything will be taken care of ).

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Equito View Post
They replaced the TPS, but did they set it properly to spec? It should be .60 (driven closed by the software) and .75 (driven open by the software). Mine was off from the factory by .04. Setting it to spec, resetting adaptives (to the extent possible w/o 02 sensor in place), and raising the idle to 1200 is what fixed mine.
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killcity View Post
I passed this information on to them. If a simple spec setting is all it takes, Im going to demand my money back for the parts they didn't need to replace ( they are good guys, so im sure in the end everything will be taken care of ).

Thanks!
Good luck. FYI, on my '08 (assume it's the same as yours), resetting the TPS (using the software to confirm setting) involves loosening the TPS bolts (Torx Security #20, on mine), placing, and retightening. The LEFT side Torx bolt is exposed for access. When I did mine, I loosened ONLY the left bolt and adjusted the TPS by raising/lowering the left side until it was right, tightened down the left bolt, and verified the setting hadn't changed (opened and closed).

I did not need to access the RIGHT side bolt to adjust mine a small amount (should be all it takes), but your situation may be different. On my '08, the RIGHT side bolt is inaccessible behind the frame spar. There may be a 90 degree driver the shop can fit in there from the top (after removing the airbox), but I've read an easier way to reach the RIGHT side TPS bolt is simply to remove the airbox, then loosen/lift the throttle bodies to the TPS is accessible, change the setting, tighten, verify, and close it up (I'd verify when it was all back together, but today's bike shops don't have that kind of time).

Again, good luck and I hope they get it set or fixed for you.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks so much for this info - I will send this their way tomorrow! I had no idea it was a hardware setting. Very interesting. I wonder what wouldve thrown off the TPS in the first place?

Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Equito View Post
Good luck. FYI, on my '08 (assume it's the same as yours), resetting the TPS (using the software to confirm setting) involves loosening the TPS bolts (Torx Security #20, on mine), placing, and retightening. The LEFT side Torx bolt is exposed for access. When I did mine, I loosened ONLY the left bolt and adjusted the TPS by raising/lowering the left side until it was right, tightened down the left bolt, and verified the setting hadn't changed (opened and closed).

I did not need to access the RIGHT side bolt to adjust mine a small amount (should be all it takes), but your situation may be different. On my '08, the RIGHT side bolt is inaccessible behind the frame spar. There may be a 90 degree driver the shop can fit in there from the top (after removing the airbox), but I've read an easier way to reach the RIGHT side TPS bolt is simply to remove the airbox, then loosen/lift the throttle bodies to the TPS is accessible, change the setting, tighten, verify, and close it up (I'd verify when it was all back together, but today's bike shops don't have that kind of time).

Again, good luck and I hope they get it set or fixed for you.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killcity View Post
Thanks so much for this info - I will send this their way tomorrow! I had no idea it was a hardware setting. Very interesting. I wonder what wouldve thrown off the TPS in the first place?

Thanks again!
I know mine was off from the factory. It's a very fine setting and there's no way to set it perfectly unless you spend a little time, unless you get lucky. These things are moving down an assembly line, so maybe some bikes get rushed.

This assumes that's your problem. The fact that they replaced the TPS and stepper motor (the motor that drives the throttle open and closed to achieve the setting) suggests it's a possibility.

They should be able to show you on their software what your TPS setting is once they're supposedly done (while the bike's still hooked up, etc.). That would allow you to rule out TPS adjustment as a cause, in any event.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:44 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You might try looking at the wiring loom comming back from the right side of the headstock. Mine had an open wire which caused the same symptoms. We ended up splicing and soldering a piece of the same gauge wire in the loom. It was under the bracket that secures the loom on the headstock.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Funny you mention that - I had that part wear away and expose bare wires, leaving the bike stranded at one point. AFter that I fixed it with some electrical tape and also taped over the metal piece that holds them in place.

Very strange that an exposed wire could cause a problem like that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Major Kong View Post
You might try looking at the wiring loom comming back from the right side of the headstock. Mine had an open wire which caused the same symptoms. We ended up splicing and soldering a piece of the same gauge wire in the loom. It was under the bracket that secures the loom on the headstock.
Zip
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:16 AM   #19 (permalink)
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So since I got the bike back, due to a family emergency I hadn't been able to test it much. It's now producing the same exact behavior and I'm out $700. I had hoped MCC would've refunded me the money since their attempt to throw parts at it didn't help. They also basically told me there's nothing else they can do for me and have given up.

I'm willing to bet if I run an adaptive reset it will once again run great for a day or two then slowly start back to its crappy idle. I also noticed a deeper note from one of the two cans. Im wondering if some of the baffles might've rusted out causing a different back pressure or something. The bike still pulls well, it's just dropping to 500 rpm when I lay off the throttle, then slowly creeps back up to 1100.

Any ideas?? Thanks





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Old 11-03-2012, 11:46 PM   #20 (permalink)
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What is your throttle body balance?
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