Triumphrat

ELP_JC · 11-02-2005

I'm curious about FINISHES on exhaust systems. Both in maintenance (Staintunes are known to 'yellow', and need constant polishing to look good, at least on BMW K1200RSs, like mine), and in expected life expectancy. I'm particularly worried about carbon, since I've heard on several boards they deteriorate rather rapidly. Don't know if it's the construction quality, or the material itself.
So, what's the order of more desirable finishes, without regard of which one you like best?? Let's consider aluminum, stainless, and carbon.

Finally, which exhaust systems DON'T require repacking? Just list the ones you know, if any. If they require repacking, it's a deal breaker for me.
Do the TORs require repacking?????
Thanks for your opinions gentlemen.

11-17-2005

In past experience with dirtbike mufflers, the ones that require repacking are originally packed with fiberglass. Whenever I repacked one of those, I replaced the glass with wire wool, which if course enough, lasted for the rest of the time I had the bike, several years. It may change the sound slightly though. If your considering a stock type muffler which is a series of chambers, it never needs that. What I have done with my '01 S3 is buy a used stock can off e-bay and cut it open and change the chambers by cutting out a chamber wall to make three chambers into one.
I also just did that with my '05 gsx r1000. The sound is much better.

ELP_JC · 11-17-2005

Interesting approach. Since I'd ditch the stock system anyway, it can't hurt to try; you're right. My only concern is I want it to look like factory, and with the drilling of rivets, hope I don't mess it up. And the better question is how to fit allen screws rather than rivets to put it back; that way it can be opened and closed easily next time if needed.
Thanks again for your reply.
And as far as finish, I think will stick with stainless or aluminum for the exterior.

Wolf · 11-18-2005

Ok, stainless is a great finish but most stainless now is liable to yellow slightly BUT - not if it has good packing - it simply wont get hot enough on the muffler to yellow if the packing used is good quality (though that's quite rare)

Carbon in the main will be effected by heat as it's only rated to 120-180 degrees and may go brown or crack but there are several solutions. The cheaper carbon cans will have these problems. Slightly better quality cans use black coloured resin so that this does not turn brown with heat

Th best carbon, which we use is rated to 450 degrees so will never burn or discolour - as far as I know only Wolf, Termignoni and Akrapovic use this carbon - it's 3X the cost of normal stuff and hard to get hold of...

Titanium is both light and durable as it's inert so will not rust or discolour (unless it goes blue but that's only on GP bikes as no road bike gets hot enough) - but the finish is a ***** to clean as it shows every finger print etc...

The best packing is a ceramic called silent sport, but not loose - it must be woven in to long fibres in a sheet - that way it does not blow out and it will not burn like conventional E glass. Wolf use this but I don't know who else does - again it's a lot more expensive so only a few people use it.

All in all if you buy a good quality muffler from someone who makes quality rather than trading on a name you will not get yellow stainless or burnt carbon.

Raynewb · 11-18-2005

Scorpion claim that their cans for 05 S3:
* Life time garantee
*Never need repacking (ceramic packing used)
*stainless is top quality
*Tested with/without baffles and need no remapping
*If you drop the bike and damage the can they will replace it at half the cost.

Maybe thats why I bought the Scorpion oval stainless at the Bike show (NEC)
Ray

HarriS · 11-19-2005

Quote:

On 2005-11-18 03:38, Wolf wrote:
Th best carbon, which we use is rated to 450 degrees so will never burn or discolour - as far as I know only Wolf, Termignoni and Akrapovic use this carbon - it's 3X the cost of normal stuff and hard to get hold of...

That must be the resin then because the carbon fiber itself can be heated red hot without defect.

The low cost solution for repacking is ordinary fibreglass mat from some boat shop. I just rip it to convinient pieces and stuff it fairlu tight. Lasts many many years and I have never seen the need for repack after that.

TrackerOldGuy · 11-19-2005

I anticipate buying Wolf cans soon. I am also thinking of
ceramic coating for the header pipes such as Jet-Hot.
Does anyone have any experiance with a combination like this? Suggest re-map? problems with oxygen sensor?

Regards to all, Bill